Today, the world mourns the loss of one of Italy’s greatest winemakers, Teobaldo Cappallano, producer of Barolo, co-founder of the Vini Veri (Real Wine) movement, steadfast defender of traditional winemaking practices, and an untiring activist devoted to the cause of vino secondo natura, “wine by means of nature.”
This is a sad loss. There is certainly a good contingent of traditional Barolo stalwarts who are aging, hopefully their art and style do not pass with them.
Another place where things appear to be in good hands. Bartolo’s daughter, Maria-Teresa has been running things for a few years now. Everything still very traditional, but a bit cleaner.
Losing Teobaldo is sad news for the wine world. Carolyn and I visited with him and his son Augusto in 2006, and although we were just crazy Americans, he spent hours with us at the winery and then treated us to dinner later that night at his favorite restaurant. Not only was he fun, intelligent, opinionated and larger than life, but he could make some damn fine wine, too. You’ll be missed, Baldo!
And for those who think that the Giacomo Conterno wines are similar to the older wines, I’d suggest trying the 2004 Barolo or 2006 Barbera first. These wines are nothing like the wines were 3-4 years ago, and have moved to a far more modern style of ripeness. We tasted the 2004 Barolo with a lot of old Conterno fans, and everyone was disappointed in the wine.
I, too, was sad to read about Baldo. I hope to be around to participate in one of the tribute wine tastings that are being tentatively planned.
As for the '06 Conterno Barbera, I have absolutely no problem with that wine. See my tasting note posted elsewhere. None of the traditionalists I drank it with had anything but positives to say about it. I’ll have to try the '04 Barolo CF (but damn, is it getting pricey!).