Soft-Shelled Crabs at Tr. Nostrani

Last night we were at Trattoria Nostrani for another feast of soft-shelled blue crabs. We started with a nice glass of a Loire sparkler, brighter and more forward fruit than a Champagne. it was a pleasant starter. We were informed that the crabs were smaller than last weeks. So I decided to have a three or four course meal of crabs, one crab per course, with a different preparation for each. Nelli was happy to accommodate me.

Our first wine, suggested by Eric, was a 2006 Domaine Weinbach Riesling Clos des Capuchins ‘Cuvée Ste. Catherine’ - light in color, fruity, with crisp acidity, and a long finish; it was very nice with our first SS crab, a small meaty crab with a delicate shell, on a bed of grape tomatoes and avocado in a light vinaigrette. A delightful way to start. Then Carollee decided to have a second crab along with me. This was another meaty little crab on two sauces - a fresh green pea purée and a rich cauliflower cream sauce. Partway through this course we ordered Eric’s second suggestion, a 2000 Zind-Humbrecht Gewürztraminer ‘Herrenweg de Turkheim’ - dark gold in color, rich, almost unctuous, spicy fruit with a very long finish. It was quite good with the rich sauces and crab.

After that Carollee decided to have a third crab course with me. It was amazing, a lightly sautéed crab on a bed of tasty shrimp in a rich vanilla sauce. This was also rich enough to pair with the Gewürz. Then while i was having my fourth crab. Carollee had a nice salad of fresh garden green in a light vinaigrette. My crab came on a bed of spicy Italian sausage wrapped in prosciutto and canellini beans and topped with delicate deep-fried onion rings. It was so rich i almost wished I’d had a light red wine, maybe a Barbera. But the Gewürz was big and rich enough to work as well.

Then while quite sated and full, we finished with a couple espressos. Another wonderful Nostrani meal.

I opened this thread as much to find out what wine you paired with the soft-shells as to read about the crabs themselves. Soft-shell crabs are right up there in my list of favorite foods. It sounds like you thought the Gewurz paired pretty well. I think your idea of having four crabs in four successive courses is interesting as well – gives the chef a chance to show off the versatility of the main ingredient.