Quick 6 day trip to Paris and Burgundy - 2019 edition

Thanks for the notes Fu! Regarding the Xavier Caillard wines: the whites are great, tough very hard to find as he makes often only 300bt for a cuvée. The most recent release was the 2004 which is drinking beautifully but still on the young side. The wines are kept in barrel untill bottling and they are topped up, a bit like Ganevat’s vignes de mon père but this is chenin blanc, not savagnin which really makes it a bit denser.

1 Like

Nice notes Charlie. Thanks for taking the time to write it up. I’m pretty much in the same boat on the wines, but I liked the Overnoy more than you didn’t and didn’t like the Duroche as much. Good trip. I’m still recovering.

Gonna have to go to Paris again to try the white! Love me some chenin blanc

Pffft…

And ONLY 6 days in Paris/Burgundy - Amateur! Plus all that hipster wine and crappy Nth Rhones…


Seriously though, enjoying the write up!

We also loved Bon Georges, good food, good list, great staff!

Glad you liked Soufflot, although I would have done the LB or MG!


Next time you should look at staying at Anthony Halls place “Chez Hall” in Meursault, fantastic spot and fabulous digs…

https://www.burgundyman.com/

Great trip notes.
Another +1 for the friendly staff and the Polmard beef at Le Bon Georges.
No +1 for La Cagouille because you all just need to simply stay away and stop pounding their white burg carte.
But a very big ++1 for Paul’s recommendation of Chez Hall in Meursault as the accommodation choice for a visit to Burgundy. That large but beautifully furnished and decorated 1st floor kitchen/dining/living room is a fantastic, generous space in which to entertain family or friends, prepare your Poulet de Bresse, wolf it down with appropriate Burg treasures and then sit back and contemplate life’s pleasures in front of the fire.

I looked at chez hall but 1) we wanted to be in walking distance of beaune city center 2) needed four bedrooms.

Preferably 8 bedrooms cause we all feared the plague tyler had.

You could have walked to Beaune Centre from Chez Hall. Might have taken you a while though.

Great nots Charlie. Trip sounds incredible. Couldn’t find a video link for the Roulot though. By the way. day on the Boucheres love huh ?

Day 5 - slacking off.

We had very little planned for our final day in Burgundy. Just one tasting and a lunch then off to Dijon for our 4pm train.

Our visit was at Hubert Lignier with Laurent Lignier. Ryan set up the appointment through Rosenthal who graciously set us up with Laurent.

I previously had a chance to taste with Laurent when he brought his 2014s to taste in Los Angeles. I really enjoyed the combination of that bright red fruit set with the structure. Everything seemed a little brighter and complex than when his brother/father we in charge of the wines. Also Laurent was a great ambassador of the domaine/region. Even in the short one hour we spent a couple of years ago, he was breaking out maps, detailing the vineyards and giving the wines a real sense of where they came from.

Suffice to say I was looking forward to the trip.

We tasted the 17 in barrel as he has yet to bottle. Typically the wines stay in barrel for 20+ months and are a combination of new/used oak.
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
The standouts are all the wines from chambolle, the intense morey st Denis 1er VV (value play of all burgundy at the price point? And an every vintage buy) and the clos de la Roche.
⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀
Laurent also blinded us on one of the best echezaux I’ve had in recent memory, 2008 echezaux. He only produced it from 2005-2010 and a limited bottling at that. The grower took back the grapes for themselves in the 2011 vintage. Probably seeing how insanely good the grapes were under Laurent’s guidance. ⠀⠀

We headed over to lunch at La Ferme De La Ruchotte

WELL WORTH THE VISIT. About 20 minutes west of Beaune and into the countryside. I believe only open for lunch. It was just us 5 at lunch, almost like having lunch at your friend’s house. Food is casual but delicious.

Incredible meal. The pork chops were the best pork dish I have ever consumed. Everything is sourced from the farm but there’s no lack of depth in the food. The wild pig was slaughtered earlier in the week. ⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀

Oh also the 2016 Roulot Perrieres was a beassstttttt. Action packed with material. The bottle was bursting with intense fruit and a vibrant waxy texture. This is definitely one of the more densely built Roulot Perrieres I’ve had in awhile.

After that, we headed off to Paris for our final night.

Udon, beer, tempura, falafel were consumed. Souvenirs and gifts were purchased for families. No other wine was drank on this trip.

I like this thread.

Thoughts on this trip.

  • We expressly did the trip without dining at any Michelin starred restaurants (or purposely at least). Mild regret on my part as I’d love to have sat down and eaten some haute cuisine, but I enjoyed how casual our meals were. Since these are all people I drink/eat with on a regular basis back on this side of the Atlantic, it was basically us just transporting our regular meals to a new locale. If anyone has hung out with us, you’d know that means it’s a good time of revelry and fun. So in the end, I really enjoyed the laid back nature of our meals. We got to explore more, spend less time in a single restaurant without the constraints of a many course menu.

  • The letter i on platform 1 in Gare de Lyon is oddly, the only letter on platform 1 not capitalized. Won’t make that mistake again.

  • Renaissance Republique is a great location. Hotel is very modern/clean and reasonably priced. Good call Ryan, highly recommend it for stays.

  • Wine prices on lists have really gone up since I was in France last (2015). I guess all of Burgundy pricing has gone up. Still deals to be had based on current market costs.

  • Burgundy is burgundy. If you’ve never been, gotta go visit. Restaurants are great, plenty of wine to drink (if that’s your thing), walking the vineyards, meeting with the wineries. Plenty of great Airbnb to rent as well.

  • really wish we had more time. Scheduling issues stopped us from spending more days unfortunately. My wife already texted me during the trip “DON’T EXPECT THIS TO BE AN ANNUAL THING”. ha.

If I could afford it, my wife would have no problem with that! Heck, she was the one who pushed for me to go to Burgundy to celebrate my 60th almost 5 years ago.

Oh geez, most importantly I forgot to post about a new development coming soon.

A new domaine we’re opening - Clos de la Clos. Only one wine will be made, from the monopole vineyard of Clos de la Clos. Run by four Americans.

We’ll soon be building the extra wall, tearing out the plants and creating a very very small vineyard. Petitioning for Grand Cru status. Please see the subtle grade change as it move from left to right.

Might be le Clos, Charlie. Better check. So it’d have to be Clos du Clos.

doesn’t roll off the tongue quite as well.

Probably 15 Rousseau Chambertin. Not any clunkers wine wise from what we ordered, pretty lucky.

I’m still disappointed we didn’t get chicken wings.

you have confused me. lol

Now I know why you missed Falltacular. I was hoping to re-connect with you there Charlie.

Unless I missed something in all of your marvellous posts, you only hit the pooper once on day 1 and based upon the quantity and types of food you consumed, I happy you made it back, albeit with a few extra pounds waiting to be evacuated.

Great write up. Alway enjoy your creative and imaginative descriptors that allow for vicarious visualisations, tastes and tactile sensory experiencing. It is so effective, I’ve taken a few digestive aids and am rehydrating.

  • 1… [cheers.gif]