Yeah, I have to agree that Chang came across as childish and with all the benefits of the food press/media for him to complain about “critics” is silly. Gold, as Robert said, probably held Chang to a high standard. He didn’t totally dis the place. He liked some of it and not other dishes. Gold doesn’t dwell on wine and actually not service as much as other critics either. So it’s not impossible t understand that Gold was lukewarm on it and Michael here likes the “sexy” package.
What’s ironic is that the review probably didn’t affect the business’ draw, one bit. In this town simply getting a Times review draws customers.
No offense, but this statement sums up why JG was so revolutionary. Its not that service was unimportant to him, but he valued food and authenticity far more. He recognized that “hospitality” can vary by culture and one person’s idea of good service can be vastly different than another person, especially when you are dealing with food cultures beyond France and Italy. If you don’t like the hustle and bustle of a small SGV restaurant, I get it. But for those who love food over service, JG provided a valuable resource and changed the way many view a restaurant experience.
I will be the first to admit that there is a time and place for an authentic experience in a hole in the wall in SGV. My wife offered to organize a dinner for me at any restaurant any were in the world for a big birthday last year and I chose Di Faras pizza. I did bring my own wine and Zaltos…
It’s a good reminder most writers are criminally underpaid. I happily donated given I would have happily paid for his articles. The friendships his writing brought me are some of my closest.
The restaurants that have shitty service aren’t the ones in the SGV; they’re the moderate priced small plate restaurants we were complaining about in the la thread. That’s because LA doesn’t have good professional waitstaff except in a few cases, they’re often aspiring actors.
Actually, we might know why he “ranked” it as he did, or at least get a fuller explanation, here:
excerpts:
Why is Vespertine No. 1 on the 101 list this year?
Because Jordan Kahn is playing with modes of dining that have never before been articulated. Because months after your meal, images and juxtapositions will flash through your thoughts, as vivid as they were the evening of your dinner. Because Verspertine is in its way perfect.
But isn’t the experience alienating? You tend to spend half of everything you write about a Kahn project explaining why most people are unlikely to enjoy it.
This is true — I do spend a lot of time thinking about how a young couple from Tarzana might save up for a nice night out and end up not just confused but angry about the fruit leather, dried kelp and clouds of smoldering frankincense. If you’re going to Vespertine — and of course, I encourage everybody to visit Vespertine — you should know what you are getting into, just as you would before seeing “Lulu” at the L.A. Opera.
Do you like Vespertine?
I do. But I’m not sure that it’s a relevant question. I have no doubt that Kahn and his team have their customers’ pleasure somewhere in their list of aesthetic priorities, but I’m guessing it’s pretty far behind other considerations. I am occasionally reminded by the essay “Who Cares If You Listen” by the fabulously dissonant composer Milton Babbitt. I also think about the scene in Albert Brooks’ “Defending Your Life” where Brooks insists on trying some of the food his defense attorney Rip Torn is eating — not meant for little brains, Torn explains — and even the space-station food sequence in “2001.’’ The point of Kahn’s food is to keep you off-balance, to resemble nothing you’ve ever intentionally put in your mouth. At this he succeeds.
thanks for posting this, G.
Josef Centeno – the chef behind Baco Mercat, Bar Ama, Orsa and Winston – also had tribute t-shirts for sale with all proceeds going to the family; currently sold out, but he might have more available in the future…
Im so saddened by the passing of one of the cities best. Food is probably my favorite thing about Los Angeles, and Jonathan Gold was a huge part me searching for food to eat at all times of the day. I absolutely love the culture in Los Angeles, and Mr. Gold helped shed light on this amazing city with his words.
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agree to disagree…