Chris, I feel the same way about new world wineries. Littorai is another example where I don’t prefer the wines made from owned vineyards vs. non-owned.
But in Europe the balance seems different. Though I can think of many exceptions, for the most part my preferred offerings are estate bottlings. In France (Burgundy/Bordeaux/Rhone) I lean heavily towards estate crus, or at least ones in which the wine maker has a very long term contract on the vineyard, so has responsibility for the farming. Italy and Germany seem even more biased towards estate-owned wineries among the high end craft producers.
Tony Soter owned no vineyards. All he had was a brand in Etude.
Kosta Browne was also just a brand the first time they sold. The Lewis Cellars location is also the old location of Etude.
On the big business side there is the belief from some to not own any physical assets. Its all about the IP.
Prob the best example of this is Meiomi. Didn’t own a single Vineyard and the Wagner kid sold the brand for how many hundreds of millions?? Not a wine for most Berserkers obviously…but a helluva business case for not owning your own land if your goal is to make $$$.
I’ve always felt the reason for not owning vineyards–from the winery’s POV–is that very few have the money to do everything, own and operate vineyards, winery, etc.
It’s as though the grapes were a hot potato. First the grape grower turns the spud over to the winery, which, if all goes well, pays sometime the next year. Then the winery makes and bottles the wine and puts the wine into somebody’s warehouse. Then the hot potato goes from a distributor to a retailer or restaurant and finally to the end consumer.
A lot of wineries wouldn’t be in business if they also had to grow the grapes. Plus, we’d get a lot more uninteresting wines, I think. Part of the excitement of buying grapes and working with farmers is that you can try what fits your winemaking style, or experiment. And you can also shift gear much quicker when demands change.
Thank god for farmers, because the vines would all die a horrible death if this city boy tried to farm them. Although I did sign a lease on a very small vineyard this year, I was self aware enough to hire the farming out immediately!