SFChron: Bonne On SonomaCoast Syrah

JonBonne has an interesting (sorta) article on Syrah in today’s SFChron:
SFChron:Syrah

Not terribly profound, and covers some familiar territory, but a few new names I’ve not seen.
Tom

Waxwing is a new one for me. Have only had the 08 Sandler but find it a nice qpr. Baker Lane impressed me when I tasted it at the Vinify open house last May. Come to think of it this years open house is coming up. He needs to try some Jemrose if he likes Bennett Valley.

Nice article and I like his suggestions. I believe it’s generally true that in the New World we have a ways to go to figure out what grows best in what areas, but I have a nit to pick with his opening paragraph:

One of the great overlooked facts about Syrah: Historically, even in its motherland, this grape has made truly great wine in only a very, very small portion of the world - essentially a 50-mile stretch along the Rhone River

Historically true, however are we to believe that in all of France, there really is only narrow stretch along the Rhône where great Syrah might be grown? Or, perhaps it’s more likely France’s appellation system caused that history to evolve as it did.

Without getting too much into the old debate about Syrah’s malaise, I believe there are more than just a few hills in California where great Syrah might be grown. Whether it’s inappropriate terroirs, overcropping/young vines, or just too much Syrah planted for the few dozen enthusiasts out there, I’d still take California’s system of letting the Emperor^H^H^H^H^H^H^Hmarket decide what’s great.

On that subject… +1 on Brian’s Jemrose recommendation. The new “CdR” styled Grenache/Syrah/Viognier wines are really exciting too!

Waxwing is a project of Scott Sizemore, a former classmate of mine at UC Davis. Passionate dude who knows a thing or three about making killer wines . . .

And Larry, great points about where ‘truly great’ syrahs can come from. Gotta love the AOC system, eh?!?!?

Cheers!