Own-Rooted Vineyards - List and Thoughts?

Yes, very sandy soil…70% sand with equal parts clay & silt. That’d make life pretty hard for phylloxera.

I guess we could say, “Go pound sand, you little buggers.”

*** BUMP ***

Here are a few articles on wines from own-rooted vineyards, old and young, historical associations with Phylloxera, and possible explanations/rationalizations for their appeal to wine aficionados:


Wine & Spirits magazine
“Post Pasteur”

by Peter Liem
April 17, 2010


Stanford Wine Society
“On Roots, and Time Travel”

by Jessica Audrey Lee
March 21, 2014


Ideal Wine
“Franc de Pied Vines: History and Impact on the Taste”

November 8, 2016


HTC Experiments
“Franc de Pied and Historical Reconstruction”

by Frank Gissen
December 20, 2020

According to Albert J. Winkler, post-Phylloxera growers/producers planted vines on their own roots for economic reasons, not for quality:



UC Berkeley, Bancroft Library: Oral History Center
[u]Albert J. Winkler: Viticultural Research at UC Davis, (1921-1971)[/u]

Interview by Joanne Leach Larkey & Ruth Teiser
Published in 1973
p. 48


"…[Winkler:] ‘Mr. [Louis A.] Benoist [of Almaden] was bound and determined to grow grapes of good quality, and he was still, I think, in the back of his head, convinced that grapes on their own root made better wine than grapes on phylloxera-resistant stock.’

"Teiser: ‘Do you think so?’

"Winkler: ‘No.’

"Teiser: ‘What’s the advantage then?’

"Winkler: 'The advantage on their own roots? Getting them into production a year or two earlier. And they’ll probably get a little more crop during the first fifteen or so years. And then as they go out, if they do, the loss won’t amount to anything, because they’ll have reaped the benefit.’

"Teiser: ‘So it’s a calculated risk?’

Winkler: 'Yes. And if phylloxera hits them, it won’t take everything at once. It’ll go block-by-block, and they can replant as it goes along. So they’ll have that replanting job to do, but they’ve paid that off in the better yields up to that time’…”.


Archive.org link (p.138):
Viticultural research at University of California, Davis, 1921-1971 : oral history transcript / 1970-1972 : Winkler, Albert J., 1894- : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive

I’m late to the party, but I can’t resist this thread.

I think the texture of the soil is the determining factor, so places like Etna, which is all degraded lava, and the Campi Flegrei, which is pure volcanic sand, don’t have any problem. Etna is now a mixture of grafted and ungrafted; the Campi Flegrei is I am told entirely ungrafted. There are a lot of ungrafted vineyards in the volcanic appellations in the south of Italy, as Otto suggests.

The wines from the Campi Flegrei are picked in late September in a hot climate but usually come in at 12.5% ABV or so, which lends some support to the idea that own-rooted vines ripen at lower sugars.

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Yes, exactly. The issue with a lot of soils is that they expand when wet, then contract as they dry. This pulls the soil slightly away from the plant and allows the louse access to the roots. Fine sand doesn’t expand and contract according to hydration level.

-Al

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I am working with a block of Cinsault planted at the Zaca Mesa Vineyard that was planted in 1974 - own-rooted Cabernet. It was the grafted to Cinsault in the mid-90s.

I am also working with a block of Gewurztraminer that was originally planted in 1978 to own-rooted Chardonnay and grafted over about 20 years ago.

Good stuff . . .

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I am excited to hear about your new endeavors, Larry! I have enjoyed your Facebook cellar videos, as well (even if Pinot Noir isn’t my forte).

It appears that more small patches of own-rooted vines are attracting attention, from Santa Barbara County and beyond.

Rootstock Trivia:

116-years-ago, in an excerpt from his “Q&A” newspaper column, UC Berkeley Professor Frederic Bioletti stated that grapevines grafted onto Riparia rootstock “bear larger crops of larger bunches and berries, which ripen from one to two weeks earlier than the same varieties grafted upon Rupestris [St George], or growing on their own roots ungrafted.”

Professor Bioletti maintained that “the stock has a very distinct influence on the nutrition of the scion. That the stock can influence the scion in what may be called varietal or specific characteristics is very much in doubt.”


California Digital Newspaper Collection
Pacific Rural Press, Vol 70, # 15
"The Vineyard: The Question of Stock and Product"

by Professor Frederic Bioletti
October 7, 1905

"…There is no doubt that the stock influences the scion very appreciably in such characteristics as amount of crop, size of bunches and berries, time of ripening, vigor of growth, and all those characteristics which are influenced by soil and climate. In other words, the stock has a very distinct influence on the nutrition of the scion. That the stock can influence the scion in what may be called varietal or specific characteristics is very much in doubt. Most investigators deny that it is possible for the stock to communicate any of its specific characteristics, such as shape of leaves, or flavor of fruits.

"The characters, however, which can be influenced by merely changing the nutrition and environment of the plant are so great that it is sometimes very difficult even for the practiced viticulturist to recognize on first sight a variety growing in a locality where the conditions are very dissimilar to those of his own locality. The same is true to a smaller extent regarding varieties grafted on different stocks.

“Practically, the influence of the stock on the scion is of great importance, for the qualities influenced are some of the most important from a practical point of view; for example, it is found that in nearly all conditions vines grafted upon Riparia bear larger crops of larger bunches and berries, which ripen from one to two weeks earlier than the same varieties grafted upon Rupestris, or growing on their own roots ungrafted.”


Bioletti worked to establish the Cienega Valley’s El Gavilan Vineyard in San Benito County which, for many years, was one of the few places on the West Coast where Phylloxera did not make an appearance. Even today, surviving old-vine plantings in the region continue to bear fruit on their ungrafted roots.


Google Books
California Fruit Grower, Volumes 37-38 (page 5), March 7, 1908
Grapevines planted at “El Gavilan Vineyards”

Internet Archive
Pacific Wine and Spirit Review, 1912
First Vintage Produced at Gabilan Vineyards:

California Digital Newspaper Collection website:
https://cdnc.ucr.edu/?a=p&p=home&e=-------en–20–1–txt-txIN--------1

I remember David Lett telling me that in the thinking in the '70’s was “the only way planting on own roots would be a problem was if someone was stupid or greedy. Turns out both happned.”
Does Temperance Hill still have some own rooted blocks?

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You can add to the list in Oregon;
Parts of Van Duzer Vineyard.
Bednarik Vineyard.
Vita Springs.

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Here is an article detailing the specific traits and uses of modern winegrape rootstocks.


UC ANR
California Agriculture Vol 62 # 4, p.202-207
“Vineyard Nutrient Needs Vary with Rootstocks and Soils”
by J. Lambert, M. Anderson, J. Wolpert
2008
https://doi.org/10.3733/ca.v062n04p202

"Abstract:

"Sustainable vineyard fertilization can lead to cost savings while protecting the environment. However, appropriate fertilization conditions depend on the rootstocks, which differ in their uptake of macro- and micronutrients, as well as on the vineyard soils’ physical and chemical characteristics, which affect the soil nutrient reservoir.

"We studied identical sets of 14 rootstocks on three different soils. Rootstocks had a significant impact on petiole levels of nitrogen and potassium throughout the growing season. Pruning weight and fruit yield also varied considerably by rootstock and site.

“However, rootstock performance was not consistent among sites, nor was the seasonal pattern of change in nitrogen and potassium consistent among sites. The observed differences emphasize the impact of soil texture and nutrient availability on plant growth. Further studies will help guide the development of site-specific sustainable fertilization regimens.”

Here are a few online resources related to own-rooted vineyards:


· Pix Wine
“The Own-Rooted Wine Revival”
by Ines Salpico
October 13, 2021
by-line: “Why winemakers are on the hunt to find and preserve ungrafted vines”

· La Clos de Miège
"Free Yourself from Cultural Models: The Example of Own-Rooted Vines" (French language site)
by Florence Monferran
April 27, 2020

Several modern European own-rooted parcels are identified on the Association Les Vieilles Branches website. One also can read early 20th Century accounts on the introduction of Phylloxera-resistant root materials.

· Association Les Vieilles Branches
“Our Conservatories of Own-Rooted Vines” (French language site)

The Association Les Vieilles Branches promotes awareness of surviving own-rooted sites. However, the content on its website betrays a certain dislike of grafted vines. While there exist circumstantial advantages in cultivating grapevines on their native roots, it should not be necessary to malign the use of rootstock.

I find it unfortunate that the words of ampelographer Lucien Daniel (1856 - 1940) are included among the entry’s historic quotations. Mssr Daniel was reputed for controversial perspectives on the introduction overseas of American rootstock. A stinging rebuttal to Daniel can be found in a June, 1908, Australian newspaper article.

In 1908, Lucien Daniel published The Phylloxera Question: Grafting and the Wine Crisis with a Preface by Gaston Bonnier. The volumes are available to read online (in French):

· La Question Phylloxérique; le Greffage et la Crise… v.1-2

· La Question Phylloxérique; le Greffage et la Crise… v.1 c.2

Cogno has a pre phyllox Barbera

Yep, it says so right on the label. It’s from a sandy area in the cru. And it’s amazing, best Barbera I have had. Could be coincidence. But it’s really stunning. Drank it there in 2014.

According to Tegan Passalacqua in a GuildSomm article, the northeastern reaches of Contra Costa County harbors what might be the highest proportion of own-rooted plantings in California.


GuildSomm
“Lodi, Looking Forward”
by Matt Stamp
May 6, 2014

“…The Highway 12 Wine Route (and a Contra Costa Detour)”

"When one imagines the Highway 12 wine route, images of Russian River Valley, Sonoma Valley, and Carneros materialize; yet the highway traverses the Sacramento River and California Delta as it leads eastward toward the Sierra Foothills, running right through Lodi. We followed the 12 eastward, detouring through a grape-growing sector of Contra Costa County in and around Antioch. In the shadow of Mt. Diablo, Antioch - which earned the ignoble distinction of having one of the nation’s highest foreclosure rates in 2008 - is a curious mixture of run-down and ramped-up: vineyards lie scattered among abandoned almond orchards, broken-down motor homes, tightly spaced McMansions, jalopies (El Camino is the favorite brand), and ancient, towering olive trees. All framed against a backdrop of migrant labor, meth addiction, and hard-core religion.

"‘The wind here drives people crazy,’ Tegan [Passalacqua] interprets, as we pull up to ‘Evangelho Vineyard’, a 40-acre site originally planted in 1889 and a component site for Turley’s ‘Duarte’ Zinfandel. The vineyard, planted on deep wind-deposited, 40-foot-deep Delhi sands, is an example of mixed blacks - a blend of head-trained varieties in the vineyard, led by Zinfandel, and supported with a mixture of other red Spanish and Rhône grapes, teinturiers, and the occasional white variety. ‘Evangelho’, for instance, is roughly 60% Zinfandel, with Mataro (Mourvèdre), Carignan, Alicante Bouchet, Palomino and perhaps another odd variety or two. Rarely is the identity of every single individual vine known beyond a shadow of a doubt in historic mixed blacks vineyards. And as one might suspect, in such sandy soils phylloxera is not an issue; in fact, Tegan speculates that Contra Costa County might hold one of the largest concentrations of own-rooted vineyards in California.

“Another champion of CA’s historic vineyards, Morgan Twain-Peterson of Bedrock Wines, is sourcing from this site, and Neyers makes an ‘Evangelho’-designate Mourvèdre. All of Antioch’s vineyards lie outside the boundaries of any specific AVA, amid its artifice of minimum-wage dreams and vacant potential. ‘Evangelho’, ‘Salvador’, ‘Pato’, ‘Del Barba’…the historic sites are only a mile or two removed from the Delta, where winds and water moderate temperatures and relieve any worry of frost pressure. Organic farming in this sunny, windswept region is a fairly easy proposition - if the grower is on board - and most of the old-vine vineyards here are dry-farmed…”.


GuildSomm website:
https://www.guildsomm.com/

Wine Berserkers
“Contra Costa Wine Heritage” thread:
https://www.wineberserkers.com/t/contra-costa-county-wine-heritage/121833

Drew - the Syrah I make from the tiny Knowles vineyard in Lodi, is own rooted and planted in 1964. It was smuggled in from Australian Shiraz clippings by a prominent local wine family and was, as far as I know, the first Syrah planting in the region (and probably one of the earlier ones in CA). Mokelumne River AVA has a lot of sandy soil, so own rooted vines tend to survive better there. Fields Family Wines used to make from the same vineyard, but called it the Postage Stamp Vineyard. It only produces 25 to 50 cases a year. Here’s a little video link on Instagram I made of it recently:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZvt_t8Fgra/

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Marcarini has an ungrafted dolcetto from century-old vines in sandy soil, called Boschi di Berri. The couple of times I had it it was wonderfully fruity.

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Excellent info, Adam! [cheers.gif]


I am glad to see more attention being paid to Lodi’s treasures. Also, it is fascinating to track mid-1900s vineyards that are aging-up into the “Old Vine” category.

Syrah is unfortunate in its susceptibility to disease. Thankfully those vines look incredible, however!



Lodi Winegrape Commission Blog
“The Significance of Own-Rooted Old Vines in Lodi”

by Randy Caparoso
November 2, 2020


Lodi Winegrape Commission Blog
“Old Vine Plantings Going into Lodi’s Best Known Vineyard-Designate Wines”

by Randy Caparoso
November 20, 2020

The following information resources focus on a multi-year study performed in Washington on grapevine rootstocks’ influence on vine vigor, yields, and overall quality of fruit.


Terroir Review
“Own-Rooted: A Vine Stock Nursery Story”

by Meg Maker
April 30, 2017

“…Are un-grafted vines necessarily better? Or more precisely, are the resulting wines? That debate has long raged. Some people cite research, including a study conducted in Washington State, that asserts no perceivable qualitative difference in the wines of grafted and un-grafted vines. Other tasters contend that own-rooted vines produce wines of greater finesse and purity, albeit conceding that these factors may accrue more to planting density, vine age, and other viti- and vinicultural factors than to the absence of grafted rootstock…”.


Washington State University
College of Agricultural, Human, & Natural Resource Sciences: News
“Rootstock vs Own-rooted…Can Washington Growers Use Rootstocks and Maintain Fruit and Wine Quality?”

March 29, 2012


American Journal of Enology & Viticulture
March, 2012
“Rootstock Effects on Deficit-Irrigated Winegrapes in a Dry Climate: Vigor, Yield Formation, and Fruit Ripening”

by Markus Keller, Lynn J. Mills, James F. Harbertson
Am J Enol Vitic. March 2012 63: 29-39; published ahead of print November 11, 2011
DOI: 10.5344/ajev.2011.11078

Other writings:

New York Times
“A Champagne True to Its Roots”

by Eric Asimov
June 14, 2006


Stanford Wine Society
“On Roots and Time Travel”

by Jessica Audrey Lee
March 21, 2014