Southern Spain recommendations

Travel, Wine Tourism, and Restaurants Forum
21

When and how long will you be in Granada?

22

Just two days, the 9-10 of September. My wife really wants to see the Alhambra.

23

Ken - if you have a chance, go visit Nola and Juan. You will be happy you did!

24

We have the opportunity to remotely work for May.

Loved San Sebastian last year (Stayed 15min walk from the beach, but was still quite), so would like to go south in Spain this time.

Things we like: Food is our big thing. Followed by wine, a good view, long walk in pretty nature.

Avoid: Homebase without Wifi or fairly loud or super touristy. Restaurants that don’t dairy free.

Questions:

  • Transport - Coming from NYC or DC and want to go direct - Madrid best?
  • Home base - Not sure! Could stay in one place and do trips out or split the time (don’t want to do more than 1 major move).
  • Beach or Mountain town? Leaning beach? Love the mountains, but don’t want home base to require a hike every time we leave home. Seems like water will be warm enough?
  • Best way to get from Madrid to X? Do we do it in one shot or take a couple days in Madrid or is there somewhere on the way down to spend a day or x?
  • Not sure next time we’ll be back this ways, worth working the Canaries in or is that too much hassle?
    Tagging @Nola_Palomar and @Ethan_A since I saw y’all had posted pretty recently

Have read through these and found them helpful, but curious for other/more current thoughts:

25

Why beach or mountain and not city?

Best food in cities. For a full month in May, I’d lean to Seville ( or Granada) due to climate. But for food only, San Sebastián.

Haven’t had much beach experience in Spain in the south, but lots of high rises right next to the beach.

Only you can answer whether you want to go direct from Madrid or not. Plenty to see in and around Madrid, plenty to see in Andalusia.

1 Like
26

Thanks Barry. Perhaps, I could have more accurately said city/town in mountains or by beach.

We’re set on the south so San Sebastian is out. Went there last year and loved!

27

Hey Gavin, thanks for tagging me.

  • Transport - Coming from NYC or DC and want to go direct - Madrid best?

Since you’re going to be there for a month, yes. Arrive get a good nap then go have tapas, have a good night of sleep. The next morning get a car and go in the direction of Segovia on the way stop and see El Escorial head on up to Segovia and see the castle ( one of my favorites as it is where Queen Isabela was actually crowned and lived there), cathedral and Roman aqueduct. Have lunch at Casa Duque. The head to Avila a beautiful walled city. Head back to Madrid.

Day 2: I would do Madrid and see the Royal Palace, get a guide as there is so much to take in. See the Prado and other Madrid sites.

Day 3: Depart Madrid in direction of Toledo. Do a quick visit to Toledo Toledo Cathedral, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture, and the Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes, a beautiful Isabelline-style monastery. Don’t miss the Mosque of Cristo de la Luz, a former mosque now a chapel, or the Synagogue of El Tránsito, a testament to Toledo’s Jewish heritage. Then head to Cordoba. Have lunch in Cordoba and head towards Jaen and Granada. Stay in Granada at either the Parador or El Hotel Alhambra Palace.

Day4: Spend a full day in Granada. To get tickets to the Alhambra visit by this website — like soon. Official Granada Card incl. Alhambra: 48 - 72 hrs

It is will get you entrance to the Alhambra & Nazari Palaces and entrance to numerous sites and several bus rides to get you where you want to go.

Day 5: I have a bias to go towards the sea and relax. I would recommend to head to Almeria and then do the route thru the desert where the spaghetti westerns were all filmed.

Hotels in Almeria are modestly priced and I can give you a plethora of great places to dine.

From Almeria you can go west towards Malaga → Marbella → and eventually head up to Sevilla or you could travel east and go to Murcia → Valencia

Timing from Madrid to Almeria it is 5 1/2 hours driving straight through same. Almeria to Malaga is about 3 hours and the same heading east to Murcia.

  • Home base - Not sure! Could stay in one place and do trips out or split the time (don’t want to do more than 1 major move).

Again I have a bias because I know Almeria, but you’re going to get a good rate on lodging. There is train, buses, airport and daily Ferry’s to Melilla for 50-75€.

  • Beach or Mountain town? Leaning beach? Love the mountains, but don’t want home base to require a hike every time we leave home. Seems like water will be warm enough?

There is a small resort town just west of Almeria called Aguadulce. You may be able to get an AirB&B there very close to the beach. I know a lot of people in a Almeria and Aguadulce and they are some of the kindest in Spain.

I would go for beach too.

You won’t find too many people “in” the water in early May because the Mediterranean is pretty cold. You’ll have plenty of people soaking up sun, and food and wines…

  • Best way to get from Madrid to X? Do we do it in one shot or take a couple days in Madrid or is there somewhere on the way down to spend a day or x?

Explained above

  • Not sure next time we’ll be back this ways, worth working the Canaries in or is that too much hassle?

I have not been to the Canaries but everywhere I have been in Spain has left me with an indelible mark of appreciation, love and passion.

1 Like
28

I have Frigiliana and Sedella as little towns I want to visit near the ocean, south of Granada. Think because of the Moors and other groups before them, I find the best towns are little mountain towns and not right on the ocean. Other places I have marked are, Zahara de la Sierra, Olvera, Ruins of Acinipo, Setenil de las Bodegas, and Ronda. Seville looks gorgeous too.

1 Like
29

If you travel west down the costal highway you’ll come across all those little towns.
A day trip (or longer) from the coast north will take you to the Alpujarra. This is a region on the south facing Sierra Nevada that has around 50 little white villages in the province of Granada and I believe around 22 in the province of Almeria. The Alpujarra is considered to be the jewel of Spain. Life runs slow and manaña is the way of life. The people are farmers and industrious by nature. They solve problems the old way and most bills are tallied mentally. The villagers are very interesting carrying on folkloric customs and they party hearty. On the surface you see these harmonious tiny villages, but they also have their deep seated Hierarchy that is completely obscure from typical tourists. It is an absolute must for your trip. I can give you more detailed info if you want on which villages are the must sees.

As far as Sevilla…. From Malaga you can go directly northwest to Sevilla or take the long route, via Gibraltar then north towards Jerez de la Frontera then on to Seville. The Féria de abril is May 5th to 11th. Get your reservations now.
In Sevilla if you have the funds to splurge, stay at the Hotel Alfonzo XIII… it is an exquisite stay. If not the stay go have a gin and tonic in the central patio. See all the sites. I am a bullfight affecinada. There will be bullfights in several cities as in Spain they start after the Easter Holy Week.

Having said this you could travel from Toledo-> Cordoba → Sevilla and just do it all backwards….

Juan had a term that I still use today “Flexiplan”.

2 Likes
30

The folklore in those little villages is amazing. In Juan’s village (my adopted village) Ugijar is the Patroness Saint the Virgin of Martirio. A legend recounts how the statue was desecrated during a Morisco uprising, eventually being saved and hidden in a well, which then miraculously lit up, with the statue allegedly stating, “I am called Martirio”. During the last day of the Feria of Ugijar in October, She placed on a litter and is adorned with flowers and candles and proceeds the procession. It is an interesting, emotional, religious and festive experience. The rockets and fireworks are incredible.

2 Likes
31

We visited in December 2024 - if you have any specific questions just ping me.

A few recommendations:
Seville -
HOTEL: we did NOT stay at Alfonso XIII but chose a smaller place with a deck overlooking the gardens of the Alcazar - Legado Alcazar Hotel - downside no restaurant or bar - upside, large room with balcony overlooking the gardens and very convenient to the Alcazar entrance https://legadoalcazarhotel.com/en/hotel-in-seville-legado-alcazar-hotel/. We did go over to the Alfonso bar for some afternoon sherry.
MEALS:
JESTERS CAFE - great place for breakfast on the go - some outdoor tables
ESLAVA - very good tapas - need reservations - open on Sunday
BAR CASTIZO - the best croquettes (jalapeno)
AL WADI - excellent and inexpensive middle eastern food (skip the Baklava)
SITES:
Cathedral - wow - almost too much. But can’t miss.
Alcazar - glad we did Seville first as after Cordoba and Granada this would have been a let down.

Cordoba -
HOTEL: Hospes Palacio Bailio - huge room, friendly staff, limited dinner, very quiet bar, nice breakfast buffet. Disappointed in the spa - walking down a staircase into a dungeon like setting to get to the pools and it wasn’t working when we were there so had about 10 minutes of cold tub Hospes Palacio del Bailío | Hospes Hotels
MEALS:
NOOR - do not miss - we went for lunch - very small - just awarded its 3rd Michelin star - a tour of Andalusia through food.
SITES:
MOSQUE - we did the night tour first (highly recommend) and then went back in the day to wander on our own. Maybe my favorite site we saw on the trip. DO NOT MISS.

Grenada - choose a smaller hotel as we wanted to be in the old town - very nice hotel at Casa 1800 (they have a sister hotel in Seville) - lots of charm and a terrace with views of the Alhambra - quaint period decorations and a nice breakfast and afternoon snack.Hotel Casa 1800 Granada - Official website
MEALS:
Farala - went for lunch. Great experience - seemed busy with locals. Our best meal in Granada. https://restaurantefarala.com/
TEA - we really enjoyed tea and an afternoon snack in the Albaycin in a middle eastern tea shop - we went to Teteria Nazari
SITES:
Alhambra - a must - book in advance. It was closed at night when we were there in December - if it’s open, I heard the night visit is wonderful.
Capilla Real - to see Isabella and Ferdinands resting place - no photos allowed inside the church

Our last stop was Madrid. We did the trains throughout - very easy - used trainline and easy to make changes, etc.

2 Likes
32

If going to Granada, which is so worth it if for a visit to Alhambra alone, Taberna La Tana for your geeky Spanish wine fix. Back vintages of LdH and other cool wines, in small and big formats and at very reasonable prices, plus really good tapas.
The place is tiny, gets very crowded and going off-hours would be the way to do it here.

2 Likes
33

Thanks to everyone who has chimed in!

We’re going to Fly over May 6th. Booked.

Cadiz or Jerez de Frontera will be home base. Looking at places to stay now. Almeria was our very close runner up. Next time @Nola_Palomar :slight_smile:

We’re going to follow the "flexiplan’ plan logic and build in some time on the way there or back in Seville, cordoba, and/or Toledo.

34

That is absolutely the best plan!! Relax and enjoy you trip!!
¡¡Buen viaje!!

1 Like