I definitely agree with you, but that’s coming from someone whose cellar is ~ 70% White Burgundy. For my palate, I find higher and more frequent highs with White Burgundy in general.
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2018 is a bit riper with lower acidity, but still quite linear. Definitely the more enjoyable wine today.
The 2020 is tight, incisive, compact and chalky. Very oyster inflected nose. Hard not to call this Chablis.
These each need 5+ years at a minimum. I think PYCM does a better en Remilly for my palate. Hubert Lamy really shines with Clos de la Chentniere.
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Wow this is in the zone. On that knife’s edge of reduction. Nutty with toasted brioche and petrichor just billowing from the glass. Spicy ginger, limestone, and glycerin with a finish that drives on. Reminiscent of Coche. Stunning juice.
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I would argue that it’s worse with White Burg. You need to be prepared to abandon your favorites at moment’s notice. A producer gets trendy and then within 12 months is in the stratosphere. Bonin, Dancer, Ente, Lamy Caillat, etc etc etc. I feel like there are more tip-top red producers who are not culty and who plateau at levels that are not insane (eg Lafarge, Fourrier, even Dujac).
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I hear what you’re saying. I agree, there have been seemingly more instances of explosive growth for one off white Burg producers in the last 5 years. I still buy some of those wines because I can’t help myself (looking at you Lamy-Caillat), but there is so much quality sub $200 — especially at the village level. It’s hard to keep up with.
- Dureuil Janthial
- Hubert Lamy
- Dauvissat
- Laurent Tribut
- PYCM (en Remilly)
- Jean-Claude Bachelet
- Paul Pillot (Les Mazures)
- Latour-Giraud
- Pierre-Morey
- Jules Desjourneys
- Samuel Billaud
- Guffens-Heynen
- Jobard-Morey (Les Narvaux)
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“I remember hearing of one: Exceptionnelle Vendanges des Sept Domaines, Montrachet Grand Cru
One-off bottling from 2016”
Released at £6000 in the UK
The 2020 is still a baby and while it has lost some of its baby fat, and pushed some more minerality to the forefront, I would hold for another 3-5 more years before opening as it will greatly improve its overall delivery. A special wine but not yet at its next peak so to speak. Beauty.
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Are people finding premox in Boillot whites for recent vintages?
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Love the 20 Boillot Richemont, but I am reluctant to hold much longer. My target with Boillot is to drink them within 8 years from vintage.
Yes. Unfortunately they are still prone to premox in my experience. I’ve recently had advanced or premoxed wines from the 16 (2X), 17 (2X) and 18 vintages.
I am a little sick in how I look at it… if HB didn’t have the Premox baggage his wines would be worth 2-3x. So I apply this logic (which I agree is a stretch) with 2020+ and open 50-75% within 5-7 years of vintage date and then if all show zero signs of Premox I will roll the dice. Since this is with 2020+ I can’t tell you anything other than the 100+ I have opened, including this one last night, all showed zero signs. Did I just jinx myself- I am sure I did.
I get that calculation. My experience goes back to the 2010 vintage, and premox has been a consistent problem. On the other hand we had a magnificent 2002 PM Moucheres last month that was fabulous, perfectly aged and lively. The variability is what drives me nuts.
Switching topics, what vintage of Tusk did you drink and how was it?
I believe he switched to wax capsules in 2020, which may partially explain how it’s been.
I spent a hot Georgia summer rolling the premox dice and got skunked three times out of five Boillots tapped, all 2015-2018. Here are the culprits:
July. 8, 26’- “Two bottles, both alike in dignity…”
2017 Moucheres vs. Moucheres. Bottle on left is poxxed, note the copper penny color. You can smell the nail polish from here…
Aug. 8, 26’ - 2017 Boillott Moucheres next to a glass of correct 20 Dauvissat La Forest (bottle not shown, note the heavy Chablis pour to console me in this difficult time)
Aug. 26’ - 2017 Morey Chassange 1er Virondots vs. a premoxed 15’ Mouchere on right.
The 17’ Morey was looking dicey with a crusty cork under the foil, but it was clean and proper.
Like Boillot, Dauvissat and Niellon, Marc Morey makes delicious whites at ok prices, but is also prone to premature oxidation. I’ll tap the ones I have on the younger side and live with the duds, but I don’t intend to buy more until they switch ti Diam (as Niellon did in some bottles starting 2022).
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All of my Virondots 2017 are perfect. Stopped buying Moucheres to age. Just too risky.
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I thought you were supposed to hold 1 cru Chablis at least 10 years. A friend opened up a Droin 23 Vallons. Thought we was crazy but was wonderfully accessible . Not a classic Chablis- more lush fruit, less chalk , unless it was overcome by the fruit. But a very enjoyable bottle.
Is the Chablis style changing? Global warming?
Where will it be in 10 years?
It was 2015 vintage. It was very good but not at the same level as others I prefer, Abreu is an example of one or Tynan MG.
The boillot changes occurred 2020 so the 15-18 still would be at that danger zone (not that we are all clear yet either).
I feel your pain :(. That’s a bad miss rate.
Bad experience with their 2019s, I stopped buying. An easy call given the price creep.
Hi - prefacing by saying this is a wild question (and probably makes no sense) but if you were to buy either the (1) coche dury burg blanc 22 or (2) raveneau butteaux 23 assuming similar price range (maybe +/- $40), what would you think is money better spent? One additional thing is that I would look to pop the damn thing in like 1 month.
context is i’ve never bought either the cc or the raveneau (though I’ve tried minuscule sips here and there over the years) so want to man up and buy and entry level and dip my toes on the elixir everybody is raving about