My Notes from the Event,
Part #1: “Enz” & “Wirz”
Morgan Twain-Peterson (Bedrock):
- “Under the Mountain Vineyard”
· Once reportedly part of the larger (now uprooted) “Mary Carter Vineyard”; David Bruce bottled a varietal Grenache wine from this site in the early 1970s; only a total of 3 Grenache vines remain at “Under the Mountain”. - Marty Matthis (son of Kathryn Kennedy) - source of information on Hecker Pass vineyards
- Filomena - winery started by Bedrock’s cellar master, Luke Nio: Rosé of Cabernet Pfeffer producer (from “Enz Vineyard”).
8:00 Official Start of Session
Emily Rasmussen of HVS
Mission statement of Historic Vineyard Society
- California’s Central Coast includes 40 AVAs, ~90,000 acres
Ian Brand (I. Brand, Le P’tit Paysan, la Marea):
-
Early American winemaking in Santa Clara’s San José area had two main nurseries for grape vines:
/ Pierre Pellier (Mirassou) - major wine grape budwood importer and supplier through the 1870s
\ William Pfeffer (and Theophile Vaché) San Francisco to San Juan Bautista/Cienega Valley -
Three Valleys of San Benito County:
· North - Eden Rift and DeRose (historically the oldest area of the three planted)
· Middle - “Gimelli Vyd” (formerly “Gabilan Vineyard”) and “Wirz Vyd”
· South - “Enz Vineyard” -
1960s-90s Almaden had 30-year leases on every vineyard in San Benito County; ultimately led to preservation of local old-vine sites, even though it temporarily deprived other producers of access to region’s fruit
-
“Enz Vineyard”:
· Calcareous soils (limestone and granite) in an isolated valley, underground water accessible by vine roots
· Zinfandel and Cabernet Pfeffer planted in 1890s; own-rooted, head-trained, basket-pruned, mostly dry-farmed
· This site’s wines often are leaner, more angular, but very age-worthy -
Cabernet Pfeffer: sometimes mistaken with interplanted Trousseau, Négrette, and other varieties; U.S. Cabernet Pfeffer almost is exclusive to the Cienega Valley in San Benito County
Nicole Walsh (Ser):
-
Walsh has produced Cabernet Pfeffer wines from “Wirz”, “Enz”, “DeRose”, and “Gimelli” vineyards
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According to Pat Wirz, Cab Pfeffer was grown by Frederic Bioletti (“El Gavilan/Gabilan Vyds” and Davis, CA), William Pfeffer (SF/Santa Clara/SJB area), and Harold Ohrwall (El Gavilan Vineyards, Cienega Valley);
· “Wirz Vineyard’s” oldest Cab Pfeffer vines date back to 1920s;
· Ken Volk’s early submission of “Cabernet Pfeffer” plant material to UC Davis for DNA analysis returned w/ results for “Gros Verdot”; later determined to be Mourtaou. -
Cabernet Pfeffer is lightly colored, with white pepper aroma, cranberry & pomegranate fruit and earthy flavors, delicate structure.
-
Walsh has worked with grapes from 4 of the 5 best-known Cabernet Pfeffer vineyards.
-
“Wirz Vineyard”:
· Cabernet Pfeffer from ~1925, Riesling from 1960s;
· Dry-farmed, granite, limestone, sandy loam.
Ian Brand:
-
“Enz Vineyard’s” Cabernet Pfeffer is more often expressed as a field blend of its “mother block”: Cab Pfeffer, Cab Sauv, Malbec, Grand Noir, Alicante Bouschet, Trousseau.
-
“Enz” and “Wirz” grapevine components: genetic make-up from area cuttings, shared locally, but generally isolated;
· Mataro/Mourvèdre: distinct from other Californian examples
Morgan Twain-Peterson and Ian Brand:
Biotypes, morphological differences in grape varieties in “Wirz” and “Enz” vineyards
Nicole Walsh:
- “Wirz Vineyard”: ~45 acres of vines, 40 acres of white grapes (Riesling, Sylvaner, Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay) and +5 acres of red;
“Rayas” Clone Grenache was planted by Walsh and Randall Grahm, but became diseased and performed very poorly - Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon began working with Pat Wirz in the early-to-mid-1990s
· Riesling was used for Grahm’s Pac Rim label until 2009, when label was sold; 2009-2012: transition period of different buyers of Wirz’s grapes. - 1948 Pat Wirz’s father bought the vineyard; in 1983, Pat took over working the site.
To Be Continued in Part #2 of My Notes…







