Saving Old Vineyards - Economics vs Heritage

Interesting thread. I suppose I fall into the “newer, hipster wine” category of buyer, but I never set out to specifically buy from old vineyards. That just kind of happened naturally for the older varieties, such as Mission and Flame Tokay etc.

  1. The Flame Tokays I take are from 118 year old Lodi vines. This we know for a fact as they’re recorded in the house’s deed.

  2. The Missions we don’t know for sure how old they are, but they’re at the very least 50 years old, but could be 120 years old (Ken Zinns think they might be). Very vigorous producers still. As for Mission, the attrition has been all-encompassing. Today there are only about 4 places that still grow it: Deaver and Story ranch in Amador, Somers in Lodi and small planting in Santa Barbera/Santa Ynez area farmed by the Rusack Vineyards. I just got an email from a grower in Placer Country I had not heard of before, so that takes the number up to 5 known Mission plantings.

  3. This year I also took a small batch of Syrah from Lodi from the oldest Syrah planting there (and most likely one of the oldest in California). The cuttings were smuggled into the US from Australia in the 60’s and planted in what was long referred to as the Mettler block. I had no idea about all this this until Tegan Passalaqua informed me of its history via Instagram. Again, this was not by design at all, quite the contrary. The block has produced some award-winning wines in the past from a few different producers, so I’m glad I get to try it.

Next year I want to take some Zinfandel. So many really old Zin vineyards up in Lodi that didn’t get to sell their fruit at all this year. It’s a shame. Even if I just take a ton or two, every little helps in preserving these older vineyards.

Adam, I’d like to quote your paragraph on Mission on the Mission/Pais thread and expand on it regarding where there are Mission plantings in California - there are more than five for sure, perhaps way more. Most are old but I believe there are at least a couple of new ones that have been planted or are planned.

I’m sure there are plenty more. I think there might be some in Sonoma and I think Bedrock has some in the vineyard for their Heritage blend. I know for sure there is a little around Rancho Cucamonga as I saw Scholium take some “Rosa de Peru” from undisclosed location there. Ryan Stirm gets some from San Benito, I think. But as far as bigger vineyards there’s not that many left.

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Yes, I imagine you’re correct that most remaining Mission in California is in small blocks scattered around various parts of the state. I also suspect that there may be more than is currently known since some of the old vines may not be known to be Mission if they’ve been farmed for decades as part of old, mixed-variety vineyards.

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According to the 2018 grape crush report there was 1047 tons of Mission crushed in 2018 in California. it looks like 900+ if that was crushed in Fresno County with very small numbers coming from San Mateo County, Amador County, Lodi, Riverside County (Rancho Cucamonga), San Luis Obispo County, etc… Mission is very common in old field-blended vineyards in the North Coast but I cannot think of any pure Mission plantings remaining in Sonoma, Napa, Mendo, etc.

I would add that the same vineyard in Lodi where we got our Mission for Angelica is used by a number of other people (I believe Broc’s stuff comes from here as well).

We are planning on planting a block at Bedrock Vineyard as well for our Angelica needs as we will be building that Solera over time and want a consistent source of well-farmed fruit. I think it will be the first block of Mission planted in the North Coast in a long time.

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Great to hear you’re planting some Mission again, Morgan! Let me ask you this - how much Mission do you have in your Bedrock mixed field? Do you know?

Yes, the Mission Ken and I got was from the Somers Vineyard in Lodi. Broc gets from there, and this year so did Pax Mahle (and quite a lot). Numerous other smaller producers also get some there. It has to be one of the bigger Mission vineyards still producing - my guess it’s probably at least 50 tons per year.

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We have about a dozen vines at Bedrock, a couple dozen at Evangelho, a few dozen at Pagani Ranch, and similar small amounts at a number of other old vineyards.

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Morgan, any idea whether the Fresno County Mission is likely to be from old vines or from plantings within the past 40-50 years? I’d thought that there had been hardly any Mission planted in California since the late 1800s, but perhaps I was mistaken on that. The possible 1970s planting date for the vines at Somers Vineyard in Lodi would be an example. Wondering why some Central Valley growers in the 1900s might have chosen to plant Mission rather than other varieties. I’m sure it does well in the San Joaquin Valley but so would a number of other varieties.

Outside of the United States, it is important to recognize how other nations are working to bring recognition to old vineyards and hidden treasures:


VinePair
“Chenin Blanc Winemakers Are Breathing New Life Into South Africa’s Forgotten Vines”

by Betsy Andrews
February 28, 2020


"…‘Old vines do pretty well in adverse conditions, especially drought, particularly due to their well-established root systems,’ Andre Morgenthal, project manager for South Africa’s Old Vine Project (OVP), and our host for the tasting, said. OVP member wineries use grapes from vines at least 35 years old, a status indicated on bottles with the OVP’s Certified Heritage Vineyards seal.

“The Project is the brainchild of viticultural consultant Rosa Kruger, who’s been hunting down South Africa’s forgotten vines since 2002. The diversity of her discoveries is impressive. Though they make up just 3 to 4 percent of all South African plantings, OVP-registered vines comprise 48 varieties. Approximately half of these are Chenin Blanc…”



Old Vine Project (OVP) website: https://oldvineproject.co.za/

Scholium Project email report on old-vine “Lopez Vineyard”

"…We are on the edge of something glorious and it has never felt closer.

"Let me tell you one other thing, significant and wonderful.
I have brought in a dear colleague to be a partner in this enterprise. It was born from our Scythian tastings, and my somewhat oneiric recognition that this winery was a Scythian enterprise.

“After a prophetic dream early one morning, I asked my partner in these Scythian explorations to join me in making wine in Los Angeles-- and he agreed, eagerly. Raj Parr and I are now collaborating on the Los Angeles winery. We will work in many ways together, but especially in trying to discover sources of fruit that are particularly Southern Californian, and that can represent the strange and wonderful history of Southern California grape growing and winemaking. We will also make some Southern California wines for him and his wine club at the winery, and he and I will collaborate on some utterly new wines, perhaps under a new label. This is only the second time that I have ever spoken of this; you Scholium adherents are the first to learn of this…”



Scholium Project email report on old-vine “Lone Wolf Vineyard”

"…Long before I ever saw Lone Wolf, I visited the Galleano’s remarkable Lopez vineyard, in Rancho Cucamonga. Ancient head-trained Zinfandel, struggling steadily in deep alluvial sand, not only unirrigated, but in a certain sense unfarmed, living alone.

"Just setting foot in Lopez feels like a visit to a sacred precinct. But a vineyard is in crucial ways the opposite of a temple, with its carefully delimited perimeter, its tall walls rising to the closed ceiling above: vineyards are open, the very sky is their roof. For a few years now, I hve been inquiring into the metaphysical meaning of the vineyard wall-- into the paradigm of the enclosed vineyard-- the CLOS-- and yet not only do Lopez and Lone Wolf have no walls, but their edges are not even clear, they are blurred, and are not even rectilineal, but meandering and unpredictable, shaped by various external forces.

"Forces. Standing in Lone Wolf, one feels forces that are hard to point to. Sentiment plays a role here, suggestion, maybe even desire. And what is wrong with this? It is a place that excites emotion, that moves.

“The vineyard was originally planted in 1912; about this we are pretty sure. On a Native American reservation; at a time when there were extensive plantings on reservations, and a network of Native grape growers and winemakers. Prohibition and other forces I have yet to understand put an end to most of the vineyards and winemaking. (There are stories of bootleg wine, but I am not sure if I believe them. There is something too weak, too civilized in its nature, about wine that seems to distance it from bootlegging. I don’t see people using passwords and enduring gangsters to get their Zinfandel, no matter how good.)…”



Scholium Project website:
https://scholiumwines.com/

grouphug Update to Scholium Project’s work:

From yesterday’s email- “…The wines are truly wines of the South-- from alluvial vineyards just east of the city, in the historic Cucamonga Valley, from the sandy hills north of San Diego, from the endless plains surrounding Fresno. And from Lone Wolf, a vineyard planted on a reservation more than a hundred years ago, truly in another era, and then abandoned. The history of this area is all on the surface, yet nothing is obvious…”.


THE LOS ANGELES WINES: OUR INAUGURAL RELEASE

"These are the wines:

2019 M.E.P.P.

"Pecorino from the Ponte Vineyard in Temecula. 50% skin-fermented, 50% juice.
The name stands for ‘Modified Emidio Pepe Pecorino Protocol’-- named for the wine of one our heroes, and the touchstone for our success in this wine.
We are sending you 2 bottles of this wine.

2019 Raisin City

'Incredible bio-dynamically farmed, own-rooted, Palomino from the infinite deserts of Fresno

2019 Lopez White

"Not white at all, but we tried: a deeply colored rosé made from Zinfandel from Lopez. Foot-stomping and 3 hours of skin-contact released all of the color. The wine has the flavor and presence of a white wine in spite of its appearance.

2019 Lopez Red

"100% Zinfandel, planted in 1920 in the Cucamonga Valley just east of Los Angeles. Growing in deep sand, on their own roots, farmed organically and without irrigation. The vineyard is a natural treasure, preserved by the wonderful Galleano family.

2019 Galleano Home

"An incredible blend of ancient own-rooted vines, planted by the Galleano in 1920 for Port and Sherry production. One-third each Alicante Bousquet, Salvador, and white fruit: Palomino, Mission, and Rose of Peru. Harvested by us on the hottest day of the year, foot-stomped, co-fermented.


2019 Lone Wolf

"The treasure of our harvest. We found an own-rooted Mission vineyard, planted in 1912, and abandoned around 1960. Some vines pruned once or twice since then, almost no wine made. For sixty years. This is the first public release of a wine made from the vineyard since Prohibition.
Mission is a strange, nearly wild, grape imported and propagated by the Spanish colonists as they moved North from Chile and Peru through Mexico and California. The grape is highly variable, with a complex and untamed genetic heritage. The Mission vineyards all over California differ strongly from each other-- there was no such thing as a UC Davis clone of Mission when these vineyards were planted.

"The variety tends to produce lightly colored pink or cherry red grapes, with tiny berries on loose clusters. The fruit, seeds, and stems are all highly tannic. For this reason, the grapes have always been made mostly into white wine or very lightly colored rosé. We destemmed 70% of fruit, stomped on almost all of it, and then allowed everything to ferment together for nearly 3 weeks. The result is a lightly colored red wine that smells and tastes like nothing you have ever encountered. It is graceful and energetic in the mouth-- but shockingly tannic. It is a real wine of meditation and reflection.

2019 Red Blend

“We made 1.5 barrels of Lone Wolf and did not want to leave the second barrel half full. After a few weeks of letting it develop on its own, we tried to top it with a combination of Kirschenmann Zinfandel, Lopez Zinfandel, and Pecorino. But as we filled the barrel and kept tasting it, we decided that the new wines were swamping the delightfully strange Mission-- and stopped topping. This blend is about 50% Lone Wolf and it is good and interesting-- a wine more of the cellar than any particular vineyard.”

I saw some of the photos of those Mission vines on his Insta - it’s amazing anything could be harvested from them. I also though Rosa de Peru and Mission are the same, but Abe refers to them as separate.

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A few photos below from a visit to the Cucamonga Valley area in June 2018. Unless things have changed since then, Lopez Vineyard is not owned by the Galleano family but they manage the farming there. Carol Shelton makes a very distinctive Zinfandel from Lopez Vineyard fruit. A write-up on my visit to Galleano Winery and several old vineyards (all the vines are head-trained and dry-farmed) is here:
Galleano Winery, June 2018

Lopez Vineyard in Fontana, around 350 acres, nearly all Zinfandel planted in 1918. Most of the vines are no more than 24-30 inches tall, while the roots are said to extend as far as 30-50 feet into the ground. Yield is less than one ton per acre.


Not far away, near Ontario airport, is 6-acre (once much larger) Hofer Ranch - Grenache vines at least 85 years old, very possibly older:


Galleano’s 7-acre estate vineyard, planted in the 1940s, and includes Palomino, Golden Chasselas, Grenache, Zinfandel, Mission, Alicante Bouschet, and Cinsault:

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From everything I’ve read, they are the same variety - perhaps a clonal variation such as with Zinfandel and Primitivo?

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He talks about the genetic diversity of the variety in the Lone Wolf notes. I looked into that a bit when researching the Argentine Torrontes varieties. Iirc, all three have Mission (Criola Chica in Argentina) as a parent, and the best one and another are Mission x Muscat of Alexandria crosses. This was over a decade ago, so I’m sure a lot more info is available, but it sounded like skin thickness varies quite a bit by location. Some of that would be due to mutation and some site adaptation. Anyway, maybe he has some historic (site specific?) basis. I’m sure it would be fair to assume those two are distinct. I know Rose of Peru was a common name for the grape. There’s a romanticism to it. We’ve seen the name Mission from the 1860s. Maybe it’s a case of newer nurserymen appealing to the sentiments of the American immigrants into the new state. It does seem Mission is more of a northern California name, while commercial Angelica production started in the L.A. basin, where you see historic Rose of Peru name usage.

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I discovered that the Lodi Wine Commission’s blog recently featured a new organization that, like theHistoric Vineyard Society, is dedicated to preserving heritage viticultural sites - “Save the Old”:


"OUR MISSION

"Here in Lodi, California, old vines are living, breathing remnants of our winegrowing history; silent reminders that our roots in farming run deep. If these ghosts of Lodi’s past could speak (some claim they do), oh, the stories they would tell!

"Generation after generation, our growers have cared for thousands of acres of these old, gnarly, 50-, 75-, 100-plus-year-old vines out of love and nostalgia. Due to their labor of love, Lodi is indisputably home to California’s highest concentration of own-rooted, old vine vineyards – a fact which is a source of great pride among our community.

"But these old vine vineyards are in danger, and not only in Lodi. Each year in California, hundreds of acres of old vine vineyards are ripped out. Increasing costs of vineyard management, low yields, urban developments, and a diminishing return (i.e. scant prices) is forcing many growers to replace beloved vineyards with rows of younger, more productive vines.

"These living artifacts of agricultural history are disappearing, one by one. And once they’re gone, they’re gone. And so are the special wines made from those vineyards.

"As special as they are, we believe these old vine vineyards deserve to stay in the ground. Our mission is simple: preserve Lodi’s historical vineyards for generations to come. And in doing so, inspire a movement among like-minded people throughout the winegrowing regions of California and beyond.

"But we can’t save these vineyards alone. We need someone like you to care as much as we do; to seek out these vineyards and the wines that are made from them; to tell their stories and advocate for their preservation.

“Join us and save the old!”


· Featured Vineyards

· Blog


Save the Old website:

The Historic Vineyard Society is collaborating with Cal Poly in a new study:


Wine Berserkers thread: “Historic Vineyard Society and Cal Poly Old Vine Zin Research Project”


“…Earlier this summer, we were approached by Federico Casassa Ph.D., Associate Professor of Enology at the Cal Poly Wine & Viticulture Department. Federico and Dr. Jean Dodson Peterson (viticulture) are running a research project that aims to evaluate the effect of “Old Vine” Zinfandel on grape quality and wine quality, including chemistry and wine composition.”

Historic Vineyard Society website:
https://historicvineyardsociety.org/



I also posted on that thread information related to a previous study conducted by Sierra Foothills grape growers and winemakers in pursuit of an answer to the question:

“Is it the parentage of the vines or the environmental conditions of the region that give Sierra Foothills Zinfandels their unique characteristics?”

Unfortunately, no internet search found the conclusions yielded from the project.

Thanks for those posts!

Hope you are doing well.

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I discovered another region-specific organization devoted to the celebration of viticultural history.


Wine History Project of San Luis Obispo:

“We collect and present two centuries of local viticulture history through research, interviews, exhibitions, films, and publications and work with local vintners and growers to bring to life the wine history of San Luis Obispo County.”

· People

· Objects

· Wine


KCBX Central Coast Radio
“Central Coast Voices: The Wine History Project of San Luis Obispo County”

by Fred Monroe
July 11, 2019


"San Luis Obispo’s wine history begins in the late 1700s when the Franciscans brought vines and winemaking from Spain to establish two of the most successful mission vineyards in California. Since that time, innovative and enterprising growers and winemakers have had a significant influence on the economy of California and wine culture world-wide. The Wine History Project of SLO County believes in actively engaging the public to educate and delight them in discovering this distinctive wine and food history.

“Join host Fred Munroe as he speaks with guests Libbie Agran, Director of the Wine History Project of SLO County and Heather Muran, Historian for the Wine History Project of SLO County as they discuss how they are working to preserve and present two centuries of local viticulture through research, interviews, exhibitions, publications, talks and tastings for the community.”