I occasionally stumble in CT across notes I wrote a while ago, and re-reading some of them makes me think, this dude really knows what he’s talking about and has a certain flair to boot!
If you ever do this, share some of the of the best (real, not satire, but snark embraced if that’s where your writing shines) tasting notes you think you’ve written and the rest of us will get to see your best and hopefully learn something about your palate and what the wine universe has to share (I admit, choosing one’s favorites is hard, like picking amongst your [checks notes] 1500 children).
Here are two of my personal best (criteria agnostic):
For a wine I liked:
1996 Sociando Mallet
A thread critical of the 1996 Sociando Mallet prompted me open a bottle of it, as I hadn’t had it since DC '16 en magnum…
I have to say, I’m really digging these first few sips. Not a blockbuster to be sure, but I get enough ripeness to be content. The midpalate is a tad lean, but not dilute. It has the signature SM greenery- pine resin, pyrazines, black pepper, a little ash. Yum.
Ok, this won’t make you forget the 96 Pichon Lalande, but for the $30 this cost as recently as 2005, I’ll take it.
My bottle tonight of the 96 S-M is brimming with character. It really is the antithesis of a Rollandized wine. Folks who prefer modern-styled St. Emilion probably hate wines like this. I’m in love.
This wine is not perfect. Not by any means. It’s a little lean, a little green. But my bottle (at least) is wonderfully aromatic and interesting. It is fresh and engaging. There is the essence of juniper and pine and woodsy notes. There’s enough fruit to be charming, but this is a food wine. And it has plenty of gravitas. In my opinion, it is a style of claret that should be celebrated, not hounded out of existence by market forces.
For a wine I (really) disliked:
2005 The Winemakers’ Collection Michel Rolland Cuvée No. 1 Château d’Arsac
Wow, it’s not every day you get to smell and drink (and spit!) liquid oak… crazy new oak bouquet redolent of fresh coconut, star anise, vanilla, espresso grounds, and finishing with a burnt-acrid note. If I considered this bouquet “wine”, I would hate it, but if I think of it as a scented candle, it puts me in a certain holiday frame of mind… the palate isn’t nearly as oaky as the bouquet, rather it is distinguished by its silky smooth mouthfeel, and while sweet, it’s not particularly heavy. I often get this disconnect in Rolland’s wines, where the nose is garish with oak and fruit, and then the taste isn’t as extreme as you’d expect. Still, I’m not sure I like it per se, it’s so smooth there must be some serious tannin management here given the vintage (micro-bullage anyone?) and some acrid oak kicks in on the finish. A modern “masterpiece” par excellence, leaving me longing for the olden days (I poured the rest down the sink). Gotta love the label though!