Roy Piper: After The Heatwave

I saw my first optical sorter about 7 vintages ago. Frankly, they broke down a lot and I was not a fan. Then, about 4 years ago the new generation came out and I started to take a very close look. Three years ago the winery I crush at bought one and I watch it in awe. Now, I will not go to a winery without one. I will go even one further. To not own one (if you are a winery crushing at least 200 tons where sorting is used) is irresponsible, both for quality and financially.

Optical sorters take photos of everything that is on the sorting table. You can program it to remove anything you want. I watch over the process and each winemaker and lot can be specifically programed for. It blows out the material you want sorted berry by berry as they cascade into the bin. Since I make sure all fruit is already near perfect when it is picked, I only set the sorter to remove any stems, leaves or pips. Basically, green material. I doubt I have lost even 0.2% of my fruit the last two years. But in a year with shrivel, it would be a godsend.

The fact is, the new high minimum wages in CA (plus competition for labor from Mendocino pot farms making it hard to find labor at all), not even counting paperwork and FICA taxes and Obamacare mandates plus everything else our state puts in the way of hiring people has made technology move faster than it ever would have before.

Economically, when you have a 16 foot table with 8-10 people sorting on it, it can process maybe 1.5-2 tons per hour. Now, you can process 3-4 tons. And not only does this mean less overtime for the weary winery staff, but less money spent on labor and less paperwork. With staff being less tired, it leads to less mistakes and higher quality. Also, I have found that all these sorters tend to “look for something to do” and wind up sorting out fruit that should not be sorted out.

Instead of keeping a crew for 12-13 hours of monotonous sorting, they are home after 8. Less overtime. less labor. Better quality. It takes less time to clean, as the optical sorters are actually not large and your sorting tables are much shorter.

Optical sorters are here to stay. They are better, faster, more economical. It improves any wine it touches. Like I said, I will not crush in any facility without one at this point. It can cost $70,000 for those machines. But a busy winery can pay that off in a year in saved labor.

What’s next? Well, more and more wineries are moving to automatic pumpovers. Soon you will not need interns to labor over all that work either. You just program it on your iPhone to pumpover when you want. Since the worst mistakes of harvest are that tired staff pumping a Cabernet tank into a Pinot tank by mistake in hour number 14 of their tenth straight day of work, or pulling off a valve by mistake and sending $70,000 down the drain in 30 seconds (that happened to me once), you now have each tank with its own self-contained pump, with no chance of disaster. And you can hone in your pumpovers to exact specifications.

Here is a video of my fruit being sorted using one two years ago. See the final result in the last few seconds of this video and decide for yourself. Oh, and optical sorters have gotten better since this video was made.

You can program the newest optical sorters to leave things in, not just remove things. Literally, you can program it to remove shot berries, leave in stems and remove snakes. Whatever you want. So you are able to decide for oneself what is and is not desirable to leave in or remove. Anything that a person could do.

For myself, I make Cab and I want EVERYTHING that is not fruit, removed. I am fanatical about nothing but 100% fruit. But if I made Pinot or Syrah, I could program it to leave brown stems and remove green stems. Or leave in both. Whatever.

I honestly cannot think of ONE downside of the best optical sorters. Except the big up front cost. Which is why I don’t think it makes as much sense until you hit maybe 200 tons. I make 6 tons, LOL. But I crush at someone else’s winery and luckily, they have the $$$ for it.

The best sorting really does happen in the vineyard. Which is why I just remove green stuff the destemmer can’t. But look at the speed it goes now! It’s a huge benefit for the facility and for the people (those still employed, that is.)

This is a very legitimate question and philosophical topic. I think about this a lot.

I still remember my 2010 and 2011 which I made in 1-ton plastic bins. I hand punched them down and even foot stomped. Those days are done for me. I still miss that experience. Kinda. I miss it in retrospect but in reality, I was so tired after those two harvests that in one case I went to the hospital with sciatic nerve issues.

Believe it or not, there is still romance at the wineries. Less? Perhaps. There are less people, for sure. But the quality is higher. If it was not higher, I would not use an optical sorter no matter what the savings and most I know would not, either.

There is one gal last year who did my pumpovers at the custom crush. She is back this year and I am very happy to see her because I feel safer with her doing them. She knows what I want and has experience now. If she had a series of 12-13 hour days sorting like a drone, I suspect she would never come back and that would be LESS romantic.

I feel the romance is a bit HIGHER in my case because I am getting a chance to work with the same people every year and in the end, this is a people business. So the technology is a mixed bag but perhaps a net positive.

But having been a worker drone for years during harvest, the technology is actually creating time to talk to your co-workers a bit more. And you are less exhausted. It’s hard to connect with other people when you are dead tired. So from one angle, technology might be increasing the romance.

But what happens when no one is needed to make wine and it is like that movie “Silent Running” where its just one person and robots? There is a point where technology makes human connection less and less. I don’t know where, but there will be a crossover point. I think that will be a much bigger issue for the generation after me.

Impressive

In some ways, I think that threshold has already been crossed.

Automation, assembly lines, machines replacing people … this has been going on for centuries. Yes it seems to be accelerating now, but the world of work is getting automated. This is an unstoppable mega-trend. So it is our burden as a global society to figure out how to educate and organize people - of all ability levels - to lead productive fulfilling and enjoyable lives. This is what I think about when I worry about automation.

Don’t blame industrialists, workers, capitalists, farmers, or business people for trying to make their businesses more efficient and products better. That’s part of the inevitable.

By the way, I love both Roy and Merrill’s wine.