I took this as doing a comparative analysis of the three wines across two vintages to see styles and aging.
I would strongly suggest 1996 and 2007. One young, one mature, and both excellent vintages for those producers. Also relatively easy to obtain. Those vintages also miss out on vintage and other-condition issues for each respective winery. 97 is a better vintage for Montelena than Montebello, but 96 is good for all 3. 2001 or 2002 brings into question cork taint issues for Montelena that have long since been addressed. 2007 is a level, high quality vintage and each performed well.
So 1996 and 2007. For all three. Drink them and get a feel.
1996 is considered a top notch vintage for Ridge Monte Bello, but not across the board. It’s typically discounted against 94, 97, 01, 02. It’s a tier two vintage from a collector’s standpoint (which I think is erroneous). 97 Montelena will likely cost you a heavy premium over 96, and I’d expect a softer premium for Togni. The inverse is true for Ridge, where 96 is an huge performer and 97 is a let down.
I have had 2001 Togni Cab twice in the past year and both times I found it perfectly in the drinking window. In fact, I wouldn’t plan on holding it for many more years. It is ready to go.
My understanding is that Togni racks about 10 times from the end of fermentation to bottling. That is comparatively a high number of times. Each time you rack you expose the maturing wine to oxygen.
I’ve never had a Togni. I haven’t had enough Montelena to reply on this.
However I am willing to speak to Monte Bello. As this is one of the longest-lived wines made in California, if not the world, improving for decades, it is hard to recommend something to drink now that is under $200. I will vouch for the 2007, an unusually plush example of the wine, should be available in your price range. I will also vouch for the 1997, IMO an even better vintage that was superb a year or two ago. I don’t know if you can find it for under $200.
Good luck. IMO you’ve certainly picked some great classics to work with.
I’m curious as to what you’re saying about exposure to oxygen due to racking. Are you saying that this process causes the wines to be more open earlier, or that they don’t age as long, or both?
If I think of a wine like a Lopez de Heredia Gran Riserva, they’re racked 10+ times before bottling. I find them enjoyable on release but far better after long bottle aging. Wines like that lead me to believe that lots of racking might make the wines enjoyable early on, but they don’t give me the impression that they wont age a long time either.
Erik,
Where are you located? The easiest way to get started may be to find wine friends from this board. For example, if you’re in the Bay Area, I certainly have some of these that I can share with you. I’m positive others would do the same in other areas.
Howard Cooper wrote:
Togni - 1991 and 1994
Ridge - 1984, 1991, 1996, 1999
Montelena - 1978, 1985, 1991, 1994, 1996
I agree that these are great choices. I would also say the majority of these are going to be north of your $200 price maximum. If you can find them for under $200, assuming good storage, then I would purchase. Others that you may find under $200 that are good choices are 1992, 1995, and 1996 for Montelena, and 2002, 2003, and 2004 for Monte Bello. I have not tried as much Togni as I have Montelena and Monte Bello. Good luck with the hunt!
I think it affects how the tannins read on the palate, which is a key for Cabernet Sauvignon (IMHO). I think Tempranillo is a different ball game, really. Tempranillo can go into this long, long ageing plateau (Matt Kramer described this well in one of his early books).
I apologize for responding late, I just saw your question.
Can’t speak to any of these vintages but… I do know that IF you can get in touch with either Philip or Elizabeth Togni they have or had when I visited them cases of vintages going back to the eighties in storage. Don’t know what they would ask for a bottle but the provenance would be perfect. Had his '97 when I was there a few years ago and it was drinking beautifully.
In a tasting among the best 1978 California Cabernets Montelena Napa was a rock star. Serious competition from Heitz MV, Phelps Eisele, Ridge Monte Bello, Beringer PR, and Shafer. Great vintage!
Given the $200/bottle max I’d actually get the 1998 Montelena estate which is actually going to be a better wine (and is drinking as well as) the 1997. Several of the wines mentioned above wouldn’t be available for less than $200, though several years of the Togni, Montelena, and Montebello would be. I would recommend the 2005 Togni which has been quite tasty. The 1992 Montelena can also be quite tasty but there is some bottle variation.
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