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WINE TALK
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Chefs Table @ Callas The Hague..jpg
Barry Rothof
Chefs Table @ Callas The Hague.jpg

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We had a 8 course lunch at Restaurant Callas * The Hague and were seated at the chef’s table. The wine service by maître and sommelier Menno Verhaar was brilliant! All wines blended perfect with the refined dishes, top-quality ingredients with clean, precise flavours. Many thanks to Marcel van der Kleijn and his team for this exceptional culinary experience!

Tartar of beef, caviar ‘Asetra Amour’, mayonnaise of crustaceans.

  • 2005 Diebolt-Vallois Champagne Blanc de Blancs Fleur de Passion - France, Champagne, Cramant, Champagne (1/26/2014)
    Fleur de Passion is the jewel in the range from the house of Diebolt-Vallois. Fermented and aged in (Burgundy) barrels, it is only made in the very best years. A wine of richness and depth, delicate, round and creamy. Well-structured and long. Terrific stuff! (93 pts.)

Crispy tartelette of scallops, Parmesan cheese, black wintertruffle.

  • 2011 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (1/26/2014)
    Fesh, pure and elegant nose of juicy lemon. On the palate supple and full, with weightless lemony finesse, very 2011 with round soft acids. Charming delicious! (91 pts.)

Langoustines roasted, own sauce, gremolata, blood orange.

  • 2006 Coche-Dury Meursault Les Rougeots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault (1/26/2014)
    A complex and challenging nose. On the palate rich, ripe yellow fruit, with the classic Coche Kink. Very deep and fine acidity structure, ending powerful and long. Incredibly high quality for a Meursault village! (93 pts.)
  • 2006 Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru (1/26/2014)
    What a wine! This was fabulous from first sniff, expressive on the nose and palate. With powerful acidity, refined citrus notes and high-toned minerality. The explosive and stunning finish is lingering on and on. Wow magnifique! (95 pts.)

Skatewing sautéed, velouté of leek, sauce of lobster and red wine.

  • 2007 Clos Rougeard (Foucault) Brézé - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (1/26/2014)
    Rare, old vines Chenin Blanc from the Foucault’s own vineyards. First smoke and sulphur on the nose. Very nice purity of fruit, very clean and fresh, evolved tremendously in the glass. With complex notes of dried fruits and excellent acidity. A fantastic Bottle! (93 pts.)
  • 2009 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (1/26/2014)
    Fabulous complex blend of black fruit and soil aromas. On the palate the wine is deep, pure and complex, with refined and well integrated acids and tannins. There’s good grip on the long and intense finish. Needs time, this will be stunning! (94+ pts.)

Sweetbreads of veal sauteéd, picked with black wintertruffle, potato mousseline, pointed cabbage.

  • 2000 Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru (1/26/2014)
    Lighter-coloured and medium-bodied with lovely soil tones, and more fascinating terroir aromatics. Delicate and very transparent, with refined intensity and exceptional lenght. A wine of elegance, richness without heaviness. Brilliant! (95 pts.)
  • 2001 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Cuvée Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru (1/26/2014)
    This was more reserved, displaying some richness and robust qualities, It was still a bit square and rugged, with good length and grip on the soil driven finish. This was lacking an extra dimension! (92 pts.)

Anjou pigeon ‘Royale” roasted, own sauce, ‘le Puy’ lentils, parsley, beetroot.

  • 2006 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambertin Grand Cru (1/26/2014)
    Extremely rich on the nose. On the palate pure, elegant and complex with a good concentration of black, red fruits and spices, with fine round tannins. Ful and powerful with elegance and finesse on the very long finish. A stunner of a wine! (95+ pts.)

Vacherin Mont d’Or marinated duckliver, black wintertruffle.

  • 2004 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St. Vivant - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Romanée St. Vivant Grand Cru (1/26/2014)
    Very intens nose with spices and earth. Some green elements fading nicely into the deep and complex palate. With nuances of earth, game and smoke all wrapped in a powerful muscular finish. Due to the vintage a good but not great RSV! (93 pts.)

Souflé of bagged cheese, exotic fruits, sorbet and coulis of exotic fruits.

  • 2006 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (1/26/2014)
    Expressive aromas of candied pineapple, fresh juicy nectarine, peach, lime and grapefruit in a rich bed of brown-spice botrytis. With extraordinary length, refinement and texture. Delicious! (93 pts.)

Posted from CellarTracker

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Wow, I wanna do that lunch! Great notes, Barry.

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Light dinner I hope Barry. Bravo.

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Great lunch!

2000 Mugnier wines, both Bonnes Mares and Amoureuses, are very nice. Refined and seductive. Liked them a lot.

2006 Rousseau Chambertin is a great wine. Towering above the CdB.

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When the langoustines and pigeons bring their own sauce, do they have to pay corkage or something?

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Amazing. Was the Mugnier ready ?

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Thank you for that great jealousy-inducing glimpse into another world!

Awesome.

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Great domaines and wines. See the 04 DRC is evolving losing some GM character. Cheers Mike

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Yen a qui s’emmerde pas!..

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Thanks for the notes and pictures Barry. What a lunch.

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Re, the Rousseau Chambertin and Clos de Béze, what is the difference between them if you taste them side by side?

Maybe, Chambertin is male and virile. It is bigger and more tannic. It lacks a bit of finesse in its youth, but it rounds off to give a wine of more concentration and depth. Clos de Bèze is more mineral, more complex, more delicate?

Btw, Clos de Bèze can be labelled Chambertin, but not vice-versa, Bèze is in principle better quality?

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This bottle was ready! Will keep for another decade in a cold cellar … but why wait?

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I think it really depends on the vintage. For example, the 93 Beze is much more structured than the elegant, more ready to drink Chambertin. Just had the side by side a couple of weeks ago.

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On the blessed times I’ve had them side by side, I’d agree with Roger’s assessment.

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Agreed and thanks for the notes.

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Yes we tasted them side by side. Indeed, we tasted the whole 2006 Rousseau wines side by side. We do that every year at release. Fascinating way to compare and contrast the wines from that vintage.

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Thanks all for the notes on the Rousseau Chambertin and Clos de Beze !

Number of years for an optimal tasting of Chambertin and Clos de Beze according the Rousseau website ;

  1. Vintages giving fruity and balanced wines to drink young, such as : 1986, 1992, 1994, 1997, 2000, 2004, 2008. (15/25 years).

  2. Medium to long ageing vintages, such as : 1985, 1987, 1989, 1998, 2001, 2003, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2011. (20/30 years).

  3. Beautiful to exceptional quality vintages with power and balance. Of very long ageing potential, such as : 1983, 1988, 1990, 1991, 1993, 1995, 1996, 1999, 2002, 2005, 2012. (25/35 years).

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Funny they put 12 above 10 and 09.