Traveling to Piemonte early August for a week. Set on restaurants and have three winery visits booked – Gaja, Voerzio and Ceretto. I’ve had no luck getting into the other top tier places – Conterno (both), Giacosa, Cappellano – either online or through concierge. Are there tour companies that might have access? I’ve also looked for charity auctions, but no luck.
Also, aside from wineries and dinners, we don’t really have any particular plans. We’ll walk around all the towns, but anything else particularly fun to do?
I’d strongly recommend intentionally adding places that aren’t as prestigious as those. It’ll make a good contrast, and make it more likely you’ll experience Piemontese hospitality. e.g. As you wanted to try Cappellano, try Franco Boasso (Gabutti), who is an old-timer producing good traditional wines at very fair prices. His Barbera excellent too, shining at a decade old. Likewise Mauro Molino when in La Morra for Roberto Voerzio. They did lean modern for a while, but may have swung back a bit with the kids (who probably have their own kids now). They really were professional yet affable, the winery in safe hands for sure.
August can be hot, so try to adapt to it as Italians do, either resting or eating at lunchtime. Visit villages or Alba/Asti either morning (9-1pm) or evening (4-8pm). Some wineries will take visitors over the extended lunchtime, but we’ve tried to avoid that.
For walking I’d recommend the walking paths through the vineyards. Splintered ownership being a wonderful thing, as open access is the norm, allowing you to freely walk through the vineyards you already know of. There are some decent hills, and if it’s wet can be tough going, or very dry can be a little slippy on the steep sections. Either way, decent comfortable walking shoes ideal (i.e. don’t need walking boots, and trainers fine if the weather isn’t extreme).
For other stuff to do, the local tourist office for Langhe, Roero & Monferrato is excellent (one of the best in Italy IME), with organised walks, balloon flights, etc. Their website also good.
Gotta know someone. Although Roberto may see you if you are from the USA and are very persistent and have a very flexible schedule and are willing to wait until the last minute for a potential confirmation the day of.
There are so many very good producers to fall in love with in Piemonte that I would do everything possible to avoid most larger operations.
I was only in the Barolo area for a few night when I was there but I think Serralunga especially but also Monforte were terrific and more rural, wilder if you like that.
Thanks for the tip on the tourism office! I’ll be in La Morra with my family in June/July (visiting the region for the first time).
To the OP, I am finding that they fall into 3 general categories: 1)- can set up tastings pretty easily online (mid-large well known producers in the US like Vajra, Vietti, Cavallotto, Oddero, Elio Grasso, Fratelli Alessandria), 2)- email and don’t get a response (top tier producers mentioned), 3)- eventually get a response but asking me to reach back out 2 weeks or even upon arrival (small producers with no hospitality team)
Castello di Verduno was a friendly tasting, involving the wines of two family’s holdings (IIRC marriage brought them together), hence Barolo and Barbaresco. You may also double take at the family surname
Their Basadone worth a taste, to get a sighter on the very local grape Pelaverga.
Another top recommendation as far as I’m concerned is La Vite Turchesi in the town of Barolo. Amazing wine bar / tasting room with tons of high end Piedmont wines by the glass on Coravin. Stefano is one of the owners there and we just were there last fall after visiting for the first time over 10 years ago, and he remembered us from that one visit. Amazing, friendly service. Can’t recommend it enough.
Not that you need another restaurant rec, but it’s my civic epicurean duty to suggest dinner at Castello di Sinio. It’s a can’t-miss IMO and consistently one of the best meals we have in Piedmont. The food caught me off guard in the best way. After a few nights of the Langhe classics (which I love, don’t get me wrong), it’s nice to have a menu that goes in different creative directions. And the wine list has some awesome tiny Barolo producers buried in there that you’re just not going to see on other lists.
The dining room is small and made up mostly of hotel guests, so make sure to call ahead for reservations.
It’s fantastic. We stayed there several years ago and ate at the restaurant 2-3 times during our stay. Denise is an incredible host and chef. Wine list is excellent too.
