I’ve been having a number of dinner parties with non-wino friends recently where I act as the informal sommelier. Here are rough impressions from three recent dinners…as these dinners were not mainly devoted to wine tasting but instead to conversation on other topics, I did not take formal notes and these are impressions from memory. Also FYI that I generally do not decant wines but just leave them to open over an evening.
DINNER #1 – this was at an old school British friend of mine’s house, and differs somewhat from the other dinners in that I did not supply the glasses. He had very beautiful but very old-fashioned cut crystal wine glasses that had a much smaller bowl and mouth than the glasses I normally use. This was a salutory reminder of how people back in the day used to manage their wine consumption, but honestly it also limited the bouquet and even flavor expansion as compared to more modern glasses, so I am really not entire sure of these impressions as compared to what they might have been in other settings. In particular I don’t think the Talbot and PB performed as well as they might have.
1986 Talbot – always love this wine. It’s very 1986, with an outer sheath of tannin and a steely, mineral, and even cold character. But there are all kinds of black fruit subtleties and depth blooming underneath if you wait and pay attention. Here it didn’t bloom as fully as it has before for me given the small glasses and the fact that it was drained quickly by a large and thirsty table. It was still very elegant, crisp, and classic aged Bordeaux, also very “more-ish” and good with food because of the great structure and acidity. But it didn’t display the depth of fruit I’ve experienced before from it.
2004 Pichon Baron – other times I’ve had this wine it’s seemed very much in its prime drinking window, with a soft, charming, and even hedonistic quality. But here with the pop and pour (and again, rapid consumption in small glasses) it was more reserved, structured, and tannic. Fine structure and classical Bordeaux qualities but actually drinking young tonight.
2006 Dominus – the difference from the two Bordeaux was obvious, as this was notably softer than the Bordeaux and had a lot of milk chocolate notes. A bit lacking in acidity compared to the Bordeaux on the table though, which I haven’t previously found with Dominus.
2019 Beychevelle – the host actually reciprocated my wines with this one. This is probably the best and most interesting wine I have had provided to a dinner party by a non wine collector, normally I dread “civilian” wine contributions. But as I said this was an old school British guy so knew his Bordeaux, even though he isn’t a collector or nerd. All I can say is WOW if this is new era Bordeaux then sign me up! What was striking is that it was simultaneously fruit-forward and open but also had a beautifully elegant structure and was very transparent to and complementary of food.
DINNER #2 This one was also with non wine geeks but they were perhaps the most wine attuned of the bunch and there was a lot of wine discussion. This was the only one at which we were able to crown a WOTN, which was the 2011 Ridge Monte Bello (for me), and the 2015 Drouhin Chambolle Musigny premier cru (for everyone else)
2011 Ridge Monte Bello – there were fantastic deals available on this wine for a while because of the reputation of 2011 in California, I think I got it for $130. It is a really excellent Monte Bello though. It seems to be rounding into shape earlier than other years, as it is harmonious and vivid and food-transparent and doesn’t seem to have the intense acidity and oakiness that has sometimes blocked appreciation of MB under 15 years old for me. Just beautifully pure, spicy, cabernet fruit that is a very good food match right now. Wild berries and not overly heavily black-fruited or very light red-fruited, just perfectly poised in the middle like great Cab can be. WOTN for me.
2015 Drouhin Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru – this was the WOTN for the three other people at the table, and perhaps “nose of the night” for me. The nose was absolutely incredible, just wave after wave of intense florals and juicy ripe strawberry. A cloud of gorgeous wine scents. On the palate you could feel this wine sort of barely holding it together, as it was plush and nicely sweet and very enjoyable but also had hints of alcohol and tannins lurking around the corners of the palate. Maybe a bit young in terms of the tannin, you could definitely tell it was from a warm year but that didn’t ruin it at all. Full of the trademark Drouhin softness, from the nose to the palate, but also quite rich.
2001 Trotanoy – heavy and rich palate feel on this one, soft on the tongue, but the palate did not have a lot of subtleties too it, more a generic velvety Pomerol feel and a nice plummy quality. Had a yumminess to it but felt like it was not expressing itself fully as compared to the other two wines on the table which performed fantastically well. A good wine but not up to the competition tonight.
DINNER #3 Just a small casual thing with a friend.
2013 Bertheau Chambolle-Musigny Charmes – got a great deal on these some years ago, like $50 a bottle for a case. My friend was unfamiliar with Burgundy and as soon as he put his nose in the bottle he was like, “I’ve never had a wine like this before, what is it?”. So this lived up to the Burgundy legend! Very crisp and airy and Chambolle, a very pretty subtle red fruit sweetness but so light that it almost tart on the back end. Quite a contrast with the Drouhin the other night which was also very Chambolle but much plusher and more hedonistic. Excellent food wine and beautifully subtle, you had to go looking for the flavors but it was very elegant.
2006 Taittinger Comtes Rose – nice strawberry-ish feel to it and good texture but not a lot of complexity as yet, perhaps these should wait for a bit.