Overnoy dinner in Seoul July 4th '24

Last night 10 happy nerds gathered in Seoul for a night of Overnoy BYOB. As everyone knows, the bottles are scarce and so a theme is difficult to establish. So for this night no VSO or Vin Jaune, but a fun compilation of recent bottles and a few bottles with age. Plus a few random bottles from the area.
For many around the table it was a first with the cuvees of the domaine, and for a few it was a nice revisit.
This dinner was arranged by Sun “Jura_Wine” of instagram, Kyoung-Won Lee and YD Pochana.

Sorry for the briefness of my notes — was very caught up with speaking and eating too :man_shrugging:





Overnoy/ Emmanuel Houillon - Poulsard 2015

Rosewater, tomato, orange peel, slight VA.
Nice texture, but albeit somewhat round. Acidity very well integrated. A little underwhelming.
Had a bit of a discussion with the owner of the bottle on the way home in the cab about the soundness of the wine, and we both agreed that this might have been a bit off. Checking CT reviews and i see similar notes on a bit of funky character in this vintage.

Overnoy/ Emmanuel Houillon - Poulsard 2018

Much sharper than the 15 obviously. Acidity is still very present and promising for laying down longer. Makes me think the 15 had somewhat prematured in comparison. This bottle shows completely clear in the glass, while the 15 shows a to me at least typical cloudy poulsard texture. Long life ahead.
Strawberries, smokiness, lemon zest and florals.

Overnoy/ Emmanuel Houillon - Poulsard/Trousseau 2018
Compared to the Poulsard it’s a bit more “upright” and more direct, with the Trousseau adding some black pepper notes and dark berries to the mix. A bit darker in color too, but equally jumpy and volatile and with a bit of time in the glass it developed a bit of mousiness.

Overnoy/ Emmanuel Houillon - Poulsard 2004

Very Burgundian with forest floor and red berries, but again a dusty quality. Acidity is fully integrated.
Rosewater, strawberries, and a herbaceous ring to it. Just so well composed and beautiful. My red of the night and possibly of the year. To me underlining why exactly the reds of this domaine is so highly regarded. I haven’t had many poulsards or any jura reds that has come close to this level of complexity and finesse.
It was red of the night for most.

Overnoy/ Emmanuel Houillon - Chardonnay 2016

Super deep nose of apples, beeswax and a bit of honey, butter, quince. High acidity and a bit thick textured. Can lay down for long. Very promising

Overnoy/ Emmanuel Houillon - Chardonnay 2004

Somewhat mellowed out nose compared to the 16. Very energetic and still a moderate acidity present. Can last for another decade but i’m not sure it’d evolve for the better. But while the Tournelle fell apart when it warmed up, the Overnoy kept unfolding, so I’ll have to hold this higher.
This was white of the night for the table.

Domaine de Tournelle - Corvees sous Curon 2005

Honey and apples, well fused together with a lot of punch. The nose is very similar to 04 Overnoy.
Very good acidity and fruit levels, and even a beautiful bit of sweetness left to balance it. Almost calling this my white Chardonnay of the night.

Overnoy/ Emmanuel Houillon - Savagnin 2011

Pears, honey melon, thyme and a somewhat Chenin’ish vibe to it. It drinks very beautifully. Very well composed and broad shouldered with those oxidative vibes. With a bite of comte on the side it was so satisfying.

Domaine des Murmures - Savagnin 2018

Packing quite a punch at the first whiff. Tropical fruits, more green than normal. Very good acidity and fruit. Lemon, slight bit of honey, a bit of herbs. Of course a bit reductive here and a little tight as it’s a recent release. Has a long long life ahead. Big wine

Ganevat - VdMP 2006

Nutty, honey, white chocolate, lemon zest and just a kaleidoscope of scents.
High acidity and long finish. Salt, caramel and very vin jaune like, but without the sotolon craze of most VJs — just oxy goodness for days. Impressive.

Domaine Labet - Vin Jaune 2005

Somewhat sweeter and less acidic nose than I’m used to. Acidity well integrated and really in a good place.
Marzipan, raisins(yes obviously), and stewed apples. Really sound bottle. The Labets recommends to drink on release, as I’ve heard, and this bottle is a good example of that. It could have had a little more punch a few years ago.

Macle Cotes du Jura - Pioche 2009
Was very deep and oxidative in nature. Most the table guessed Chardonnay. My guess of year was late 90’s because the color, acidity and roundness of it suggested that. So a little surprised to see that it was 09.
Nutty, bruised apples and a candied vibe to it.

Overnoy/ Emmanuel Houillon - Vin de Liqueur 2016

Very strong nose of spices like clove, star anise, cinnamon and just a general “Christmas” theme. Might be a little wrong context on a 30 degree rain season night in Seoul. Good acidity and sugar levels. Should be able to age a few decades with ease.

Octavin - Selim Bassa NV
Finally another blinder, but no one was able to say what this was. A fine du Jura i think? Based on Poulsard. Dark hazelnut in color, a bit of red fruit present but not much. Very nice and very surprised as i didn’t know this cuvee existed.

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Wonderful.

Selim is indeed a Marc. The current release is a blend of 2007/8/9.

Thanks for the info! I appreciate that.

Great stuff!

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Marc or fortified? I can find little info on it

Copy and paste from the email from Alice:

Selim Bassa, Marc assemblage 2007/2008/2009

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15 overnoy poulsard is just a terrible wine. i tasted it with the official importer right on release and it was essentially oxidized (some mouse too); tried the second release lot, as well as bottles from other countries/importers all with similar results. should not have been released imo.

tournelle curon is one of the most underrated wines in the jura. ages fantastically well, the 2010 is a total mindbender.

Sounds like we very much agree on that(I mean this bottle wasn’t “terrible”). The bottling was the first i think. No mouse here though and surely not oxidized, but if the other vintages are showing that well then yep, it’s a little baffling why it was released.

And yes i’m also puzzled why the rest of the table didn’t think higher of the Curon. Will see if i can find the '10 then! Thanks for the tip.

I had the same experience at a restaurant in Talloires. Terrible, indeed

Thanks for the notes!

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Just read the notes from the host on IG. Not the same impressions :sweat_smile: (I trust you on this one as you don’t have the same professional interests…)

Yeah i’ve been wondering about it too. I think we mainly differ on the Tournelle and the 15 Poulsard.
I absolutely agree on the other wines though. Would’ve been boring if we all agreed :slight_smile:

That Macle is interesting. It’s the one that sees more than 10 years under flor I believe. No wonder it showed like an older wine. Not my favourite Macle but super-interesting to drink I think.

3 years of aging. I think it was a one-off https://www.shiverick.com/_files/ugd/bf7a7c_c01fde71294d4c26a9d0aedc1ce47610.pdf

Thanks for the tech sheet @Tom_G_l_a_s_g_o_w !

I’m embarassed to say that i had this cuvee a year ago here in Seoul, but no notes where made and not even a photo was taken. It’s safe to say their Vin Jaune is one of the best, but this is not that. Interesting to drink for sure yes.

I wonder why i see it so often over here, but i can’t find a single caviste in Europe that sells it :sweat_smile:

Interesting, it has been available a few different places in Europe but now seems to have been sold out. At least one of the places that sold it marketed it as “sous voile 10 ans”. So interesting to see the tech sheet - thanks for that!

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Thanks for the notes Mads
Let’s do an Overnoy evening in CPH when you’re back

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