Some recent wines:
2008 CHAMPAGNE GUY LARMANDIER SIGNE FRANCOIS VIEILLES VIGNES BLANC de BLANC- this was the last bottle of a small purchased last year and it showed fairly consistent notes with those before it having a more feminine profile with mild aromas of mint, licorice and anise accented tangerine and citrus; the taste also included lemon and lime and perhaps a touch of a menthol character; it was graceful and elegant and pleasant throughout; a bit of sweetness showed up at the finish; this is certainly not the powerful, full bodied champagne that prevailed with the 2008 vintage; in fact, it is the anthesis.
The next 2 were poured and drank side by side and although they come from the same producer {who used to be at Krug} and vintage and are made in the same way and come from plots close to each other and 100% Pinot Noir, they were quite different and both really good.
2015 ERIC RODEZ les Beurys AMBONNAY GRAND CRU- 100% Pinot Noir; this comes from a 35 year old averaged aged vineyard with an east exposure; dosed at 3 gpl and aged in small oak barrels, no ML; the hallmark for me was it’s impeccable balance throughout; it was very light and easy on the palate featuring mild, but flavorful notes of white flowers, dried red fruit, mandarine and pear; it had a light frothy mousse, but it was its steady, even keel that stood out the most; lovely bubbly.
2015 ERIC RODEZ les Genettes AMBONNAY GRAND CRU- 100% Pinot Noir; this comes from a vineyard with vines averaging 41 years of age and having a southeast exposure with soils a bit deeper than les Beurys; it was also aged in small oak barrels, without ML and dosed at 3 gpl; it had more fruit than its sibling and at first, was out of balance with the rest of the profile, but in time, it mellowed out and blended in and all was good; in this case, the fruit was more of yellow peach and apricot; after an hour or so, both wines seemed to be very close to each other with just a little more body and flavor in this one, the Genettes.
2007 MOREY-BLANC LES COMBES SAINT-AUBIN 1er Cru- this comes from Pierre Morey who created this small negociant label in the late 1980s and co-named it after his name with that of his wife, Blanc; our bottle had a yellow gold color and the nose of caramel also suggested advanced notes, but it was not oxidized, just oxidative; honeyed apple, lemon and yellow peach joined a streak of minerals that ran all the way through while being delivered in an oily like textured medium.
The following wines were tasted blind:
2019 DOMAINE J.A. FERRET CUVEE HORS CLASSES TOURNANT de POUILLE POUILLY-FUISSE- Blind; light yellow color; it had an inviting nose of some serious notes of minerals, orchard and citrus fruit; the taste profile included fresh lemon, yellow apple, pear, tangerine and more minerality; it had a really soft and smooth texture and finished gracefully; I’m thinking it’s white Burgundy but
.
Some history: Maison Louis Jadot acquired the Domaine J. A. Ferret, one of the historic reference points for the wines of Pouilly-Fuissé, in 2008. Madame Jeanne Ferret was one of Burgundy’s great matriarchs, producing rich, concentrated wines that were harvested late and matured on the lees in oak barrels and many of the wines produced under her tenure, and that of her daughter, are still drinking well today although the style has changed.
2013 MARCASSIN ESTATE SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY- Blind; this was pretty easy as the one who brought it has shared many a Marcassin with another group that we all are a part of and the style and profile was so similar to those before it; it had noticeable oak influence, vanilla and buttered apple and citrus fruit with a hit of toasted hazelnut and a touch of minerals; even the mouthfeel was pretty consistent with previous vintages being oily, creamy like; it was full bodied, had some weight and bordered on being intense. I pocket guessed Marcassin and it turned out, the one who brought it had just received his 2013 purchases, so it probably had some bottle shock and whatever else that a new release and shipping can be affected by.
2005 DOMAINE HENRI GOUGES les VAUCRAINS NUITS-ST-GEORGES 1er Cru- Blind; this just hit all of the right spots from the outset and only got better with time; following its red raspberry color came aromas of vanilla and spice accented red raspberry which prevailed until past mid palate when a nice dollop of red cherry showed up; it was soft and smooth and graceful and simply delightful; I’m thinking it is a red Burg, but I would not have bet on it.
2012 DOMAINE MOILLARD CLOS des CHENES VOLNAY 1er Cru- Blind; initially, the nose was muted as was the taste, but in time, it started to re-group and offer some enticing notes of spicy red raspberry that exceeded the similar profile from the Vaucrains before it; it also was super soft and smooth and richer and more full bodied with loads of finesse and charm; it took an hour after it was first poured before it took on a persona of something extra special and then just held its place; a lovely wine that only could be appreciated after having the time and allowing it to open up after an hour or so.
2013 MARCASSIN ESTATE SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR- Blind; well, I blind guessed the Chardonnay, but did not pick up this one although it was definitely new world and also a profile that challenges my Pinot Noir preferences; it was super fruit forward with talc, sandalwood and vanilla laced red cherry most evident from the nose on; a nice addition of fresh blueberry came in late; the hallmark was its softness not only in the texture, but in its overall demeanor; think of what talc, sandalwood and vanilla contribute to being soft. Once revealed, I’m wondering where this will land when it reaches its apogee; perhaps more elegant, certainly more balanced and perhaps with a darker fruit profile.
2011 DOMAINE SIMON BIZE et FILS les SERPENTIERES SAVIGNY LES BEAUNE 1er Cru- Blind; decanted 1 hour; this was the last of a few bottles I had and all have shown well; I did not identify it; this bottle had a different profile and was not as pleasing in that it had more tannic, astringent issues going on; the fruit was mostly cranberry and red cherry with some underlying earthy notes; it had a smooth mouthfeel and long, but dry finish.
Cheers,
Blake