Recent wines: '09 BDX, Rivers-Marie, Gramercy, Copain

Catching up on some notes from wines from the past week or so. I just got my first shipment of '09 Bordeaux in from Millesima (well, not truly the first since Fleur Morange Mathilde came in late in 2010), so I checked in on a few of these

I’ll come clean. I bought into 2009 more heavily than any other year, and this was the first year I bit on futures since 1995. I have quite a few 2005s as well (most bought at release) and a smattering of 2000s and 2001s, but in '09 I went long. Not sure why, except perhaps that despite the overall high prices of the classified growths, there seemed to be a lot of quality at the “low end,” and most of my purchases were in the $20-30/bottle range. Why buy futures for these? Well, clearly the savings are not big, so my major incentive is to secure wines that I thought might not otherwise be available, and in truth, many of these seem to be much harder to find on the market now. To give you some idea, these are wines like Rol Valentin, Barde-Haut, Godeau, Le Crock, Lillian-Ladouys, Poujeaux, Croix de Gay Belle-Vue. I went for a few classified growths as well, such as Calon-Segur (a perennial favorite), Marquis de Terme, d’Armailhac, Batailley. Anyway, I generally align well with James Molesworth’s palate and fortunately he was keen on most of these wines, so I’m pretty happy overall. My first two cheapies (Capbern-Gasqueton and Tour de Mons) also showed well, and are reaffirming my faith in the vintage. So far, so good.

2009 Château Capbern-Gasqueton - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe (3/1/2012)
Drank over three days, most of which I was affected by a mild cold, so although I had a chance to taste this on several occasions and track its evolution, my sensory capacities are probably not at their best. Nonetheless, this is a pleasing young Bordeaux (my second taste of the vintage, along with Fleur-Morange Mathilde). A dark saturated ruby with a nose of cassis, underbrush, and black cherry. Rich plum and currant flavors with hints of olive and black pepper. Smooth but firm tannins on the back end with a finish of decent length. On the softer side for a St-Estephe, but possessing good body and potential for mid-term aging. (90 pts.)

2009 Château La Tour de Mons - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (3/6/2012)
Consumed over three days, and showing its best on day 3. Initially a bit chunky and disjointed, this came into better harmony by day 2. Red currant, herbs, gaeta olive, and red plum on the nose. Medium- to full-bodied with black raspberry, cranberry, and bing cherry flavors, moderate acidity and excellent length. If I were a betting man, I should think this has the potential to develop into something quite special. Though my sample size of the vintage is still rather small, and mostly at the low end of the spectrum, I have found these wines to be extremely well balanced and though rich, not at all over the top. By contrast, the 2008s I sampled at this time were oaky, hollow and disjointed. Call me a believer so far, and I am happy that I went fairly long on futures. (90 pts.)

2009 Gramercy Cellars Syrah - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley (3/5/2012)
This shows off the smokier, meatier side of syrah. Powerful, heady and savory nose of black raspberries and herbs de provence. Flavors mirror the nose, with black plum, smoked meat, and bay leaf. Structured, but with moderate acids and relatively mild tannins. Extremely long finish with lingering flavors of dark berries and olive brine. My first experience with Gramercy, and this made quite an impression. Keeps improving with air, suggesting this will be even better in a few years. Really nice juice, and one of the better syrahs I’ve had in recent memory, coming from a guy who drinks a lot of them. (93 pts.)

2006 Copain Syrah Hawks Butte Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands (3/4/2012)
Drank over 3 days. Initially quite primal, with a heady grapey nose accented by crushed stones and mint. With air, the mineral aspects became more pronounced, though also revealing tar and herbs de provence notes to go with the blackberry fruit. Pretty big on the entry, but with a freshness from the firm acid structure on the midpalate that gives this a deceptive lightness. Tight on the back end with noticeable though well-integrated tannins, and a long finish of creme de cassis and black cherries. This wine seems to epitomize the transition between their bigger/more traditionally Californian style and the lighter/brighter style that began in 2006, as this sits somewhere in between the two. More complex and nuanced than a 2002 I tried recently, but showing a similar bigger frame and higher alcohol. However, this has more freshness, which could be a factor of its youth, though I find this to be a lot more open-knit than the 2007. My only concern about this wine is it seems a bit awkward in the middle, as if it is still unsure of its personality. The nose and entry suggest a forward wine, but there is a great deal of restraint and leanness on the back end. An interesting wine for sure, and I am curious how this will develop in a few years. (92 pts.)

1998 Dr. Loosen Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (3/3/2012)
Surprisingly dark color, though a lovely gold, and clearly not cooked or oxidized. Sweet and more of a dessert style, and lacking some acidity that would be present in better years, but overall a very pleasing and versatile wine. Accompanied Indian curry, Sushi, and choucroute quite well on separate evenings. Showing flavors of ripe peach, honey, pineapple upside-down cake, and lemon custard, and though reaching maturity, manages to avoid petrol flavors/aromas (not that there’s anything wrong with that). A fair value at PC’s $30 weekend special pricing, but I wouldn’t pay much more than that. (91 pts.)

2010 Dr. Konstantin Frank Riesling Dry - USA, New York, Finger Lakes (3/3/2012)
Opened when I ran out of the '98 Erdener Pralat and needed something to go with sushi. Initially this was pretty reserved, and not showing much riesling character. It was, admittedly, a terrible match for the sushi, especially following a rather sweet Goldkapsel. The dryness and slightly more austere nature of this wine would make it a better match for seafood, and this came across as more pinot gris-like on day one, with some melon, citrus, and a hint of gewurtz-like lychee. Quite complex aromatically, especially after aeration, though a bit out of character for riesling. On the palate, dry with granny smith apple, lemon, honeydew and a not quite mineral/slightly saline quality on the firm acid-laced finish. Nicely balanced, if a bit lean. Still, a heck of a lot better than many German halbtrockens at a much better price. Drink local my friend. (89 pts.)

2006 Rivers-Marie Pinot Noir Occidental Ridge Vineyard - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast (3/8/2012)
Pop and pour. Nose of bright cherry fruit, baking spice, and orange peel. Took a few hours to open up aromatically and on the palate, but showing nice acids to go with the tart cherry, clove, grapefruit and bergamot flavors. Some drying tannins on the back end, but the finish is long. Overall this is a bit lean in the midpalate right now, and my best guess would be that this would be showing better in a few years, though it is also possible that the fruit is drying up. This being my first bottle, I have no comparison to what it was like in its youth. I dig the acid structure and nose, and am hopeful the rest will come together with time. Will save the rest for tomorrow, as I am curious how this will evolve. (90+? pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

Great notes; I especially thought you nailed your note on the Gramercy Syrah.

Scott, Nice note on the pretty, but schizophrenic 06 Copain Hawks. It’s almost like you can “taste” Wells’ stylistic conflicts in the transitional year of 2006.

Thanks for reading guys. As mentioned, this was my first bottle of Gramercy, a producer I’d been meaning to try for many years and finally got around to buying. I’ll likely post on the Lagniappe soon, as I picked up a few of these as well. I’m curious, D, what your thoughts are as to how this compares to the basic Walla Walla. I also bought my first Reynvaans, another producer I’m excited to try soon.

The Copain was certainly an idiosyncratic wine, “schizophrenic” is a great descriptor. I haven’t tasted many post-2006 vintages yet, but I recall the 2007 being very angular and tight when I tried it about a year and a half ago. I know this is one of FMIII all-time favorite Copains, but I thought it needed a lot of time (admittedly, I had this at a Copain event, so I couldn’t track its evolution over a few days), and felt it was not showing particularly well in this setting. OTOH, I’ve recently tried a lot of pre-2006 HBs as well, and while they are all enjoyable (save the '05 which I didn’t particularly care for), they are not as fresh as the '06. Who knows, the '06 might actually turn out to be the perfect balance of both worlds. Someday I’ve got to organize a vertical.

cheers,
scott

I also have only tried the Walla Walla other than at the tasting room, but have the 2009 John Lewis and others including the Lagniappe coming later this month.

I love the restrained fruit, acid and stemmy notes on what is still such a young Syrah and will be going long on this producer.

Cheers

Dan

Just wrapping up a evening with this wine. Definitely agree with the meatier side comments. Lots of game in the nose and the palate, fruit takes the background. However, I found myself a bit disappointed by the levels of acid. Gramercy has a reputation for being a high-acid producer. Maybe it’s because I just finished the Copain Baker’s Ranch (which is very acidic by comparison), but this seemed to be much more in line with the low-acid Reynvaan/Cayuse school of WW syrah than I was expecting. I might pull an In the Rocks tomorrow to see how it compares, but I suspect it’d be difficult to name the producer if this were blind against a recent Reynvaan.

I think your notes are spot-on, but I’m surprised you loved this and not the Reynvaan.

Michael

Michael, to clarify, I did not particularly like the Unnamed, but I did enjoy the ITR. I’m not a total acid freak, and do enjoy the “bigger” styled syrahs from time to time, but found that the Unnamed was pretty flabby, while the ITR was much more harmonious. I guess what appealed to me about the Gramercy that was lacking in both the Reynvaans was the gamey/meaty edge, which is something I enjoy in syrahs. Nonetheless, there is a lot to be said about context, and if I’d tried the Gramercy after the Anthill or Copain Baker, i probably would have found it a bit flat in comparison, as it definitely does not have the acidity of either of these wines. I agree, if the Gramercy were tasted blind against the Reynvaan ITR, it would be hard tell them apart, but on this night, I found the Gramercy very appealing. I have a lot more hope for the ITR vs the Unnamed in terms of aging potential, though.

Fair enough, Scott!I’m just a bit disappointed in the Gramercy because of their low-alc high-acid reputation. I find myself gravitating to CA syrah, which is a shame since I live in WA. I wish we had something to stand up to Copain, but as my tastes evolve I’m starting to wonder.

I should drink a Napa can before my next Gramercy; I’m sure it’ll show much better!

Michael

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

Scott, thanks for the notes. I recall my last time drinking the 06, as it was with Sean Kennedy during some poker in October–my note is below. After I drank it, I sourced another off Wine Bid and have 2 left but I will work through them both probably this year and no later than next. I really found the wine quite accesible,more forward and really not wired like the 2007. You’re right about the wine being transitional for the winery’s sytle, too. I have to correct you though, as the 06 is not one of my all timers. The 2007, for sure!

  • 2006 Copain Syrah Hawks Butte Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands (10/1/2011)
    Drank with quesadillas and a 2 handed poker game. We finished this over the course of about 3 hours and I really enjoyed the place this wine is in. Tangy, soft tannin, dark fruit and an aromatic smoky note. Despite the higher ABV of 14.7%, there isn’t a trace of heat anywhere in this wine. All taken together, this wine has rounded out quite early and is pretty softened for what is typically a more leaner, cooler climate bottling that has a longer aging curve. If someones was to put this 06 next to the 07, which is a stunning vintage for Copain Hawks, I would never really be able to say this 06 was from the same plot. In sum, this is in a drink now stage, just balanced beautifully and marrying together a more riper styled Hawks profile with just enough nuance to create a great drink.

Posted from CellarTracker

I’ll add this note from Sept. '11

2006 Copain Syrah Hawks Butte Vineyard - USA, California, North Coast, Yorkville Highlands (9/24/2011)
Decanted for 1.5 hours and consumed over 3. Don’t let the ripeness of the nose or the listed Abv of 14.6 fool you, this is still a restrained effort albeit quite larger than most of the '06 and beyond Copain. There is a great energetic juicy tartness to the fruit here with fully resolved tannins and perfect balance for my palate. Not a trace of heat to the mostly blue fruit and slight touch of wood smoke. Very enjoyable now and probably at its peak for young drinking pleasure. I’m not sure where this will go in the future, but is pretty darn good now.

Posted from CellarTracker



FMIII, my fault for the unclear wording in my post above. I was actually referring to the 2007 when speaking about your all-time favorite, but see how this could be confusing. I did think the 2007 HB needed a lot of time when I tried it a few years ago, while the '06 was much more accessible. I should try an '07 again soon, so that I can track its evolution over a few days, which I wasn’t able to do at the Copain dinner.

cheers,
scott