Santa Clara & San Benito Wine Heritage

I find it strange that the San Benito AVA was established after the Lime Kiln AVA and Cienega Valley AVA.


“Establishment of Viticultural Area; San Benito”
[T.D. ATF-258; Ref. Notice No. 628]
52 FR 37135, October 5, 1987

San Benito AVA Petition (PDF download)

“…Petition

"ATF received a petition from Almaden Vineyards, proposing that a portion of San Benito County, California, be established as a viticultural area to be known as ‘San Benito’. The area is located along and near the San Benito River, approximately two miles south of Hollister, California.

"The area contains about 45,000 acres of land, of which approximately 2,500 are planted to grapes. The petitioner stated that at least three major wineries are operating within the area, and that approximately 23 different varieties of winegrapes are grown there.

"The area is located inside the approved ‘Central Coast’ viticultural area, and contains within it the approved ‘Paicines,’ ‘Cienega Valley,’ and ‘Lime Kiln Valley’ areas. (See the discussion of overlapping viticultural areas below, under ‘Boundaries of the Area’.)

“…Name of the Area

"The association of the name ‘San Benito’ with the new viticultural area goes back far into history. The San Benito River flows through the area, and one of the principal streets of nearby Hollister was already called ‘San Benito Street’ in 1874, when the surrounding territory, including the viticultural area, was organized as ‘San Benito County’. (See Crimes and Career of Tiburcio Vasquez, San Benito County Historical Society, pp. nine and seventeen.) The town of San Benito is about 15 miles southeast of the area, and San Benito Mountain is about 30 miles farther southeast, near the source of the San Benito River and the eastern boundary of San Benito County.

"The history of viticulture in the area was described by John P. Ohrwall in a talk given to the San Benito County Historical Society on July 29, 1965. A copy of the talk was submitted to ATF by the petitioner. In that talk, Mr. Ohrwall related that the first vineyard in San Benito County was planted near the new viticultural area by Theophile Vache in the early 1850’s. Other vineyards were planted too, and the area where vineyards were sited became known locally as the ‘Vineyard District’. Before the end of the nineteenth century, the vineyard planted by Vache had been named ‘San Benito Vineyard,’ and, under that name, wines made in the area “were said to have won prizes at various expositions and fairs, including some held in France and Italy” (quote from Ohrwall). Gradually, additional vineyards and wineries were established. In the 1950’s, Almaden Vineyards arrived and began greatly expanding the area’s grape acreage.

"Almaden soon became the dominant grape grower in the area.

"Unfortunately, the original vineyard planted by Theophile Vache is no longer in production, because the soil in that vicinity has become permeated with boron salts. (See the discussion of boron below, under ‘Geography of the Area’.) Thus, the original ‘San Benito Vineyard’ is excluded from the new viticultural area for a geographical reason, but the name that this vineyard gave to the area remains.

"Although there are some scattered grape plantings elsewhere is San Benito County, by far the preponderance ofviticulture in that county is practiced in the viticultural area established by this Treasury decision.

“According to the petitioner, 95 percent of the vinifera grapes from San Benito County are grown in this area. The other 5 percent are grown in other areas with different climates, according to the petitioner, who declared, ‘We are not aware of any other area within San Benito County that could be known as “San Benito” or that would have comparable climatic and growing conditions.’ ATF agrees with these assertions, since it appears likely that much of the other 5 percent of the vinifera in San Benito County is planted in the already-established ‘Pacheco Pass’ viticultural area (located north of Hollister, straddling the border of San Benito and Santa Clara Counties)…”.


I will search for more information about John P. Ohrwall as well as the San Benito County Historical Society.

Here are a few Resources I have located:


San Benito County Historical Society website:

Old & Sold Archive: A View of California Wines & Wineries - “San Benito County”
http://www.oldandsold.com/articles02/santaclara6.shtml


San Benito County Water District Board 2018 - Landowners in San Benito County:

CalWineries: San Benito County

Central Coast Foodie site: “Central Coast American Viticulture Areas”

SanBenitoLimeKilnAVA_thumb-520x245.jpg

I will admit to occasionally equating the Paicines area with Cienega Valley (or the other way around). [scratch.gif] Uh uh:


“Paicines Viticultural Area”

[T.D. ATF-108; Ref: Notice No. 379]
47 FR 35480, August 16, 1982

Paicines AVA Petition (download)


"…Historical and Current Evidence of the Name

"The name of the area, Paicines, was well documented by the petitioner. After evaluating the petition, ATF believes that the Paicines viticultural area has a unique historical identity and that the name Paicines is the most appropriate name for the area.

"Geographical Evidence

"In accordance with 27 CFR 4.25a(e)(2), a viticultural area should possess geographical features which distinguish the viticultural features of the area from surrounding areas.

"Paicines is located about 17 miles north of Pinnacles National Monument and Park and consists of about 4,500 acres of grape-growing area. On the western side are the Cienega Vineyards and the Gabilan Mountain Range which separate Paicines from San Lucas and King City. The San Luis Dam and Pacheco are on the northeast side, and new Idria and the Panoche Valley are on the eastern edge. The San Benito River forms a portion of the western boundary and continues on through the vineyards.

"The Paicines area is in a wind tunnel of cool ocean air flowing to the San Joaquin Valley. Because of the relative lack of trees adjacent to the vineyard areas, the Paicines area is open to the direct influence of these winds. In the afternoon, Paicines takes advantage of the slight cooling breeze that comes in off the Monterey Valley. At night Paicines is more protected from the evening fog than much of the surrounding area because of its open location. However, during periods of extremely heavy fog, the Paicines area holds the fog longer than much of the nearby area, including Cienega Valley.

"Elevation ranges from 500 feet to 1,200 feet above sea level. The average elevation is lower than much of the
surrounding area which is closer to the Gabilan Mountain Range. The rainfall pattern in the Paicines area differs greatly from the area surrounding the Gabilan Mountain Range. Due to the greater distance of the Paicines area from the Gabilan Mountains, Paicines often gets less rain than much of the area closer to the Gabilan Mountain Range. Annual rainfall in the Paicines area is between 12 and 15 inches.

"During winter the relative humidity in the Paicines area is more than 50 percent most of the time. In spring the
relative humidity averages 60 to 75 percent at night and 40 to 50 percent during the day. Summers are quite dry; the average relative humidity in the daytime is about 20 to 25 percent. In fall, readings of 45 to 60 percent are common at night, but during the day readings generally range from 30 to 50 percent. The 10-year average temperature is around 2750 degree-days.

“The Paicines area is comprised of various soil associations including Sorrento, Mocho, Clear Lake, Willows, Rincon, Antioch, Diablo, Soper, San Benito and Linne. The various soils in this area are generally well drained, of various depths, and root zones are quite deep. There are some steady alluvial fans and terrace escarpments with rapid runoff…”



From the Puma Road website:

"The Paicines AVA (American Viticultural Area) in San Benito County is a hidden gemstone in the world of wine. Although not the most commonly known, it is the seventh oldest of more than 120 distinct AVAs in California, and produces unique varietals and award winning wines of exquisite quality.

"Paicines sits directly east of Monterey County, just on the eastern flank of the Gavilan Mountains.

“…The soils and climate of this area are similar to certain areas of the Mediterranian: mineral-rich and generally semi-arid. The dry heat of Paicines creates big, bold wines with hints of spice and minerality from the abundance of quartz in the soil.”

The Paicines AVA in San Benito County does not receive much attention. However, many acres are devoted to the cultivation of winegrapes. Multiple wineries, large and small, source a broad range of varieties from these plantings.


CalWineries website
“Paicines Wine Country”

"…Paicines Wine Country has the warmest climate in San Benito County. One of the major reasons for this heat is the fact that the AVA is less elevated than other nearby wine regions. This causes vineyards to stay warmer overnight, but coastal breezes sill cool the region enough for high-quality grape growing.

“The terrain of Paicines Wine Country is the main reason for these cooling breezes. The 4,500 acre wine region acts as a funnel for coastal wind moving east to Central Valley. The San Benito River runs through the region and has deposited alluvium into the soils over the years.”


CalWineries website
“The Impact of Climate on Paicines Grape Growing”

_"There are large temperature swings from day to night in the Paicines AVA. It has been known to drop from over 100 degrees Fahrenheit during the day to under 50 degrees at night.

"This is one of the driest wine regions in California. Annual rainfall is only about 12 inches a year; several times lower than most other AVAs in the state. It is particularly dry in fall, right before harvest. This allows growers to let their grapes hang on the vine for a substantial period of time. Humidity is extremely low, and is rarely over 25% in the day during the growing season.

“Wind is the most important climatic feature of Paicines…”.


Additional Paicines AVA Info on CalWineries website:

“The Soil & Terrain of Paicines Wine Country”

“Paicines Wine Country History”

“Wineries in Paicines”

The following resources explore the Santa Clara/Santa Cruz region’s families, businesses, communities, etc, of ~100 years ago.


Mariposa Research: The Valley of Heart’s Delight site
“Thomas and Henriette Pellier Casalegno”
Transcribed by Marie Clayton, from Eugene T. Sawyers’ History of Santa Clara County, California (1922)
Publisher: Historic Record Co. (p. 471)

“Henriette Pellier Casalegno, whose second husband was Thomas Casalegno, was the widow of John Mirassou, and the couple’s biographies printed on this webpage explore some of the Pellier family’s work with importing grapevines into Santa Clara County, California.”

More Biographies from California’s Pioneer Families of Santa Clara County

History of Santa Clara County
Website Search Results: “Vineyards”

Example: "Thomas Kerwin…is the owner of a beautiful farm of 100 acres, on the Saratoga and Mountain View road, in the Lincoln School District, about five miles southwest of Santa Clara.

“Sixty-five acres are in vineyard, producing the following varieties of wine grapes: Cabernets, Malbec, Golden Chasselas, Grenache, Carignan, Matero, Zinfandel, Trousseau, and Charbano…”.


*** EDIT ***

Google Books
Polk’s San Jose City & Santa Clara County Directory (1909)
R. L. Polk & Company, San Jose

San Jose Library
Digital Collections
1920 San Jose City and Santa Clara County Directory
Contributors: Millard Brothers
Published by Polk-Husted Directory Company

“A Review of San Jose and Santa Clara County” p.14
by Joseph T. Brooks, Dept of Commerce

Text Search Results: “Vineyard”

University of California Calisphere
California Digital Library
Collection: History San Jose Online Catalog
Owning Institution: History San Jose Research Library

Search Results:

“Vineyard”

“Wine”

“Winery”


University of California, Santa Cruz
McHenry Library
“Wine History in Santa Cruz County, 1835 to Present” (1982)
by Michael R. Holland
Senior thesis (available only on-site)

Santa Cruz Sentinel, Vol. 126, No. 154, (p. 42)
“Area Digest: ‘Wine History in Santa Cruz County: 1835 to the Present’”
July 2, 1981

‘Wine History in Santa Cruz County: 1835 to the Present,’ a free exhibit at UCSC’s McHenry Library, will continue through the month of July. The exhibit was scheduled to end last month, but library officials decided they’d like it to remain longer on the library’s main floor, according to Michael Holland, the UCSC graduate who put the exhibit together. The collection of historical documents and photographs of the year’s when winemaking was big business in this county can be seen at the library from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays, from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Fridays, and from 1 to 5 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays.”

If one encounters an article or tasting note mentioning the “Besson Vineyard”, do not be confused. Yes, the Besson family owns two separate centennarian vineyards in Santa Clara Valley, both referred to as the “Besson Vyd”.

The most frequently praised is the older, Grenache-based vineyard along Hecker Pass Road in Gilroy. The second property, almost exclusively Zinfandel, was planted in the 1920s, and is near Uvas Creek.


The following 2014 Wine Berserkers thread, dedicated to Mr TomHill’s TN of the 1989 “Clos du Gilroy” from Bonny Doon Vineyards, includes (older & newer) discussions about the “Besson Vineyard”:

Wine Berserkers forum
“TN: BonnyDoon Clos de Gilroy Grenache '89…(short/boring)”

d03db7e8446e32f257d39c813d81c159_750x600.jpg
Some current producers of “Besson” vineyard-designated wines:

A Tribute to Grace: Grenache

Birichino: Grenache, Zinfandel, “NV Hommage a Georges Besson” (solera system, appassimento-style Grenache)

Calera: Chardonnay

Carini: Grenache (inaugural release just made available)

La Marea: Grenache

Sarah’s Vineyard: Syrah, Zinfandel

Stephania: Syrah

Other wineries who have offered vineyard-designated “Besson” reds & whites in the recent past: Monte Verde Winery (2009 Grenache), Odonata (Grenache Blanc, Grenache, Syrah), etc.


Edible Silicon Valley
“Great Wine Starts in the Vineyard”
by Mary Orlin
August 22, 2018


"…Third-generation grower George Besson Jr. looks out over the 30-acre vineyard his grandfather bought in the 1940s in the Santa Clara Valley. ‘You’ve got to baby these grapes, they’ve been around so long,’ he says.

"Eleven of the 30 acres are 118-year-old Grenache vines planted on the Valley floor in 1910. They’ve been dry farmed and organically farmed ever since. ‘Besson Vineyard’ is one of Santa Clara Valley’s few remaining heritage vineyards, and the family works hard to preserve vines that produce more concentrated, elegant wines.

"… The Besson family sells their Grenache grapes to local wineries. But there was a time when Grenache was not an easy sell. Then Bonny Doon winemaker Randall Grahm came along. Randall bought fruit from the Bessons for about 25 years under a long-term contract, when no one else was offering that.

“‘I remember him understanding the value of what we were doing and how that culminated into the bottle,’ says Besson’s daughter, Denise. ‘That was a big deal for our family. As farmers, it’s an ebb and flow and a struggle. There are some years you are paid top dollar a ton and other years you get less.’

“…‘When people say "Oh, that’s too expensive for a bottle of wine,’ George says, ‘they don’t realize all the love and care that goes into that bottle’…”.

Edible Silicon Valley
Article Gallery



Besson Family Vineyards website:

Historic Vineyard Society profile:
· “Besson (Grenache)”

· “Besson (Zinfandel)”

One mysterious, newer producer sourcing fruit from the old vineyards in San Benito County is Kobza Wines. I have not received any response to an email I sent a little while back.


The following article has probably been discussed in this thread before, but, as it is one of the few pieces on Mr Ryan Kobza’s winery, I must make use of it here.*


SF Gate
“The New Taste of Monterey County Wine”
By Mark C. Anderson
June 10, 2016


"…[Ryan Kobza] took on internships in Napa (Chateau Montelena) and Sonoma (Sonoma-Cutrer). Today he works with Ian Brand on Brand’s dynamic portfolio of wines and shares a similar outlook on what can grow in the region. ‘It’s a large area with a lot of different pockets that will produce things better than others,’ he says. ‘We’re not just producing huge amounts of Chardonnay, but interesting stuff from people willing to take a chance and do something different.’ He tends a couple of acres of Pinot at ‘Suncoft Vineyards’, 1,200 feet up, next to Albatross Ridge in Carmel Valley. He’s also mildly obsessed with ancient vines — including a Riesling sourced from Wirz in San Benito’s Cienega Valley and a rosé from the rare Mourtaou grape. $18-$28/bottle…"

download.jpeg
GrapeLive, a blog impressive in its breadth of wine selections as well as educational (and descriptive) tasting notes, features a couple of Kobza wines:


GrapeLive
GrapeLive “Wine of the Day August 18, 2018”

• 2016 Kobza, “Old Vine Field Blend Red” (Mourvedre/Zinfandel) “Wirz Vineyard”, Cienega Valley, San Benito County


"Ryan Kobza’s 110-year-old vine field blend from Pat Wirz’s historic vines…is wonderfully fresh and easy in the glass, completely different than what I had been expecting from this blend of mostly Mourvedre (close to 60%) and Zinfandel (about 40%) along with small percentages of Rose of Peru, Mourtaou (Cabernet Pfeffer), and the occasional cluster of Palomino, it’s a light to medium bodied wine that reminds me of an old world country wine.

"…The
[“Wirz Vineyard”] Riesling, a 50 year block that he also uses to make a dry example, is planted in a single contiguous block along a small creek, while the reds here are an inter-planted, bush vine field blend of Zinfandel, Mourtaou (known also as Cabernet Pfeffer), Mourvedre, and Carignan with the super rare Rose of Peru and Palomino (the Sherry white grape) occasionally interspersed within.

"Inspired by underlined varietals in Italy as well as the new generation of winemakers that are exploring old style wines in Sicily, like Gulfi, Occhipinti and others. Ryan mentions he wants to make wines that have rustic charm and compliment simple meals, he cites his love of bright Barbera from Piedmonte as a guiding light wine with it’s juicy nature and vibrant acidity that allows easy drinking and with enough structure to age, and with this reference in mind it really helps to understand his wines in the bottle, especially this one. Kobza adds ‘I also just have a penchant for the odd, under-appreciated and forgotten grapes, (like) Schiopettino, Nero d’Avola, Frappato, etc. There an endless number of grapes from which to make wine and so many have unique and intriguing characteristics worthy of exploration.’

"I really enjoy this fun wine with it’s joyous energy and delicacy, it almost reminds me of a Beaujolais meets Frappato! Kobza’s old vine red starts with a burst of concord grape, earth, spice and briar notes with subtle floral and game leading to a palate that includes black raspberry, strawberry, macerated cherry and wild plum fruits along with crushed stones, leather, minty herb/anise, cinnamon and peppery notes. Tangy and natural in style, Kobza used about 15% whole cluster, it was all co-fermented and aged in well seasoned French barriques, this wine joins a growing list of intriguing lighter style California reds that are gaining a following from adventurous young wine drinkers…

“…Drink this ‘Old Vine Field Blend’ over the next 3-to-5-years, it, by the way gains depth and personality with extended air, I liked it as it changed in the glass over an hour and it was even more interesting and gripping the next day, impressive stuff, give it a chance/time to show it’s best and have it with robust cuisine.
($25 Est.) 92 Points, grapelive”

Kobza_1500x1000_5.jpg
GrapeLive
"GrapeLive “Wine of the Day August 19, 2018”

• 2016 Kobza, Rosé of Mourtaou (Cabernet Pfeffer) “100 Year Old Vines”, “Wirz Vineyard”, Cienega Valley, San Benito County


"Coming off the heritage vineyard site Wirz Vineyard in the Cienega Valley, the Kobza Mourtaou Rosé is one of California’s most rare and unique wines, vaguely similar to the Clos Cibonne Tibouren, that legendary Cotes de Provence Rosé that is known for it’s cellaring potential.

"… The average vine age for Kobza’s Rosé of Mourtauo…approximately 100 years old, pretty unique for a pink, and he treats this wine in an old school way, in a nod to tradition, he foot-tread (stomped) the grapes (pigeage) and he let sit overnight before pressing and cold-settling for 24 hours, then juice is all natively fermented (with no yeast additions) in neutral (well seasoned) used French puncheons with a touch of malo, but not allowed to finish to keep freshness. The wine is racked once and get a small dose of sulfur, then gets bottled quickly with bottle aging to allow it’s complexity to show upon release, which this 2016 vintage does! The ruby/pink and orange tinted color invites comparisons to a Spanish rosado, it’s a fair bit darker than most Provence inspired or Provence versions of Rosé, but the palate is vivid and dry with lovely round layers that deliver complexity, spice, earth and tangy fruit.

“…Kobza’s Moutauo Rosé is still juicy fresh, but has developed a creamy mouth feel and richness of flavor with wild strawberry, candied orange rind, cherry and a touch of plum water along with subtle spices, earth and wet rock with a refined sense of acidity, this is a food wine and a bit rustic by nature, best to enjoy with outdoor meals when this chilled Rosé can refresh and thrill the palate in it’s element, it also has a decent shelf life and it doesn’t seems as mature as you’d expect, enjoy over the next year.
($20 Est.) 91 Points, grapelive”[/I]


\

  • The SF Gate article also mentions the work of Mr Ian Brand (I. Brand & Family, Le P’tit Paysan, La Marea, etc.), Russell Joyce (Joyce Vineyards), Denis Hoey (Odonata Wines), as well as Emily Hunt (Drench Wines) and Miguel Lepe (Lepe Cellars).

Hardy Wallace of Dirty & Rowdy Family Wines posted this YouTube video using a drone-cam fly-over:



Dirty & Rowdy: “Enz Vineyard Mourvèdre

Dirty & Rowdy Family WinesEnz Vineyard” 1st Round of Picking (sun is up around 0:40):

Several new producers of wines from the “Enz Vineyard” will be emerging in the coming year…



Vocal Vineyards:

Vöcal came to life in 2012 when the ‘Lilo Vineyard’ Pinot Noir became available. Ian Brand and I had been conspiring to do something together, neither of us knew what, but something… 2013 our first harvest in ‘Lilo’ was almost perfect, beautiful fruit: character, structure and tension. In 2014 Richard Alfaro generously asked us to participate in the first harvest of the new planting of Grüner Veltliner in his Vineyard also in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Today we also produce Cabernet and Gros Verdot from the historic ‘Bates Ranch’ and ‘Enz Vineyards’, respectively.”


"2017 ENZ VINEYARD ‘SABROSO’

"100% Gros Verdot & 100% whole cluster fermented native in concrete. This is one of the lost Bordeaux vartieties not replanted after phylloxera. Locally known as Cabernet Pfeffer, these are 35yr old organic and dry farmed vines. The Lime Kiln Valley AVA is known only for the vineyards planted by the Enz family originally in 1895 and 1922. It is an important site for California viticulture and a key expression of how the San Andreas faultline influences the region. The 2016 winter was the year that broke the drought so there was more fruit and leaf growth with healthier production overall and just remanents of vine stress from the drought. ‘Sabroso’ is a Spanish word that translates to ‘tasty’. Enjoy fresh or with a slight chill.

"METHOD

HARVEST 09 / 19 / 17
WHOLE CLUSTER IN CEMENT TANK WITH CO2
5 DAYS CARBONIC MACERATION 9 BARRELS MADE
IN BARREL FOR 8 MONTHS BOTTLED MAY 2018"_




More to Come…

Drew,
Vocal is a project that I’m a partner in, and the Sabroso is a wine I made. The connection to Gros Verdot is based on a genetic test Ken Volk ran ten years ago. Given the volume of genetic mapping done ten years ago, I think it’s reasonable to assume the test imprecise. I’ve asked that copy be revised. As far as I can tell, Cabernet Pfeffer isn’t 100% anything, but a blend of reds based around an unknown grape with a bordeaux style leaf and including some Cabernet Sauvignon, Trousseau Noir, and a handful of other things. We’ll be pulling more information from the Mother Block on Enz next spring.
It’s a lovely wine, though – a really zippy expression of the place and grape.
Ian

1 Like

Thank you very much for your contributions on both the Vocal/VöcalEnz Vineyard” “Sabroso” wine and additional details about the enigmatic varieties of San Benito County!!!



BTW, if anybody needs some rocks, the “Enz Vineyard” owners operate Vineyard Rock Products.

No wonder It’s the “Lime Kiln Valley”! :wink:

I discovered this neat non-wine related website in my ongoing quest for information about the Santa Clara & San Benito wine culture:


Ride Chronicles
“San Juan Batista Southside -Tres Pinos - Cienega Valley”
by Nancy Yu
February 22, 2015


Ride #4-SJB: This route heads east from San Juan Valley on CA-156 to Union Rd and turns SE on Southside Rd to the town of Tres Pinos. Continue through the rolling valley and bluffs on CA-25 to Paicines and meander through the Cienaga Wine Trail along the quiet beautiful Cienaga Valley on Cienega Rd. Climb up Bonanza Gulch along the east side of Hollister Hill SV Park before descending back into San Juan Valley.”

dscn6913.jpg
"…The road heads further south for another 1.1 mile towards the rolling hillside vineyards at Pebble Ridge Vineyards and Donati Family Vineyard to Cienaga Rd.

dscn6914.jpg
"…We turn right onto Cienaga Rd; this road follows the San Benito County Wine Trail through the beautiful Cienaga Valley. The road begins with a flat jaunt through the scenic valley vineyards and farmlands.

dscn6943.jpg
"‘The Vineyards of San Benito County are tucked away in a nurturing micro climate ideal for producing premium wines. Regional geology, geography and climate combine to create an optimal wine-growing region. Cool ocean breezes flow into the area from nearby Monterey Bay. During the summer months, when other wine growing regions suffer from high temperaatures, the vineayrds of San Benito County benefit from the refreshing gentle winds.’

http://www.sanjuanbautistaca.com/tours/images/vines_wineries_map_info.pdf

"…At Grass Valley Rd, the road kicks up for a climb through Sulphur Canyon to the summit at Calera Wine Company; it’s 0.9 mile with an average grade of 4.3%.

dscn7052.jpg
“…Cienaga Rd continues along the Wine Trail to De Rose Vineyards and Peitra Santa Winery.”

dscn7061.jpg
“San Juan Batista Southside: Tres Pinos - Cienega Valley”


Ride Chronicles: “Cycling and hiking through the ‘Seasons of Life’. Loving it, living it and sharing it!”:

The Winery-Sage website includes a comprehensive list of wineries and a collection of blog posts featuring visits to numerous tasting rooms. I recommend that travelers check it out prior to embarking on similar journeys. [thumbs-up.gif]


Winery-Sage
“Wine Travels: The Santa Clara Valley (part 1)”
by Karen and Ken
November 3, 2012


"Wineries Visited

Lightheart Cellars – production: 1,000 cases

Clos LaChance Winery (we forgot to get the total production on this one – hey no one’s perfect)

Sycamore Creek Vineyards – production: 2,500 cases

Aver Family Vineyards – production: 1,200 cases

Jason Stephens Winery – production: 15,000 cases



Winery-Sage
“Wine Travels: The Santa Clara Valley (Part 2)”
November 30, 2012
by Karen – Ken – Ed (A friend of Karen and Ken’s from South Carolina)


"Wineries Visited


Kirigin Cellars – production: 3,600 cases

Fortino Winery – production: 15,000 cases

Sarah’s Vineyard – production: 5,000 cases

Solis Winery – production: 4,500 cases"

An email from Harrington Wines announces the release of numerous bottlings from one San Benito County vineyard:


_"NEW RELEASES:

• 2017 Grenache Blanc, ‘Siletto Vineyard’, San Benito County
• 2017 ‘Tempesta’, a Corvina and Pinot Noir blend, Calfornia
• 2017 Trousseau, ‘Siletto Vineyard’, San Benito County
• 2016 Grenache, ‘Siletto Vineyard’, San Benito County
• 2016 ‘SubRosa’, ‘Sumu Kaw Vineyard’, El Dorado County
• 2017 Cabernet Franc, ‘Cedar Crest Vineyard’, Manton Valley
• 2015 Nebbiolo, ‘Luna Matta Vineyard’, Paso Robles
• NV ‘Twelve Moons’, Greco di Tufo, Malvasia & Moscato blend, California


"Grenache Blanc, ‘Siletto Vineyard’, San Benito County, 2017, 48 cases

"Located southeast of Hollister in a remote valley of the Gavilan Mountains, this wine is sourced from the ‘Siletto Vineyard’. The well-drained alluvial soil is a mix of sand, limestone and granite. The block of Grenache Blanc is grown on 50 degree slope known as the “ski slope.” The grapes for this wine were picked early (19 degrees brix) so this not your usual flabby, fru-fru Grenache Blanc. The wine is firm, with green apple and citrus flavors. With amped-up acidity and a decent bit of granitic grip, this is a perfect wine to lay down or to enjoy with that holiday turkey.


"‘Tempesta’, Corvina (76%) + Pinot Noir (24%) blend, California 2017, 50 cases

"The ‘Tempesta’ blend is comprised of Corvina sourced from the ‘Heirloom Ranch’ in Lodi and Pinot Noir from the ‘Siletto Vineyard’. Corvina-based wines tend to be translucent red, lighter in body with spicy, complex aromatics and flavors. There is little, if any oak influence as the wine was cellared in neutral oak barrels. Displays dried strawberry, roses, cherry liqueur and raw almond aromas. Rounded flavors of red berries, red licorice, cherry tobacco and black tea intermingle. A rich, loose, glycerin mouthfeel propels a long, fruit-filled finish. Best served chilled.


"Trousseau, ‘Siletto Vineyard’, San Benito County, 2017, 100 cases

"Located southeast of Hollister in a remote valley of the Gavilan Mountains, the ‘Siletto Vineyard’ is an on-going, experimental site for the new and unusual. The well-drained, alluvial soil is a mix of sand, limestone and granite from the surrounding Gavilan Mountains. The Trousseau was fermented 100% in stainless steel tanks to preserve freshness. The no-oak cellaring seems perfectly suited for a wine that already has an intriguing woodsy, brambly component. Medium-bodied, this wine displays a dark-for-Trousseau color. Singular, alluring aromatics of dried flowers, red fruits, pepper and loam. Flavors of wild strawberries, currants and rhubarb with precise, beautifully-contoured tannins. Still a very youthful wine but ready to drink with holiday meals. Serve slightly chilled (20 min in fridge).


"Grenache, ‘Siletto Vineyard’, San Benito County 2016, 100 cases

"The Grenache is sourced from vineyard located on a steep hill of uplifted, granite river stones. The wine is packed with complex aromatics of orange rind, lavender, white pepper, smoke and flint. Expect earthy flavors of raspberry, red cherry and dried baking spices. The wine is medium-bodied with a fleshy, persistent finish. Open and let the bottle sit for an hour at least. Like the ‘SubRosa’, this wine has the right stuff for aging. Perfect with grilled or braised meats like beef, veal, pork, chicken and, of course, game. Cassoulet? Yessir!



"PURCHASE
To order, please download the ‘FALL 2018 Order Form’:

http://www.chateau.harringtonwine.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/2018-fall-order-form.jpg\

"10% discount will be applied to all full case purchases (mixed cases also).


"EVENTS

"Harrington Open Housestomper

"Please join us at our first Open House in three years. We will be opening a bevy of rare beauties for this one. There will be the usual table of older vintages, a few barrel samples and big table of recent, currently available wines. There will also be a pallet of various older wines we will be blowing out for $100/case. First come, first serve on those mixed cases. There will be a number of more well-known wines such as Pinot Noir and Cabernet but also come taste many rare wines such as Alvarelhao, Ribolla Gialla (skin-fermented in amphora), Gamay, the new 2018 Mission, Corvina, Falanghina and a wine we are calling ‘Misteri’ for now as it is sourced from a grapevine that we brought back from Mt Etna and planted at ‘Sumu Kaw Vineyard’. We thought the vine was Nerello Mascalese, but it has turned out to be a true ‘mystery’ grape. After DNA testing, it matches nothing in the viticultural data base, but hey, we don’t care as the wine is absolutely delicious. Come taste for yourself.

When: Sunday, December 9, 12 - 4 pm
Cost: $20 at the door
Where: 1559 Custer Ave, San Francisco
For the Open House date only, a 10% discount will be applied to all full case purchases.

"Slow Wine World Tour 2019

"The winery and our 2017 Mission wine were recently awarded two prizes from the Slow Foods organization: 2019 SLOW WINE PRIZE and the 2019 SNAIL WINE PRIZE. The Slow Wine Prize is awarded to wines that represent an expression of place, originality, and history. The Snail Prize is awarded to wineries whose values (high quality wines, originality, respect for the land and environment) align with the Slow Food movement. While it is an honor to be gathered together with a select group of fine wineries, one of the benefits of receiving the recognition is being asked to join a series of Slow Wine tastings in the following cities. We plan to be pour our wines at all of the tastings, so come join us.

"The tour will be visiting the following U.S. cities:
\

  • San Francisco 3/4/19
  • Portland 3/5/2019
  • Denver 3/7/2019
  • New York 3/11/2019
  • Boston 3/12/2019

    "Check the Slow Food website for more details:
    http://www.slowfood.it/slowine/en/\

    "Thank you for your continued interest in the wines. Questions? Please feel free to contact me.


    Bryan Harrington

    Harrington Wines
    205 Nevada Street
    San Francisco, CA 94110
    415.652.9655 "_

bh@harringtonwine.com
www.harringtonwine.com


Winery-Sage
“Wine Travels: Cienega Valley & Hollister”
by Karen and Ken
October 21, 2012


"Wineries Visited:

Calera
De Rose
Pietra Santa
Leal Vineyards


"…Details:

"San Benito County wineries are a study in contrast. On one hand, Calera and De Rose were established decades ago by winemakers with clear visions of producing Old World style wines in California. On the other hand, Leal and Pietra Santa embody the spirit of a new generation of wineries, producing California style wines, more fruit forward, and often bigger than their old world ancestors…

"…Our trip started at Calera Winery, founded by one of California’s rare visionary winemakers, Josh Jensen. I was really looking forward to visiting Calera because if any one can truly lay claim to being the father of California Pinot Noir and Viognier, it’s Jensen…Calera produces mainly the Burgundian wines, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay but also is known for its Viognier.

"…On to De Rose with our ever-present legion of fruit flies where Pat De Rose and his family have been producing wines since the 1980’s. In addition to their Estate and other local wines, they partner with wineries in Europe and South America to produce wines there for import into the US. Both Karen’s and my favorite was the ‘Dry Farmed Zinfandel’ produced from 109-year-old vines. It had hints of leather as well as the spice normally associated with ‘Old Vine Zin’. The fruit flies didn’t venture an opinion of their favorite. According to our host, De Rose dry farms all of their vines.


"…Peitra Santa* is a newer winery located less than a mile behind De Rose. It’s a beautiful building surrounded by vineyards. In the back, the vineyards are planted on the steep slopes of the hills creating a stunning backdrop. The staff was friendly and helpful and it’s a great place to picnic.

"There are two other wineries listed on the Cienega Valley signs, Enz and Summerayne. We were told they are not active so don’t waste your time driving the extra 4 ½ miles to get to them.

“Leaving our intrepid band of Fruit Fly followers behind, we moved on to Leal, which is as modern as Calera is traditional. It’s located about 15 minutes North East of the other three and East of downtown Hollister. The tasting room is chic and the recently installed wine dispenser is very high tech (although I’m not sure if it really contributes to the wine tasting experience). The grounds are beautiful and above the winery, there are Bocci Ball courts and spacious picnic grounds partially shaded by Olive trees. Both Karen and I liked the ‘Carneval’ best, a Meritage blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec…”



*** Pietra Santa’s esrate has been sold, and is now home to Eden Rift.**

Ryan Kobza has worked alongside celebrated winemaker Ian Brand for several years. He also makes a very small amount of red and rosé wines from old-growth vineyards for his eponymous label.

Stacy Briscoe is one of my favorite online wine tasting bloggers. Many up-and-coming producers’ bottlings are represented among the countless tasting notes. Below are the Briscoe Bites TN’s for Kobza Wines:


Briscoe Bites
“Kobza Wines 2016 ‘Wirz Vineyard’ Red Field Blend”
by Stacy L Briscoe
October 5, 2018

"This is my first taste of Kobza Wines, but not my first taste of Ryan Kobza’s wines. He’s winemaker for the previously reviewed Big Sur Vineyards Chardonnay and Big Sur Vineyards red blend. Ryan was kind enough to send me a sampling of wines under his eponymous label and I started with this red blend.

Kobza-Wines-2016-Red-Field-Blend-e1537319530388.jpg
"…About the Wine: The Kobza Wines 2016 ‘Wirz Vineyard’ Red Field Blend is a field blend made of approximately 60% Mourvedre and 40% Zinfandel, with a small percentage of Kobza Wines Rosé of Mourtaou and an ‘occasional cluster’ of Palomino. The grapes are sourced from ‘Poison Oak Hill’ in the ‘Wirz Vineyard’, located in Salinas, California.

"After harvest, grapes were pressed and settled overnight. The wine then aged in neutral barrel for 10 months before racking off the lees, returning to the same neutral barrels.

“…On the palate the Kobza Wines 2016 ‘Wirz Vineyard’ Red Field Blend is soft, warm, smooth but for that confident acidity that adds a thin line that pierces as covertly as a sewing needle. The finish is all-in-all clean with just a small bit of heat at the very center of the tongue. Dominant flavors are of blackberry, boysenberry preserves, a hint of mint, an almost volcanic rock minerality, with nearly not after taste—the wine is just that clean…”



“Kobza Wines 2016 ‘Wirz Vineyard’ Dry Riesling”
October 3, 2018

"…About the Wine: Kobza Wines 2016 ‘Wirz Vineyard’ Dry Riesling is made from 100% Riesling grapes harvested from the ‘Wirz Ranch’ in Salinas, California. According to Kobza, these are the youngest plantings on the Ranch at 50 years old.

"…Flavor Profile: Pop the cork of the Kobza Wines 2016 ‘Wirz Vineyard’ Dry Riesling and breathe in subtle stone fruit scents like apricot and peach, interwoven with an undeniable floral aroma.

“…Initial aromas are quite similar to those sensed from the bottle, revealing those soft stone fruits, floral aromas, along with a wet, green herby scent. Swirl, and bring forward a bit more freshness to those fruit notes and add to them a subtle background of citrus, more of that wet grass or herb scent, and, again, that undeniable floral aroma that just makes you think Riesling…”


**
“Kobza Wines 2016 ‘Wirz Vineyard’ Mourtaou Rosé”**
October 1, 2018

IMG_0494-e1537318867819.jpg
"…About the Wine: Kobza Wines 2016 ‘Wirz Vineyard’ Mourtaou Rosé is made from 100% Mourtaou grapes, more commonly known as Cabernet Pfeffer. However, Cabernet Pfeffer itself may not be ‘commonly known’.

"The grape hails from the Girornde region in France. For a long time, it was thought to be a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Trousseau. However, the grapes from the ‘Wirz Vineyard’, where Ryan Kobza gets his grapes for this rosé, were sent to UC Davis for DNA testing in 2015. What they found was that the Cabernet Pfeffer submitted is a ‘synonym’ for both Mourtaou and Gros Verdot—another seemingly ‘lost’ French variety.

"According to Kobza, the plantings on the ‘Wirz Ranch’ date from 1903 to 1921, Making the average fine age for the rosé approximately 100 years old.

"…Flavor Profile: Pop the cork on the Kobza Wines 2016 ‘Wirz Vineyard’ Mourtaou Rosé and breathe in distinct aromas of apples, apple blossoms, strawberry shortcake, watermelon, and agave.

"…The palate of the Kobza Wines 2016 ‘Wirz Vineyard’ Mourtaou Rosé is soft and round at the front. The background has a light but certain texture. The acidity is evenly distributed, zipping through from start to finish. A white pepper spice lingers on the tongue, leaving the taste buds at attention and ready for another experience. Dominant flavors are, yes, of red apple and its skins, underripe wild strawberry, a river water minerality, a background of white chocolate.

“…For more information about Kobza Wines, Ryan, and to inquire about purchasing, please visit the Kobza Wines website.”



*** EDIT ***

Here is a different blogger’s impression of Ryan Kobza’s wine, this time for his 2015 Cienega Valley Rosé.

Culinary Adventures with Cam
“Tasting Notes: Kobza Rosé”

by Camilla M. Mann
July 24, 2017

"…My first rule for a Rosé is that it must be charming, but charming in the je ne sais quoi way - the sly, sideways glance kinda charming - not the Disney Prince kinda charming. This one hits charming out the park.

“It has an impressive earthiness with a subtle acidity. The notes of tart grapefruit and honeyed peach shockingly do not compete; instead they meld seamlessly for a complex flavor profile that pleases from beginning to the end. It’s curvy, fresh, and quickly cemented itself as one of my favorite summer sips.”


Kobza Wines website:

Finally… the folks at EveryVine have added some vineyards in the San Benito AVA!


http://www.everyvine.com/wine-regions/region/San_Benito/


Here’s some of the information provided in the overview:

"Official Name: San Benito AVA
Designation: American Viticultural Area

"Location
Countries: United States of America
States: California
Counties: San Benito

"Statistics Updated: December 2, 2018

"GRAPE PRODUCTION
Vineyards: 10
Total Area: 47,433 acres
Planted Area: 3,680 acres
Percent Planted: 7.8 %
Most Common Grape Varietal: Zinfandel


Top Vineyards

Donati Family Vineyard

Blossom Hill Vineyards

Bayly Ranch Vineyard

Oak Hill Ranch Vineyard

Pietra Santa Vineyards

DeRose Vineyards

Gimelli Vineyards

Vista Verde Vineyard

Gillian Enz

Circle S Vineyard



Now, if they’ll do the same for a couple of other California winegrape-growing regions…

EveryVine website:
http://www.everyvine.com

While I was surveying the vineyards listed under EveryVine’s “Top Ten” San Benito mapped sites, I noticed that the “Gillian Enz Vineyard” is posted as the property of Berntsen Family Wines LLC:


From EveryVine:

Gillian Enz Vineyard”:
http://www.everyvine.com/org/Berntsen_Family_Wines_LLC/vineyard/Gillian_Enz/

"Vineyard Overview
Organization: Berntsen Family Wines LLC

"Vineyard: ‘Gillian Enz’
Planted Area: 3.53 acres
Established: 1998

“Address:
770 Limekiln Rd
Hollister, CA, 95023

Grape Profile:
Grape Details:
Varietals: Zinfandel
Vine Age: 20 years (average)
Wine Regions: Central Coast, Cienega Valley, Lime Kiln Valley, San Benito

Planted Areas of this Vineyard (1)
Block: GENZ1 (3.53 acres)
Grape: Zinfandel
879.92 ft., Hanford, Pacheco, Sheridan…”



I performed an internet search for “Berntsen Family Wines” and found this article:

San Benito Live
“New Business Listings: March 8-15”
March 16, 2018


“The following are new businesses that filed fictitious business statements with San Benito County from March 8-March 15:

Name: Berntsen Family Wines / Wildeye Winery/ Winero Consulting

Filed by: Berntsen Family Wines, LLC

Address: 60 Brown Road, San Juan Bautista…”



An additional announcement was published here:

Wildeye Winery website:

If anyone knows more about this vineyard/operation, please let me know!!

The “Enz Vineyard” is gaining popular attention and, as a believer in the concept that “a rising tide lifts all boats”, I hope to see more quality producers using fruit from San Benito and Santa Clara Counties.



Having said that I would like to share some information from an email I received on 8/26 from Mr Ian Brand on his personal involvement with the farming of this hallowed vineyard:



"…For the last two years, I’ve been engaged in an arrangement wherein the Enz family (Russell especially) does the farming, and I advise, handle the fruit sales and picking. We’ve taken the vineyard to organic farming practices and really brought in a great roster of winemakers. Right now, the Mourvedre goes to us (I. Brand), Sandlands, Dirty and Rowdy, Birichino, Penville Projects (out of Santa Barbara), Nonesuch Wines (assistant winemaker of Arnot Roberts), Rajat Parr Selections, and likely Bedrock and Nelle WInery in Paso. Turley gets the old Zin, Ser Winery gets the old Pfeffer. The young zin goes to Turley, Bedrock, Benevolent Neglect, and a new project called Blue Ox for sparkling (I think). The younger Pfeffer goes to Broc Cellars, Vocal Vineyards (side project of mine), and Blue Ox. I’m trying to convince Scott Shultz at Jolie-Laide that he wants some because I think it would be magic in his hands. The Pinot is going to Birichino, Newfound Wines and Presqu’ille this year. We’ve cleared another 15-20 acres on the vineyard for planting, and will be putting in another 5 acres of Mourvedre from cuttings on the vineyard and a smattering of other interesting things over the next three years.

“…I’m really happy with how everything is going. Our 15 and 16 vintages are the best the winery has produced. There are great wines in 17, but like many people, we had to do a lot of declassifying and selecting to pull wines out of that vintage – I guess that’s what they call a ‘winemaker’s vintage’. 18 is shaping up to be fantastic. The work we’ve spent a decade on is bearing fruit – that includes the winery business and the our greater mission in the local vineyards and wine scene. I can only imagine how the next decade unfolds…”




So… whether or not there are more sites in the area destined for heightened attention, the “Enz Vineyard” seems to be a location that will be appearing on many wine labels in the coming vintage releases!