This is a sample rather than a selection because I ran out of time. I would have needed another two days to taste these and all the other appellations properly and wanted to devote a day to the top Chenin producers.
Menetou Salon
Domaine Henry Pellé
I’ve always been a fan of this estate so I made a point of trying all their Menetou-Salons.
The wines were presented by Paul-Henry Pellé, who has been winemaker since 2007. He’s the 4th generation of Pellé winemakers and I was impressed by his commitment to continuing and if possible improving further the work of the previous generations.
Morogues 2012 10€
Fresh aromas of pear and grapefruit, a crisp attack of the same before a middle section that oscillates between citrus fruits and saline flavours, then a clear, precise finish. 89 pts
Vignes de Ratier 2012 14€
From a sunny parcel facing south-west, the aromas were more floral than the Morogues, with spring flowers and apple blossom dominating. The attack is as crisp, but the middle section is fleshier, more substantial, with more character. the flavours lean towards Williams pears rather than Conference pears, with a longer finish. 91 pts
Le Carroir 2012 14€
The parcel is 100% silex. Another step up in quality, the aromas and flavours are more opulent but very similar to the Ratier, with the saline touch of the Morogues, but above all with more elegance and finesse than either. I had to linger over this, it was far too good to hurry, it’s a magnificent wine. Paul-Henry confirmed that it will be at its best from 2017 or 2018, which I would be fascinated to test. 93 pts
Les Blanchais 2012 16,50€
The top parcel, with as much power but slightly less opulence than the Carroir and the elegance is drier: the saline touch is more apparent, with aromas and flavours of refined Chavignol cheese. Perhaps better minerality too? I enjoy dry elegance but preferred the Carroir. I’m sure the ageing capacity is at least as good though and Paul-Henry told me that Les Blanchais tends to become sweeter after four or five years 93 pts
Les Bornés 2013 8€
I tasted all the 2013s, but only this cuvée tasted as if it was ready. Very juicy and Tigger-like, with freshly squeezed apple and pear flavours leaping out of the glass to swamp the senses in nose and mouth. Less precise than the 2012 wines, but I expect this is just down to the age difference 87 pts
All the other 2013s were very promising, but I don’t feel it is fair to comment on them now. My impression was that the wines are more exotic in flavour than the 2012s. They were picked late and I suspect that a little noble rot has added sugar (it did elsewhere). At this stage the most impressive was Les Blanchais, which was tighter and more defined than the others, but judgement should be deferred for another six months.
http://www.henry-pelle.com/presenta…_9_lang_uk.html
Jean-Max Roger - Morogues Menetou Salon - Le Petit Clos 2012 10€
I did taste quickly a line-up of 20-odd M-S whites, of which the Pellé Morogues and Ratier. The only wine seriously comparable to the Pellés was this one. Crisp aromas of Granny Smith apples, leading into a mouthful of ripe apples and pears, with quite a fleshy middle section and a long, satisfying finish. 89 pts
http://www.jean-max-roger.fr/accuei...e=vin.php&id=22
POUILLY FUME
Domaine Serge Dagueneau et filles
Not to be confused with Domaine Didier Dagueneau (I don’t know if there is any family connection at all).
Les Pentes 2013 12€
Fruity and juicy, without the green, acidic flavours found in so many wines from Pouilly that were picked too early. This tasted fully ripe, with the orchard fruits off set by an interesting peppery touch, a tightness and definition that made it stand out compared to most other 2013s. 89 pts
Clos des Chaudoux 2012 17€
Impressive aromas of white flowers, white peach and pepper, very refined. The first sip is opulent, with loads of almost jammy pear flavours, before a peppery second wave, then a more mineral, elegant sensation before a long, intense finish. Really good, this should be cellared for several years. 93 pts
La Leontine 2011 25€
Bottled after 12 months in barrels, but I would never have guessed - there’s no trace of the wood. Similar to the Chaudoux, but with greater complexity in the middle section, with notes of honey beginning to emerge, which I imagine will be more prominent in a few more years from now. Highly recommended, one of my wines of the fair. 94 pts.
It was an impressive range from a domaine I had never tried before.
http://www.s-dagueneau-filles.fr/en/domaine
Jonathan Didier Pabiot - Predilection 2011 14€
Slightly smoky start, then floral, fruity aromas dominated by pear blossom, followed by a mouthful of orchard fruits, a middle section full of zest, when you can really sense the wine moving up through the gears, then a long, intense slightly peppery finale. Great stuff. 91 pts
Domaine Tinel-Blondelet L’Arrêt Buffatte 2012 11€
More lemon aromas than the other wines tasted, the taste starts off with citrus fruits, before a second wave of light peach flavours, then a saline, mineral sensation, before a good finish that evokes the orchard fruits found elsewhere. Interestingly different. 90 pts
http://www.tinel-blondelet.com/accu...page=historique