Santa Clara & San Benito Wine Heritage

Thanks to this Wine Berserkers post, I was able to determine that the Blue Ox winery is up and running.


Berkeley Side
“Want to Go Wine Tasting? You Can Try More Wine on a Day Trip to Berkeley Than to Napa or Sonoma”

by Frances Dinkelspiel
May 17, 2019


Blue Ox winery produces an “Enz Vineyard” Cabernet Pfeffer from the Lime Kiln Valley AVA:

2018 Cabernet Pfeffer

"…One-third of the grapes were left whole cluster to lend a semi-carbonic element to the wine and soften the often aggressive tannins of this variety. We were very careful with the cap management because we did not want to over extract the wine. It was punched down twice a day simply by wetting the cap with our hands for the first half of the fermentation leading into one punchdown a day as it got closer to dryness. The wine was then pressed into neutral French Oak and aged for 5 months before bottling it unfined and unfiltered. We produced 2 barrels.

"Tasting Notes: Wild Cranberry. Blackberry. White Pepper. Violet.

What’s in a Name?: ‘Persona’ is a beautiful film by Ingmar Bergman that is about the ways in which ideas create images and realities. It explores the idea of the self as liquid through the lens of an actress and a nurse. We thought it was a good fit for our Cab Pfeffer, which has a fairly fluid identity itself. There is still debate about what the grape actually is. Some say it’s the lost grape of Bordeaux, Gros Verdot, while others say it was a cross by some German scientist. Whatever the truth, it’s a rare little thing that creates delicious wines of subtle structure and floral lift when handled gently.”


*** EDIT * Update**

Blue Ox is now Hammerling Wines.

The January 28, 2021, Journal entry by Josh Hammerling, entitled A New Beginning, explains why it was necessary for the company to change its name.

Edible Silicon Valley
“Dorcich Family Vineyards”

June 10, 2019


"A family owned and operated winery with a sleek industrial-loft style tasting room. Our 73-acre picturesque estate is nestled alongside Uvas Creek. Our tasting flights feature 9 estate grown varietals, Dad’s Blend and our flagship wine—Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon.

"DFV label is our premium wines including the Monte Bello Cabernet Sauvignon. We will be releasing more DFV wines this Fall.

“The Ankora label is our everyday wine and a tribute to family. Ankora is Croatian for anchor. It represents the family being anchored here in the Santa Clara Valley. The label art represents Stephen Dorcich’s grandfather’s journey here to America to start a new life for his family and the generations to come. It’s about hard work and sacrifice to provide a better life for those to come.”

I needed to add a few newer (as well as not-so-new) producers to the registry of wineries’ bottlings from San Benito and Santa Clara grapes.


Camino Cellars
“Enz Vineyard” Mourvedre



Rexford Winery
2017 Zinfandel, Lime Kiln Valley, “Gillian Enz Vineyard”



Reeve Wines
2018 “Prism” San Benito County Riesling

"Because of the devastating 2018 fires in Mendocino, we were forced to scramble for an alternative source of ‘Prism’ right before harvest. Our friends at Bedrock Winery quickly connected us with one of their growers to help us out and ensure we had a great source to continue with ‘Prism’. Although it’s not the same AVA, the spirit of electricity lives on.

"Sourced mainly from the +60-year-old ‘Wirz Vineyard’ in the Cienga Hills with a dash of ‘Vonarburg’ Riesling in Mendocino to give it continuity.

"The fruit was hand-sorted before a gentle whole-cluster pressing. This Riesling was slowly fermented in stainless steel at cool temperatures over a two month period. Bottled in Stelvin Lux screwcap closures to enhance the freshness and laser-like nature of the wine (and to cut down on any cork taint.) Plus easy access, right?

“Pungent rainforest flowers and stone on the nose. A mix of green apple and tropical fruit favors with a real driving, tension loaded lemony finish.”


Bedrock Wine Company
2018 “Under the Mountain” Heritage Wine

“One of the most intriguing sites we work with, ‘Vineyard Under the Mountain’ was planted in the 1910s in the hills to the west of Morgan Hill (my favorite hill) and just a little south of Hecker Pass. Located just a couple hundred below the elevation line for the Santa Cruz Mountains the vineyard is a rare remaining old vineyard in an area once renowned for its quality wine production. The 2018, which is composed primarily of Zinfandel and Carignan, showcases the beautiful, precise fruit of the location and the brightness that comes with exposure to the Pacific Ocean. This will take a little while to unfurl but promises great rewards when it does.”

2018 “Wirz Vineyard” Old Vine Riesling

“From own-rooted vines planted in 1963 in the Cienega Valley on sandy soils derived of limestone and granite, this vineyard put out a scant 1-1.5 tons per acre of perfumed, vibrant fruit in 2018. For those wondering where Cienega Valley is (I had to look at a map the first time) it is located to the east of the Gabilan Range near the eastern entrance to Pinnacle National Park. The 2018 is one of my favorite versions of this wine as it combines its natural savory, mineral texture with classic Riesling flowery perfume (gardenia anyone?). This wine is fermented dry (we will invariably get a lot of questions since it is riesling) and made more in the style of Alsatian, Austrian’ or Grosses Gewächs iterations of the variety.”

2018 “Enz” Heritage Wine, Lime Kiln Valley

"This is the first vintage we got the opportunity to work with ‘Enz Vineyard’, one of the few GREAT old vine sites on the Central Coast. Located in a remote, golden valley on the eastern side of the Gabilan Range, the vineyard is technically in the Lime Kiln AVA - named for the limestone quarry and kiln just up the road from the vineyard. Planted on its own roots in limestone and granite derived sands in the 1920s, ‘Enz’ is composed predominately of Mataro but also has Zinfandel, Cabernet Pfeffer, and several other interplanted varieties. The wine is roughly the breakdown of the vineyard - about 70% Mataro, 20% Zinfandel, and 10% Cabernet Pfeffer.

“And what exactly is Cabernet Pfeffer, one might ask? Despite much lore in the area as to its origins - some posit that it is a blend of Trousseau and Cabernet, some posit that it was crossed by a gent named William Pfeffer, some say it was named Pfeffer because it is peppery and ‘Pfeffer’ means pepper in German. Based on PCR analysis, it is actually an obscure variety from the southwest of France called Mourtaou. There is a not much of it in California, but most of it is in the area of Cienega Valley (there is some at ‘Wirz’ as well) so is definitely a hallmark of this remote viticultural area.”


Stirm Wine Company
2018 “Wirz Vineyard” Zinfandel

"Vintage Summary: The 2018 growing season was one of the mildest growing seasons in recent memory. Less than average rainfall during the winter months, though the March rains proved to be a savior. The late rains coupled with very cool weather set back the physiological development of all the vine cycles from flowering to fruit set a couple of weeks compared with 2018. Other than the usual heat during June and July, the late summer conditions were very mild and allowed us to ripen fruit later than ever with very slow sugar accumulation and high acid retention. Grapes were picked over two days, on October 1, 2018.

"Winemaking: The grapes were picked by hand, sorted in the field. At the winery the grapes were sorted into a redwood fermenter, whole cluster, with 1% Riesling grapes added into the field blend. Pumped over once daily, pressed after a 11 day fermentation. Elevage in old (10 years) barriques for 18 months on fine lees. Racked to stainless steel one month prior with the addition of ‘Wirz’ Riesling into the final blend (Zinfandel 91%/Riesling 9%).

“Unfined, unfiltered. Bottled February 25th, 2020. 210 cases produced.”

Randy over at The Wine Write has done another fantastic interview with one of the great winemakers focused on fruit from the San Benito/Santa Clara area!


The Wine Write
“Our Conversation With Ryan Stirm of Stirm Wine”

April 4, 2020


"What struck us after our conversation with this week’s guest? His sense of purpose.

Ryan Stirm started his eponymous label in 2013 during an influential stint at Tyler Winery working under winemaker Justin Willett. While Ryan could have chosen to focus on any of the many grape varietals that thrive in Santa Barbara County, he picked one: Riesling. His mission is to help pioneer the new age of California Riesling.

"Stirm Wine Company is now based in Santa Cruz County, where Ryan shares space with three natural winemakers in a winery located in Aromas, a small farming town southeast of Santa Cruz. These aren’t vanity projects flush with money. Making do with what you have is the order of the day.

“Riesling isn’t the only thing that feeds Ryan Stirm’s passion. He spends most of his time these days working distinctive, rugged, organic, dry-farmed vineyards. His calling is to improve the viticultural practices at these ranches, many of which were farmed conventionally in the past, and leave the dirt better than when he found it. His wines are made to tell the stories of these unique places. And he’d like us to come along for the ride.”

“…The Wine Write: Wirz Vineyard has garnered some deserved attention of late. How did you get in there?”

"Ryan: I literally just drove there and met Pat Wirz on the farm. He’s pretty old school. They have a land line, but they’re about as hard to contact as anyone I’ve met. San Benito County isn’t very far away, only an hour away from Silicon Valley, but you might as well be stepping into another universe in terms of how far removed it is from society.

"It’s funny that the vineyard even exists. Vineyards need commerce and sales, just like any other endeavor. A good local wine business existed in San Benito County for years: Almaden. Everybody out there sold fruit to Almaden. They used to have warehouses out there that would hold thirty-seven thousand barrels. At one point that was the largest barrel warehouse in the world. The Wirz Vineyard fruit all went there for fifteen to twenty years. Pat Wirz worked for Almaden for a number of years. His white grapes were originally used to make sparkling wine. Red grapes like Zinfandel, Rosa del Peru, and the mixed blacks also went there.


“After Almaden folded all of the Wirz Vineyard Riesling went to Randall Grahm. It got blended with Washington State Riesling to make the Pacific Rim brand. So having those two big buyers helped keep Wirz Vineyard afloat for years. It’s a real historic place and a survivor, as are Enz Vineyard, Eden Rift, and DeRose. There are some hidden gems in San Benito County. I liken the area to Napa South. It’s got that much history.”

The Wine Write: What happened to allow yourself and other smaller producers to get into Wirz?”

Ryan: I think there was a shift in his business model after 2010. He started to work with some smaller winemakers. Thomas Fogarty came into the mix. Bedrock started buying fruit. I began getting fruit for Stirm in 2015. Maidenstoen is in there now. There are probably ten different wineries working with them now. I’ve slowly started to scale up with mine. I get Riesling, Zinfandel, and Rosa del Peru from there.”

“…The Wine Write: How can readers best source Stirm wines?”

Ryan: I’d love for them to find my wines through our website. I definitely want to grow my sales there. I’m a one man show. Right now virtually all the wine is sold through distribution. They’re pretty easy to find in the Bay Area, but the best way for most folks to grab a bottle is online…”.


STiRM Wine Company website:

Many previous “Santa Clara & San Benito Wine Heritage” thread posts discussed Lime Kiln Valley’s “Enz Vineyard”.

It appears that comments now are hyper-focused on a different historic viticultural site: the “Wirz Vineyard” in Cienega Valley AVA.


From An April 23, 2020, SER Winery email -


"I’ve decided to take you all on a virtual tour. I am calling this my ‘Virtual Vineyard Tour Series’. Each wine from a particular featured vineyard will be discounted.

"I am starting off with one of my favorite vineyards: ‘Wirz Vineyard’. I’ve been working with this vineyard since 2003. Cool climate, old vine, dry-farmed, organically farmed, a trusted farmer and colleague, hit all of the boxes for me when considering what grapes to produce wine from.

"My boys and I went to visit the grower, Pat Wirz, last weekend to check on the vines. He graciously shared some knowledge about his vineyard with us as my son recorded and edited a video for you all to enjoy. Please keep reading below about special discounts on the wines made from ‘Wirz Vineyard’.


SER Winery YouTube video
“Virtual Vineyard Tour Series: ‘Wirz Vineyard’

"TIME STAMPS

· 1:00 - Interviewing Pat Wirz, owner and grower of “Wirz Vineyard”.

· 1:50 - Pat discusses this year’s rainfall and his irrigation philosophy.

· 3:00 - Pat discusses the climate at “Wirz Vineyard”.

· 8:15 - Pat talks about soil composition and how the vines are planted.

· 9:30 - Pat talks about Cabernet Pfeffer."


"…Wine Enthusiast Magazine scores:

  • 94 Points & Editor’s Choice - 2017 Cabernet Pfeffer, Wirz Vineyard

  • 91 Points - 2016 Sparkling Riesling, Wirz Vineyard

"…I’d love to discuss more about ‘Wirz Vineyard’ wines with you all on a virtual tasting.

"Friday, May 1st. 5:30-6:30pm

"Email Nicole for the invitation: nicole@serwinery.com "


SER Winery website:
www.serwinery.com

SANTA CLARA VALLEY AND ITS RESOURCES (1896)

The Santa Clara Valley Vineyards section starts at page 257. Fun quote from the intro: “It is a fact that a large part of the California wine shipped abroad finds its way back to this country and is sold under a French label.”

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Wes, I am just now seeing this! What a hoot!

Cool find!!!

In a previous post on this thread, I noted that Margins Wine sources their Mourvedre from a Santa Clara County site called the “Sattler’s Vineyard”.

Margins’ website has added some details about this vineyard.



“Sattler’s Vineyard”

"…Year Planted: 2009
Acres: 2.7
Varietal: Mourvèdre & Counoise
Farming: In winter 2019, one pass of glyphosate (roundup) was sprayed. All other vineyard practices were organic. The vineyard has been in organic conversion since summer 2019.

“Ed Sattler planted his backyard vineyard in 2009 and has been intimately involved in farming it since the beginning. This hot, dry site in the foothills of the southern Santa Cruz Mountains has an intense diurnal swing, bringing cool temperatures every evening and lending to the preservation of acidity in the grapes…”.


Margins Wine website:
https://www.marginswine.com/

Disgorgeous Podcast - Season 8

Episode 101:
“March-ifornia Part 1: All’s Well That Enz Well (A deep dive into the only vineyard in the Lime Kiln AVA with Ian Brand)”
March 9, 2020


"The boys return for the first episode post the 100 ep milestone and they’ve brought along their good friend Ian Brand, to make cryptic dad rock references, trigger Duck and chug Mourvedre…


"LIST

° Birichino Wines, Lime Kiln Valley Mourvedre, Enz Vineyard, ‘Mr Natural VOL 3,’ 2018

° Raj Parr Wines, ‘Anika Mourvedre,’ 2018

° I Brand & Family, Lime Kiln Valley Old Vine Mourvedre, Enz Vineyard, 2018

° I Brand & Family, Lime Kiln Valley Old Vine Mourvedre, Enz Vineyard, 2015

° None Such Wines, Lime Kiln Valley Mourvedres, Enz Vineyard, 2017

° Sandlands, San Benito County, Mataro, 2015"

I happened to see a property for sale on Redfin on Redwood Retreat in west Gilroy that looks to have about 1-2 acres of older head trained vines. Anyone know anything about this property? I am hoping the new owners keep up the vines as they look to be pretty old.

4285 Redwood Retreat Rd. GILROY, CA 95020

Here are a few Google street view shots.

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Sean, I looked up the address on the Assessors website, but was only able to discover limited information. I do not know about the ownership or the end use the vineyard/grapes:

https://www.sccassessor.org/index.php/online-services/property-search/real-property


756-29.pdf (108 KB)

Drew - Thanks for looking into this. I might grab the bike this weekend and ride up there to check it out. So many cool older vineyard plots in this little area.

I’ve seen it driving by and wondered. Being head trained is unconventional and laudable, so seems pretty interesting. Information on what’s grown there and who’s been getting the fruit would be much appreciated.

Supposedly Carignane and Mission, about 100 years old.

-Al

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Thanks for the additional information, Wes & Al!! [cheers.gif]


*** EDIT: Additional Information ***

The site in question was known as the “Rositano Vineyard”, a former old-vine Carignan fruit source for Fernwood Cellars and Alfaro Family Vineyards.


Wine Berserkers
“Santa Clara and San Benito Wine Heritage”
May 16, 2018

From Richard Alfaro: “…‘Rositano Vineyard’ is the remains of a larger vineyard property that was broken up and developed into a housing project (Mc Mansions). Most of the homeowners pulled out the 130+ year old head trained vines and planted new vines (or other landscaping). It is off of Redwood Estates Rd. It is only a couple acres. I get all the fruit (10 barrels in 2017).”


Former Owner: Sean Rositano
4285 Redwood Retreat Road
Gilroy, Santa Clara County, CA, 95020

Thanks! That explains why they look like old vines.

Yesterday, I encountered the website for Coastal Range Vineyards by chance. I do not know much about this farming operation, other than the fact that it appears to work with a large, diverse selection of properties across Santa Cruz Mountains, Santa Clara, Ben Lomond, etc.

Here’s what their website says about the Santa Clara & San Benito region:

"…Below an elevation of 800 ft., the Santa Clara Valley Appellation lies adjacent to the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA. Encompassing the Silicon Valley, this AVA has immense history and is home to many wineries with strong reputations. Less mountainous in topography, we find more alluvial silt loam and deeper, more fertile soils here. Much of the planted acreage in this AVA has gradually been pushed south by the constant urban sprawl, resulting in many small residential vineyards. The versatility of this growing region allows us to plant almost any variety, including cultivars originally from Burgundy, Rhone, Bordeaux, Italy, etc.

“Traveling further south between the Santa Cruz and the Gabilan Ranges, lies the San Benito County AVA. We are just now getting familiar with this dynamic appellation that was made famous by the consistently reputable Calera Wines. Their founder Josh Jensen has secured a sub-appellation for their estate vineyards know as Mt. Harlen as of 1990. We look forward to working with more vineyards in this AVA, as the potential is becoming more and more realized…”.

Coastal Range Vineyards website:
http://coastalrangevineyards.com/

List of Client/Private Vineyards:
http://coastalrangevineyards.com/private-estate-vineyards/

The Winter 2020 Bedrock Wine Company release includes the return of the “Vineyard Under the Mountain” bottling:



"2019 Vineyard Under the Mountain Heritage Wine,
Santa Clara County

“A classic vintage from this exceptional vineyard in Santa Clara County. Composed of Zinfandel and Carignan, with small amounts of Petite Sirah and Grenache, this coolly situated vineyard located north of Hecker Pass rendered a wine of deep color, dense fruit and typical brightness in 2019. Though the planting date is unknown, we are guessing these scant cropping vines (less than 1 ton per acre) were planted sometime in the 1910s or 1920s and are some of the last remaining old vines in a region that was once covered with vineyards.”


Bedrock Wine Company website:
https://bedrockwineco.com/

There is an old-vine site in western Morgan Hill, listed on the Historic Vineyard Society roster, which I was unfamiliar with - until now.


Historic Vineyard Society profile for “Kuchan Estate Lepi Bregi Vineyard”


Old World Spirits / Kuchan Estate Winery website:

“…Kuchan family acquired the Kuchan Cellars Estate vineyard in 2016. It was originally planted in 1925 by the Marchetti family, Italian immigrants. The old vines still produce, low yielding but incredible fruit.”


2017 Kuchan Estate Ancient Vine Zinfandel

"Our Flagship Estate Wine

"The original vineyard was planted in 1925 by the Marchetti family. The gnarly vines are head trained, which means that they have no trellis and are self supporting. Santa Clara Valley and a unique position at the foothill of the Hecker Pass allows hot days and cool nights, with frequent temperature ranging +/- 40 degrees F.

"Rolling hills of ‘Kuchan Estate Lepi Bregi Vineyard’ provide constant breeze, which helps dry the foliage and reduce need for frequent spraying.

"SOIL: ‘Lepi Bregi Vineyard’ is situated on an ancient riverbed, clay loom with large river rocks and excellent drainage. St. George rootstock reaches deep up to 30ft+, allowing for deep extraction of minerals and ground water. Dry farmed for majority of vineyard life…

"The vine (sic) is a blend of 75% Zinfandel, 15% Grenache and 10% Carignane, evocative of Ridge Vineyards’ old vine Zinfandel blends.

"…Zinfandel from ‘Lepi Bregi Vineyards’ is known for its lush red and black fruit aromas, balanced tannins and aromas closer to traditional Croatian roots and style of winemaking. It is picked at the early peak, limiting raisins and dry cherry aromas. Hand picked at 27 Brix, destemmed and fermented with carbonic maceration, not breaking berries and allowing natural yeast to burst berries. Cold soaked on skins for 21 days. Natural malolactic fermentation, 40% new oak, blend of French and American barrels.

“The vineyard sits the foothills of Hecker Pass, with hot days and cool coastal fog mornings from Monterey on an ancient river bed in the heart of Santa Clara Valley wine trail…”.


Kuchan Estate website:

Open Corporates website
Profile: Kuchan Estates, LLC


Historic Vineyard Society website: https://historicvineyardsociety.org/


City of Morgan Hill
Document Center
“Appendix 1: Historic Context Statement Matrix”
(PDF download)

“History Agribusiness - Vineyards” (p.7-12)

Wargin Wines is based in Watsonville, Santa Cruz Mtns AVA, but most of its diverse varieties come from the “Circle S Vineyard”, a Siletto Family property in San Benito County.


Wargin Wines website Shop link:

Wines made from San Benito grapes

· Greco do Tufo Reserve
· Barbara
· Aglianico
· Freisa
· “Big & Beautiful” blend
· Négrette

Wargin Wines YouTube Video:
“Greco di Tufo, Italian Treasure”

June 3, 2020

Wargin Wines website:

*** EDIT ***


According to an article from this Summer, the winery is moving from the Santa Cruz Mtns to the southern Santa Clara Valley:

Pajaronian
“Wargin Wines Moving Production from Watsonville to Gilroy”

by Johanna Miller
June 1, 2021

"…The winery, which was established in December of 2012, was one of the first wineries to settle in the Pajaro Valley in recent years. Wargin kickstarted a number of other ventures in the area, including training El Vaquero Winery’s winemaker Alex Prikazsky.

"…The business will be moving out of its current location at 11 Hangar Way and over the hill to the Atelier des Savants Fous (formerly the Stomping Ground) co-op in Gilroy, where Wargin Wines has maintained a secondary production operation for the past five years.

"…The winery recently took on 10 acres of its own fruit in Santa Clara County—a lot for such a small operation. Santa Clara County, Denise explained, is where the local Italian grape varietals grow**, and Wargin Wines specializes in Italian wines. Having production closer to the vineyards will be beneficial to the business, she said.

“‘In Gilroy… there is a capacity for growth,’ Denise said. ‘We’ll be able to focus on just making more wine, trying different varietals.’…"


Housing and commercial development crowded the operation out of its original plans for a Pajaro Valley expansion. In the future, Denise and Mikael Wargin hope to open a tasting room in the downtown Watsonville area.

** Current bottles of Wargin’s Italianate varietal wines are from the “Circle S Vyd” in San Benito County. Perhaps upcoming vintages will be sourced from Gilroy.