I was always a big fan of the wines from this domaine in the 70s, but thereafter it went moribund. I’ve noticed some good TNs here in the last few years, and one sees a good number of “library” releases from them on the market. Recently, a friend sent me an offer he had received for the 1994 Erbacher Marcobrunn Auslese in 500ml format with a question as to whether this was worth buying at the offered price of $29. I was thinking of just telling him to take a flyer on it, but as I was reading through Stuart Pigott’s new book, “The Riesling Story- Best White Wine on Earth,” I happened to notice his report that in August of 2013, Schloss Schönborn admitted that under the guidance of their recently departed technical director Peter Barth, “about 20 wines” had been illegally “improved.” Pigott finds Schönborn’s wines from the Barth era (2001 onwards) suspect.
Does anyone know the back story here? And should I be suspicious about the quality and “constitution” of these library release wines?
I don’t know the story, but 375mls of the 02 Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Auslese*** I picked up last year have have been excellent, though young. Certainly nothing in those seemed fiddled with. They seem like classic Rheingau.
And a 1 litre of 96 Hochheim Daubhaus Spätlese I opened a few weeks ago was spectacular, as I posted here. Based on the 96, I’d definitely grab that 94.
I drank many of the 1997 Schloss Schönborn Hattenheimer Pfaffenberg Riesling Spätlese “Old Label”
purchased on closeout in 2007, between then and 2009. A few were tired, but the ones that weren’t were very good.
Charles
IMHO, the best of the old noble Rheingau estates from about 1983 up to about 2000. Not sure after that. That said, all of the old estates were SERIOUSLY underperforming. I’m talking about Johannisberger, Vollrads, Reinhartshausener, Schonborn. Eltz sold out years ago.
it was four vintages, in which they “improved” wines (2008 to 2011). Here’s what they did:
they illegaly added distilled wine to TBAs to raise the alcohol level to the minimum required alcohol level of 7% ABV (below you can’t legally name it “wine”)
they illegaly concentrated the must on one wine
they illegaly blended wines from single vineyards with wine from other vineyards
they illegaly blended Rheingau red wine with Franken red wine and named the wines Rheingau wines
they illegaly reduced the (naturally occuring) sulphur level on the base wine of one of their Sekts.
Thanks, Steven. Wouldn’t you know it but after I told my friend about this, he tried to order the 94 Marcobrunn Auslese but it was sold out. You snooze, you lose!