Kevin, so sorry to hear about the SCM vineyards. Huge bummer, but the properties being ok is an immense silver lining. How did your AV properties fare? Did the deep end avoid the worst of the smoke?
Today was unlike anything I remember here, even in 2017. Orange/yellow sky all day, very poor visibility. Peak temps of 67F in Calistoga (was 112F two days ago.)
Oddly, the actual air quality was better today than yesterday by looking at online meters. But it sure did not look that way. It was like waking up in Mordor.
I was talking to a fairly prominent RRV Zinfandel grower today and he had me follow him out to his truck. He hands me a sample bottle and asks, do you smell anything? It was Zinfandel fermented near dry, I smelled nothing off, he said the client winery told him “it’s obvious smoke taint you can smell it.”
We couldn’t smell a thing. I’ve tasted lots of smoke tainted samples that smelled fine but tasted off. The smell usually comes after bottling not during fermentation. This was too loaded with lees cloudiness to be able to taste anything. They told him they’ll have test results back in 18 days. By then the fruit will be too ripe and they’ll likely pass on the fruit. Sucks to be him.
As others have said, there are going to be a lot of ‘gun shy’ wineries out there due to issues in 2008 or 2018 - and the ‘fear’ that many are painting this vintage in a certain light. I’m hoping those samples come back perfect and that they are able to sell the fruit . . .
In young wine, the smoke taint cannot be smelled because the grapes attach sugar molecules to the smoke taint molecules and these “bound” forms are odorless. The taint can often be detected in the mouth (but not the nose) because enzymes in saliva can break the two components apart again, leaving the smoke taint molecules unbound and able to be smelled retronasally.