Please Settle This Once and For All -- Do I Store Wines Sideways or Not

I would not store tawny or Colheita Port upright unless you intend to drink it in the near term. Those wines will be ruined by extended exposure to oxygen. I think the reason some people store them upright is because they feel these wines are not necessarily intended to age in the bottle, and should be consumed in the short run after sale (although I think Dirk Niepoort, among others, believes that extended bottle age is desirable even for tawny-style Ports). So, yeah, if you intend to drink them soon, it’s fine to store them upright. It would take several months for the cork to deteriorate. However, if you plan to let them sit in the cellar for a year or more, they should be stored horizontally.

Mind you, that is for bottles with corks. Any bottle closed with a simple stopper should be stored upright (and is clearly intended by the producer to be consumed early).

Sherry is often bottled with a little crappy cork. They don’t seal all that well. Storing the bottles on the side risks getting sticky goo on other bottles. There’s no reason not to store them upright. I’d imagine the same goes for Madeira. They’re already oxidized so you do no harm.

I agree with Rick - I’ve never heard of alcohol reacting with the cork to produce taint. Tran - whatever sources you’ve been hearing from are imaginative, not necessarily credible. If you have taint, you have it. There are all kinds of micro-organisms that may be found in cork - it’s a porous material that was outside for most of its life. Any bark has various fungal organisms, bacteria, and who knows what else. TCA is a specific taint, but not the only one, and alcohol is generally toxic, so it’s not likely that the alcohol is going to CAUSE taint.

As far as acidity goes - there’s little that’s more acidic than Tokaji-aszu and that gets stored on its side for years and years and years. Ditto some of the whites in Rioja, Germany, and elsewhere.

Finally, as to whether or not you should store the bottle on the side - it’s more complex than most people realize.

In some ways it shouldn’t matter. It’s far more convenient to stack them in great heaps on their sides than to stand them up. But you have a cork, which SHOULD be a perfect seal, and you have a capsule on top of that most of the time. The cork should not “breathe” and the humidity in the air space in the bottle is going to be close to 100 percent.

So think about the logic. If your liquid has to touch the cork to keep the cork moist, and the cork is drying from the top end, shouldn’t moisture be wicking out the top? Therefore shouldn’t the entire cork be wet?

But that’s not exactly what happens. Cork is mostly air - something like 80 - 90 percent. It’s bark, so is a kind of wood, but while “wood” is mostly cellulose, cork cells are mostly suberin, which is a kind of wax that you also find in plant roots. That’s pretty impermeable. Several things happen and they’re not really understood, but it’s not about keeping the end of the cork wet to keep the entire cork moist.

When you squeeze the cork to put it into the bottle, you compress the air spaces in the cork. Eventually it springs back as some of the air dissipates. But if you look closely right after bottling, sometimes you can see tiny bubbles from the cork - squeeze a sponge while it’s submerged in a pot of water and you’ll see the same thing. That’s one source of gas into the bottle - usually the headspace because if your’e smart, you don’t put the bottle on its side immediately after bottling.

Over time, the cork cells in contact with the glass eventually lose their flexibility or resilience. That’s true of any closure - rubber and plastic as well - and the greater the pressure against the glass or metal or whatever, the more rapid the decline in flexibility of those cells. So the cork as it sits in your wine bottle goes thru some changes in the first months or years. So far so good.

How would oxygen get into the bottle?

Well, gas is diffused through random motion - motion that’s increased as temp increases and the kinetic energy of molecules increases, making them bounce into each other faster.

For gas to diffuse INTO the bottle thru the compressed cork, first the molecules must go thru the capsule. Nobody ever talks about that, but surely that matters? Otherwise why wrap your food with Saran Wrap or aluminum foil when putting it into the fridge?

Secondly, there has to be higher pressure and outside the cork than inside the bottle, perhaps because of higher temps outside the bottle, to cause that diffusion. Thirdly, the air has to diffuse from a lower atmospheric concentration into the higher concentration in the cork cells, which have been compressed. Fourth, the gas has to go thru all the air spaces and curved passageways in the cork.

Finally, the bottom of the cork has air spaces that get filled with fluid and tiny particles, and in sweet wines sometimes tartarate and other deposits, essentially blocking them as passageways for air/oxygen.

If you’ve jammed up the bottom of the cork by having the wine on its side for a while or whatever other reason, you can plug up those spaces on the bottom. Wine doesn’t really diffuse thru the cork body itself. If it escapes due to increased pressure in the bottle, perhaps because of heat, it first pushes the entire cork and eventually seeps around the cork. Mind you, the cork itself is also under the same temperature pressure so the internal pressures of the cork to some degree work against the wine, but because the cells in contact with the glass are not as flexible as those internal to the cork after time, they can allow some passage of wine.

People say that wine has been stored on the side for a long time, therefore it’s the “correct” way to do it. But that’s like saying we’ve been sacrificing virgins every other year and haven’t had a volcano erupt since anyone can remember. There just aren’t that many studies, especially controlling for all the variables.

In my own case, I’ve had bottles standing for many years now. It wasn’t intentional but the more I thought about it, the less I worried about it. Opened a 2000 Cab Franc last night that had been standing for 8 years. No problem. Ditto with a number of wines from the 1990s. Whether they would have been the same had they never ever been stored on their sides, I can’t really say. But looking at the cork from that 2000, it has a couple of streaks maybe a quarter up the side and that’s it.

I’ve heard of other people doing this as well. Have always been curious as to the logic behind storing Champagne and other bubbly upright. Any insight?

There is actually a pretty big advantage to storing upright – sediment collects on the bottom and will not be disturbed when you pour. Store on the side, you get a bolus of sediment on the side that can mix in when you put the bottle upright. In the olden days of fine service, wine used to be carried to the table on its side (in a small basket) and decanted over a candle to avoid sediment mixing in. This is pretty crucial for aged Port, as I understand it.

Quick and easy answer:
Custom Racking.

it doesn’t really work. Racks are designed so the bottles slide in from front to back. if you put them in sideways, they kind of bunch together and you have to take them all out to get to the one in back.

Glad I could help.

This is essentially why- Storage of wine - Wikipedia

While most wines can benefit from lying on their side, Champagne and other sparkling wines tend to age better if they are kept upright.[1][2] This is because the internal pressure caused by the trapped carbonic gas provides enough humidity and protection from oxygen.[1] The preference for upright storage of Champagne is shared by the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne (CIVC) who conducted an extensive study of Champagnes that were stored in various conditions and orientations. This study found that Champagne stored on its side aged more quickly because oxygen was allowed to seep in after the Champagne corks lost their elasticity due to contact with the moist wine.[9]

Frankly I don’t know if this is necessary or not, but since I have narrow racking and most champagnes aren’t a great fit and I have enough space for upright storage for the somewhat limited amount of champagne I have (3-4 cases at a time), this works for me. :slight_smile:

I gotta say there is a whole lot of questionable information in that Wikipedia article, particularly on the topic of different effects of pressure when the air bubble is in different positions of the bottle. And if Champagne corks have been shown to lose their elasticity due to contact with liquid, why wouldn’t that be true for still wine? Higher total pressure due to trapped CO2 gas has nothing to do with it, the partial pressure of water and alcohol in the head space will be the same for both bubbly and still wines.

Since when is a Wikipedia article the gospel of truth? This was simply an easy find to link to. As for beers, I store them upright as one of the producers (can’t recall which) specifies to do so on the label. If I didn’t have the space to do so, or had a much larger amount of champagne, I am sure pragmatism would prevail. At this point we are dealing with traditions and opinions. Neither are that amenable to change.

Perhaps since Champagne corks are composites, they have different properties?

Or because they rely on such a high level of expansion (compared to regular still wine corks) due to the pressure- the loss of elasticity is more damaging.

Scott, John, and Alan - thanks for the thoughts on Champagne storage. I’ve never been to Reims, but it would interesting to see how (upright or on-side) some of the more historic producers store their bottles after disgorging. I would imagine that some of these houses must have large libraries of back-vintages.

I would not store tawny or Colheita Port upright unless you intend to drink it in the near term. Those wines will be ruined by extended exposure to oxygen. I think the reason some people store them upright is because they feel these wines are not necessarily intended to age in the bottle, and should be consumed in the short run after sale (although I think Dirk Niepoort, among others, believes that extended bottle age is desirable even for tawny-style Ports). So, yeah, if you intend to drink them soon, it’s fine to store them upright. It would take several months for the cork to deteriorate. However, if you plan to let them sit in the cellar for a year or more, they should be stored horizontally.

Most Tawnies and Colheitas are meant for early consumption. There is a big debate whether or not they will age in the bottle. Some feel they will, others not. Dirk Niepoort, as you mention, believes his wines will age and improve in the bottle because he doesn’t filter before bottling. Other producers feel otherwise. I do agree that Niepoort wines will improve. A few other shippers as well, including Kopke and Wiese & Krohn. None of the British shippers IMHO. They will change, but not necessarily for the best. They tend to get musty rather than improve. All my old bottled Madeiras, Setubals, and old Sherries are upright. Mannie Berk of The Rare Wine Company definitely recommends storing Madeira upright. My newly bottled wines (10 years or less) are on their sides, mainly because they are easier to store that way, and I think that the newer corks (especially for Madeira) are better than the historic examples. Don’t have too many old bottled Tawny and Colheita Ports because I drink them up too soon. [cheers.gif]

@Dave: Yes, I have tried Recioto di Soave. Great stuff. I still have a bottle left of Ca’Rugate La Perlara.

Interestingly, a Niagara winery here called Colaneri makes white Reciotos from Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer that are quite interesting. I especially like the Sauvignon Blanc Recioto.

In regards to Champagne storage, I don’t think the Wikipedia link is quite right. In the past I talked with a few of the folks who were involved in this study at the CIVC and it basically comes down to this:

  • Champagne can be stored either upright or on its side without worry of the cork drying out as you might worry in regards to a still wine. This is because the space between the cork and wine is more humid in a sparkling wine.
  • Champagne stored on its side has a slightly higher possibility of the cork failing because if a bottle is on its side and has liquid that is pressing against the cork and could cause a failure mode to appear. Bottles stored standing up don’t have the wine pressing against the cork and bringing the failure mode to the front.
  • Champagne stored on its side has a slightly higher possibility of wine taint in the case where TCA (or something similar) resides only in the cork and not on the glass. If the wine comes in contact with this area of the cork, it could contaminate the wine.

The end result is that upright Champagne storage is slightly better than side storage although the statistical relevance is very, very small. The real world conclusion is that both work so do whatever works for you remembering that side storage takes up way less space. For very old bottles, it might be wise to store them standing up if possible just to prevent cork failure. As far as old Champagnes in producer cellars, a lot depends on quantity. You normally see a mix of upright and side storage on old vintages with side storage for younger vintages or high volume older vintages because the benefits of upright storage do not outweigh the inconvenience.

“more humid in a sparkling wine”? Really?

Tom,

I never checked the science behind it and am only going on what the CIVC researchers said which was that the CO2 that wasn’t in solution and was trapped between the wine and cork created/enabled a more humid environment than a still wine. I never questioned them on this, but would be happy to learn if this isn’t true.

This may be what the CIVC people involved in the study say, but I think it fails the science test.

First point: humidity inside a closed bottle of either still or sparkling wine must be pretty close to 100%, and I’d bet a bottle of Krug that there isn’t a significant difference in humidity (significant with respect to cork seal integrity) between them.

Second point: pressure inside a Champagne bottle is elevated above atmospheric. That pressure is the same whether it’s liquid or gas in contact with the internal surface of the cork. If anything, the cage is more likely to keep the cork from moving in a sparkler than in a still wine, but in reality when the seal fails it is usually around the interface between the outside surface of the cork and the inside surface of the bottle neck.

Third point: If the cork has TCA contamination on the part of the cork that is exposed to the interior of the bottle, it is going to get into the wine eventually, regardless of whether it is stored on its side (happens immediately) or upright (takes a little while for it to diffuse through the headspace). Either way, at only a few PPT to cause trouble, if you are storing the stuff for more than a month, I’ll bet a second bottle of Krug that if the cork is tainted, the wine will be tainted, even if the wine NEVER EVER touches the inside of the cork.

Three strikes and the CIVC sources are OUT! The posts by GregT and Alan Rath sound more credible to me. While I am inclined to believe the empiric evidence from the CIVC study that says the bottles stored upright tasted better than the ones stored on their sides, the above explanations are not the reason.

David,

For the first point, you may indeed be correct, I honestly don’t know. Whatever tests were done apparently showed either the bottle environment was more moist or that Champagne corks had a higher moisture content than still wine corks when both were stored upright. This was said to be due to the presence of CO2 causing a more humid environment, but maybe it was really due to something else? All I can think of that would relate CO2 to a more humid bottle environment is that there might be some type of very small greenhouse type of effect going on in the bottle.

For the second point, you simply have a greater chance of a cork failure mode in horizontal bottles especially if they are older. If a wine is standing up, the cork isn’t going to fall into or out of the bottle; if a wine is on its side, the cork could fail and wine could get out. I’m oversimplifying it, it isn’t going to be common, and you can debate its statistical relevance, but I believe this one.

For the third point, I did attempt to mention the reasoning behind this in my original post. There is the chance that TCA (or some other agent) only contaminates a portion of the cork that does not touch the glass. In these cases, you would benefit from upright storage. Again, the taint cannot be on the glass and the wine has to have not been exposed to the tainted part of the cork at any time during transit. All of this happening would be rare and it may not be statistically relevant, but all things being equal, it would swing things the way of upright storage.

What I do know is that it really doesn’t make a difference if you store your Champagne upright or sideways.