About 20 years ago I ran across a Thanksgiving recipe for Andouille Cornbread Stuffing. To be honest I don’t remember where I read the recipe. It was not this one ( Andouille Cornbread Stuffing Recipe | Bon Appétit ) from Frank Brigtsen, although this is a reasonable version. The important part of the story is the first time I made it, I searched the web for ‘andouille’, and largely by chance ended up ordering some from Jacob’s World Famous Andouille in La Place Louisiana.
I was interested in the recipe I suppose because by that time I had made a number of trips to New Orleans, and had eaten andouille and other smoked sausages in gumbo, jambalaya, red beans and rice, and so on. But I had never really thought specifically about the andouille itself, and to that point had never attempted to purchase andouille sausage at retail. I was busy with work at the time, and Jacobs offered other products of interest - smoked sausage, tasso, black eyed peas (was planning hopping john for New Year), so I ordered. The product I was shipped by Jacobs was marvelous - very high quality, meaty, large visible chucks of pork butt, deeply, deeply smoked with pecan wood - some fat, but no tripe, so the antithesis of it’s french namesake. This was as good, or better than the andouille I had been served in all those great dishes in New Orleans. And as it turns out Jacobs and the other smokehouses in La Place provide andouille and other products to most restaurants in New Orleans.
The andouille cornbread stuffing was a hit with my extended family and remains so today, so it was a no brainer for the next and all subsequent years. However, the next year I was busier than ever with work and failed to order in time for the holiday. This led to a time wasting, sad journey through what is called ‘andouille sausage’ in other US cities. I was living in San Francisco at the time, not a bad place to source many, many ingredients, but what I found was either tasteless precooked (boiled) products (Aidell’s, Hemplers, etc, and later in Seattle, Uli’s), or local, ground raw pork sausage with ‘andouille spices’ added. From experience I can tell you these are not a substitute at all, and far inferior to sourcing a decent smoked sausage from a local BBQ restaurant or smokehouse which, while better is still definitely not cajun andouille.
Early last November we spent two weeks in an uptown New Orleans rental within blocks of Rouses, Winn Dixie, and Whole Paycheck. With the pandemic and all, we were cooking more than half our meals and also looking to source some andouille to take back home for Thanksgiving. So we spent a fair bit of time shopping these venues and more. While what we found (mainly at Rouses vs the others) was better than elsewhere - think products you can order from the Cajun Grocer - but all of it still fell well short of authentic andouille. I am told Cochon Butcher sells a reasonable facsimile, but I have not yet experienced that first hand. Clearly what was needed was a quick, 30 mile road trip to the mecca of cajun andouille, La Place Louisiana.
For me, La Place Andouille can be summed up pretty quickly as Jacob’s World Famous, Bailey’s, and Wayne Jacobs Smokehouse and Restaurant (no relation to Jacob’s WF). Jacob’s WF and Bailey’s are just store fronts essentially next door to each other on Airline Highway, the main commercial drag in La Place. Jacob’s is especially tiny, with room for maybe 3 people to stand, shoulder to shoulder, 4 if you really really like each other, and the service can be a little brusque probably because there is so little room for customers. While they both have similar smokehouse items, Baileys being a bit larger has a broader product selection overall. WRT the andouille itself, Jacobs is much smokier than Baileys, thus both have their fans. Wayne Jacobs Smokehouse is located just under 2 miles away, off the commercial strip and differs in that it is a lunch restaurant (11-2) that also has food cases with longer shopping hours. Wayne Jacobs andouille is a little bit spicier while still nicely smoky.
So depending on how you feel about driving 60 miles round trip just to quickly buy andouille out of a deli case, you may want to plan a lunch or other related excursion. The weekday crowd at Wayne Jacobs Restaurant is largely tradespeople, so while it was full when we arrived, the place had pretty well cleared out by 1pm. Good southern fare here, and huge portions.
Be aware that in the last few years an ‘Andouille Trail’ trade association has popped up. This revolves around the 3 smoke houses, and consists almost entirely of restaurants which may well be of interest for a better junket, and local markets which I didn’t really appreciate as the couple we stopped into didn’t seem to have any more andouille related items than we found at Rouses in town. As we had already had lunch at Wayne Jacob’s, the only restaurant we stopped at was the Frisco Deli on the main drag near Bailey’s. It seemed pretty nondescript but had killer chicken and seafood gumbo. We bought a container of each and really enjoyed them both over dinner that evening.
If you make the drive, on the way back i’d recommend a short side trip to the Bonnet Carre Spillway. It’s about 7 miles down river towards NOLA on backroads vs the interstate. This drains the Mississippi into Lake Pontchartrain during extreme high-water, so i’m sure it is more exciting to see in the spring. We were there during low water, but it was still pretty fascinating to me anyway. You may want to read up on it a little first to understand what is going on there, or risk finding it quite dull. Farther down river towards the city is the Destrehan Plantation Museum which might be of interest depending on your thoughts about antebellum Louisiana. We did not bother, though I did tour the place once about 40 years ago.
Anyway, La Place Andouille, it is definitely a thing.