Thank you for this lovely and moving write-up. We all felt Greg’s spirit in the room, and I know he would have loved every bite, every sip, every joke, every teasing barb
Speaking of teasing, I love it that your pairing of the year is one that didn’t happen. (We had the two Comtes de Champagne with the torchon.)
Great picture, and agreed about corn and Leflaive.
I was very curious to see whether an old burg or a young would work better. I think they both worked really well in different ways and both were beauties.
The sandwich is duck liver mousse and Candy Cap mushroom jam. Candy Caps are a bizarre and wonderful little fungus that smells exactly like maple syrup.
Many 22 Village wines are starting to drink well, so I’d be curious to hear what specific wines @Andrew_K drank but generally I agree with his sentiment. My experience with 22 Chablis is they have A LOT of dry extract and are quite structured and phenolic at the moment. Need time to settle down. I like the vintage a lot and hopeful it could turn out like 19 with slightly better acidity.
Never thought that. Have to try it. Guess that means I’ve got to transport a bottle of Leflaive to Cleveland to have with Szalay’s summer corn on the cob!
2019 Coche Rougeots at Le Louis XV in Monaco last week was next-level great. My wife, who has had tons of great wine, proclaimed it one of the best wines she’s ever had. And she was right.
19s are drinking great and this, while young, is insanely impressive. Dense and ripe but very fresh. Long and grand. Impeccably balanced. And it has that extra gear that is unique to Coche and only a tiny handful of other producers.
One of life’s great joys is drinking Coche off of Euro wine lists for what is almost invariably less $$ than US retail.
Epic. 19s are glorious, so I can only imagine how well this showed. I managed to score 1 bottle of 19 village Coche at wholesale cost stateside. Hopeful for a similar experience. Coche Rougeots is special though — better than most Montrachet.
2014 B Moreau Chenevottes at La Chèvre d’Or restaurant (which was really excellent) in Eze. This had an A++ nose of gentle yellow fruits, florals, and touches of spice and orchard fruits. But the palate, while nice, did not deliver quite the same fireworks. Balanced and proper but a bit subdued.
2014 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (16/07/2026)
1st from my 6 pack. Sadly, the first 2014 I can recall that was affected by POX. Poured out with a gold colour which made me a little nervous. Sure enough, some POX on the nose and palate. Huge dry extract and sweet citrus fruit underneath which made it all the more frustrating. Will open the rest of the case this week and keep my fingers crossed.
Amazingly, remaining 2 glasses the following evening were a revelation. Still some pox holding things back but the underlying material was able to shine through with an extra 24 hours. Masses of sweet, tangy/candied oranges, limes and apples. (NR/flawed)
2014 Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (20/07/2026)
2nd bottle from my case after the somewhat pox affected first bottle. Much paler colour on pouring and zero signs of pox this time on the nose and palate. Painfully young, as the caroline morey version is too. Decided to recork it and drink it over the following 2-3 evenings. Night 2: Incredibly dense, chewy, tangy citrus fruits with plenty of acidity and buffering extract. This bottle needs another decade. Night 3: hasn’t moved much! Night 4: door is just very slightly ajar…! Hints of a supple butteriness coming now but still a bruiser.
Another premoxed Jean Javillier. I hold William Kelley in very high regard but this producer has been a real disappointment. Fortunately Dureuil-Janthial was fire.
2020 Dureuil-Janthial Rully Maizières Blanc - France, Burgundy, Côte Chalonnaise, Rully (28.7.2026)
A really intense and crisp nose of lemon, iodine, roasted hazelnut, smoky reduction and sesame. Remarkably vivid and nuanced. On the palate the same level of intensity continues, both on flavor and acidity. Tangy and mouth-watering with huge length, it has a real presence. The oak has integrated beautifully and texturally this is wonderfully chiselled and layered. A very savory expression with power but no heat, a superb expression of the vintage. Punches way, way above its level.
Been on a Dauvissat tear lately. I just love Sechet and Dauvissat’s is possibly the driest most mineral driven Chardonnay in Burgundy; in my personal opinion, it’s the greatest Oyster wine on the planet. This is so rocky saline and precise - almost simple in how soil driven this wine presents. The salinity is painfully intense, the finish leaves you thirsty. 2014 is such a special Chablis vintage - this wine is just a baby.
Had Dauvissat for the first time back in June and was really impressed by the wines and the saline quality. Just low-key terrified about the premox risk as they aren’t inexpensive.
There are Muscadets which do well with oysters, too - offhand 2007 and 2014 Pepiere Briords (and possibly several other vintages of that cuvée I have tried but a few).