Had our annual Monday Table options game last night at Melbourne’s Gaea restaurant. Brilliant food and service. A lot of tricky options questions.
Cheese Curd
Pea Wagyu Sopressa Tart
Sweet Potato Pancake
2008 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Elisabeth Salmon : A fresh nose of strawberry, lemon bread and chalk. Fine and focussed. Cut by a sharp line of minerally acidity. Complex and detailed and very long. Classy.
2019 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny Blanc : Has a wheaten biscuit note, along with sappy orchard fruits. The palate is rich and unctuous. It is powerful and layered and has good depth and chew with length to burn.
2017 Y de Yquem: Has such an over-the-top nose and one that I’d be glad if I never smelled again. Durian fruit, mango, gooseberry and petrol. Rich, unctuous and round. Very little acidity.
Razor Prawn / Young Almond
2002 Maison Leroy Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières : Has an ‘old school’ Meursault feel to it. Rich and heady, plenty of almond butter and ripe peach and a touch of white mushroom development. There is a touch of volatility, that didn’t bother me. The palate is layered and it has underlying coolness. There’s some custard apple and it is persistent.
Jason’s Mushroom / Fermented Black Truffle / Burnt Rosemary
1959 Cuvée du Vatican Châteauneuf-du-Pape : Some mushroom development along with aromas of menthol and raisins. With air there’s raspberry fruit at its core. It breathes up really well and is silky and quite complete in the mouth. The finish is carried by sweet tannins.
White Asparagus / Arrow Squid / Kombu
2010 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart, Grand Cru : An inviting nose of red fruits and spice. It has flesh and there’s something cool and stony lurking. It is quite creamy through the mid, deep of flavour and long and expansive. Tannins are ripe and acidity fresh. Really good wine.
2010 Maison Albert Bichot Romanée St. Vivant, Grand Cru : Complex aromatics of raspberry, cherry, floral spice and root vegetables. The palate is fine and lacy and possesses good detail. The finish has cherry stone coolness and structural elements are supportive.
Baby Abalone / Chicken Liver / Choko
2013 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Grand Cru : Drinking beautifully. Notes of white peach, aniseed, spearmint cream, honeysuckle and smoky mineral. The palate is buttery rich, layered and detailed. It has power with precision, excellent build and a fresh and very long tail.
2011 Vincent Dancer Chevalier-Montrachet, Grand Cru : The nose is gently tropical and the fruits have a candied quality. There’s a light nuttiness and some spice. It is silky and voluminous, with nice underlying minerality and good balance and poise. Took a while to open up in the glass.
Rockling / Young Pine Needle
1996 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune: Smoky mineral, fresh lime and gin botanicals. Has a custardy feel in the mouth. Just starting to dry out a tad but very tasty. Lively of acid.
Gaea Bao / Cultured Butter
2002 Domaine Fourrier Griotte-Chambertin Vieille Vigne, Grand Cru : Drinking beautifully. Plenty of forest floor to the aroma along with smoked meats, Hoisin and Asian spice. Rich and powerful, layered and plush. Builds through the palate and fans out. Excellent presence.
2002 Domaine Bruno Clair Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, Grand Cru : Tight at first, showing a little meaty reduction. Breathes up to show plenty of spice and delicious cherry fruit. It has a hint of underbrush development and is very minerally and detailed. The finish is fine and expansive.
Short Rib / Preserved Quince / Radish
2016 Penfolds Special Bin 111A: Deep purple and seriously inky. Blueberry, blackberry, plum and graphite. Quite massive but also light on its feet. Waves of fruit lapping over ample structure. Needs two decades in the cellar.
1982 Massolino Barolo Riserva Vigna Rionda: A really good bottle. Plenty of Indian spice to the aroma along with some coal smoke, blood and meat. It is rich and chewy, with good depth and lovely florals as it takes on air. The finish is sinewy and very long and savoury.
Green Apple / Sourdough / Lemon Thyme
1989 Hugel Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles : Some truffle development and quite honeyed. Luscious and layered. A suggestion of lavender and apricot. Plenty of brown spice and a hint of talk. Still loads of sweetness but also fresh and energetic.
Koji / Walnut
1960 Quinta do Noval Porto Vintage: The fruit here is of the red persuasion and so perfumed, with a sweet jube-like quality. There’s beautiful floral spirit and a suggestion of licorice. It is rich and heady, immaculately proportioned and the finish drives on and on. Hard to believe its not Nacional, in fact one Port aficionado at the table noted that it could have been, as the label was a bit different and there was a section missing from it.