It is a rare event when I remember a restaurant for its good service. Poor service or food is usually more memorable (in the words of Dorothy Parker: “It was not just plain terrible. It was fancy terrible. It was terrible with raisins in it.”). Spectacularly poor service stamps my memory indelibly and I rarely return to those establishments.
The Farm House Café is the first restaurant that indelibly stamps my memory for its outstanding service, delivered by angelic Alexandra, who made my dining experience there unforgettable, but we shall get back to this.
The Farmhouse Café is located near the western end of Adams Avenue, across from Old Trolley Barn Park (convenient for walking after dining) in North Park, San Diego. It is on the ground floor of a very non-French looking office building next to a junky looking U-Haul storage yard. Yet the ambiance undergoes a metamorphosis upon entering the restaurant. I was transported from Southern California to Southern France. The decorative duck and pig theme, although a bit trite, teleports you out of California. The next visuals registered are the cozy warmth of this small, single room restaurant and the impression that the diners are really enjoying their food. The only false note is the folded napkin with the clothespin at the top, apparently homage to Thomas Keller, but Why? It is an unnecessary contrivance that does not relate to the otherwise French theme of this restaurant.
The restaurant was opened in February 2008 by Olivier and Rochelle Bioteau, Olivier having a long career in the food industry and having worked in many restaurants both in Europe and in the US. Most of his formal training took place in Saumur in the Languedoc, which has clearly influenced his menu and his wine list. There is an extensive wine by the glass list, mostly European, but with a smattering of Australian, Argentine, and US wines. Particularly pleasing for me was the selection of excellent South of France wines at very reasonable prices.
I started with a glass of Saumur Cabernet Franc. When Alexandra poured, I noticed that the bottle was about one-third full. Upon my inquiry, she did not know when it had been opened. I assumed it had been opened at least the day before if not longer; since, I was an early diner that evening. On my palate, it was at least a day old and lacked the complexity I would expect from a fresh bottle. Alexandra offered to open a new bottle, but I declined, telling her that I would be having a second serving of this wine from a new bottle with my entrée and that this wine was acceptable, although not fresh. Five minutes later, she opened a fresh bottle anyway and poured it for me, taking away the first glass. The fresher wine was much better with the acid and complexity that I would expect from a French Cabernet Franc. What service! I began to get the feeling that she truly cared about the customers’ experience there and took pride in her work. Soon after this she took time to talk with me about my other restaurant experiences both in San Diego and elsewhere, inquiring about the French Laundry where she hopes to eat someday.
The menu is what one would expect in Southern France, but using many local fresh ingredients. I began with a charcuterie plate with three locally made sausages, accompanied with some greens, mustard and toasts. It was excellent and not overly filling as some charcuterie plates can be. Alexandra, without my prompting, poured me, gratis, a glass of Pineau de Charentes, to go with the charcuterie. It was a beverage that I had never heard of, but matched very well with the charcuterie. Pineau de Charentes is grape must to which has been added Cognac to about 20% alcohol.
The entrée menu is replete with scallops, Moroccan spiced lamb Bolognese, flat iron steak, sea bass with leek ragu, and Berkshire pork cheeks with Beluga lentils and vegetable tapioca, which I ordered. The pork cheeks were excellent and were prepared in a demiglace/red wine reduction.
Although I do not usually eat dessert, I ordered the Butterscotch pot de crème with Scottish shortbread. Wow! It was a small serving and superbly prepared.
The Farmhouse Café is well worth the visit for those seeking the food of Southern France in a romantic setting with very attentive service. I would suggest specifically scheduling your dinner on the evenings that Alexandra is working. It is open for dinner from Tuesday through Sunday 5:00 p.m. to 10:00 p.m. (Sundays 9:00 p.m.) and for brunch on Sundays from 9:00 am. To 2:00 p.m. I would suggest reservations, for the evening I dined there, a Tuesday evening, the restaurant was full (619-269-9662).
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