by WolfangWeber on the red wines of the AltoAdige by WolfgangWeber. New writer to me, but nicely written article. A numer of OliverMcCrum’s wines are featured, as well as some quotes from Oliver. I particularly like the Schiava wines, though they’re hard to find.
Worth reading.
Tom
I have found good reds from the mountain regions of northern Italy to be very interesting. I’ve had many bottles of the following from J. Hofstätter: (a) Lagrein Alto Adige - Südtirol Steinraffler (from the Lagrein grape) and (b) Alto Adige - Südtirol Yngram (a Bordeaux blend). Both very classy, cool-climate reds with great complexity and elegance, sort of French-style wines with extra Italian acidity.
I’ve also enjoyed the Foradori Granato (from the Teroldego grape), a bit more mainstream in style (relatively) than those two above, but also a good wine.
Dave Cuneo, there’s no worry in the least that these are going to start flying off the shelves, though, they’re anything but crowd or critic pleasers. In fact, if there were to be a bit more interest in these types of wines, we’d probably find them easier to locate.
My favorite Lagrein is still the Ignatz Neidrist. Greg Dal Piaz did a Granato vertical at his crib back in the day which was a lot of fun and showed how good Teroldego could be. The only Schiava I have seen so far was from Moore Brothers, more like a rose than a red but delicious and unique.
Thinking of Schiava as a dark rosé is pretty accurate, which is why it’s often blended with Lagrein for a little color and weight (Santa Magdalener, for example). It’s great with cured pork, especially speck.
Thanks for asking. In spirit at least, I am from Cuneo, the provincial capital of the province of Cuneo and home of Barolo, Barbaresco etc.
However… to the best of our knowledge, my great grandfather Benedetto Cuneo came from Voghera, a small town south of Milan. His wife, Mary (Maria) came from Barbianello, about 11 miles east of Voghera. This was in the 1880’s when they immigrated. We were looking at the citizenship papers for Benedetto at Xmas (who died young of TB at age 40), and Mary’s passport which had her date of birth and town of birth. She made one trip home to Italy on that passport just before she passed away.
I really can’t say. For particular reasons, I do all of my wine shopping at one local wine shop out here, and he doesn’t have one Lagrein or Teroldego in stock; I really can’t comment on the availability elsewhere. Also, I’ve lived here for less than a year.
That said, please do make suggestions; I still buy wine at K&L, as I have a friend who is holding my wine for me until my wife and I move back to L.A. in a couple years. Based on some of the Lagreins and Teroldegos I’ve had, they both seem they could age quite nicely.
I think Lagrein is a better ager. I’ve had more Teroldego than Lagrein, and have emotional reasons to prefer Teroldego for my cellar, but it aint happening.
Oliver, This is what I have on hand. the tasting is Feb 8th. Any additional bottles would be appreciated.
1999 F. Gojer-Glogglhof Riserva
1999 E. Walch Castel Ringberg Lagrein
1999 Santa Maddalena Perl
1999 Hofstatter Steinraffler
1999 Santa Maddalena Taber
2000 Hofstatter Steinraffler
2003 Santa Maddalena Taber
2006 Tiefenbrunner Linticlarus
2006 Hofstatter
2007 Praxis Central Coast
2007 San Pietro
2007 Abbazia di Novacella
2008 Muri Gries
2008 Cantina Termeno
2008 Lageder
I agree, I think Teroldego is delicious but some varieties just don’t develop in the bottle. (Dolcetto is my best example of this, I drink a ton of it but don’t find it ages at all.)
You have some interesting older wines there, I can’t wait to see how they show, wish I could join you. I’ll take a look at the list and see what I can contribute.