A Mosel Trocken:
Molitor, Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Riesling Auslese*** 2015 S Reinhardt: 99+ Points
„Pure and flinty, with perfectly ripe stone fruit aromas that are seamlessly intertwined with the flavors of crushing stones, the 2015 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (White Capsule) is powerful, rich and incredibly juicy on the palate but, at the same time, pure, finessed and crystalline. This is a highly complex and salty, endlessly juicy and stony Riesling of great precision and salinity. The finish is long and stimulatingly salty, very rich and powerful and still marked by its yeasty texture. Fermented and aged in 3,100-liter barrel from Stockinger. Bottled in September.”
None of my Mosel loving friends would consider Molitor top tier, nor do I. But differing opinions are great things.
Russell - out of interest, who IS the top tier? Even though I saw myself listing some producers in an earlier post, I have the sense that this is quite diffuse. Is Loosen top-tier? Are there 12-20 in that echelon? Personally, it’s sufficient for me I like the wines from Molitor, occasionally more or less than from other excellent producers.
Well everyone’s is different. I wouldn’t argue with anyone who disagreed (even if the include Molitor!)
My list would be (Mosel only, Kab and sweeter, not in order)
Prum
Muller
Fritz Haag
Lieser
Grunhaus
Zilliken
Schaefer
I think Loosen made great wines until the early nineties.
Hi Russell,
An interesting list and thanks. What do you think ‘went wrong’ with Loosen after the early nineties? Curious to know.
Cheers,
Nicos
Not sure Nicos, lots of other calls on time and changing winemakers I suppose. I don’t know if wines other than Dr L use bought in grapes. I’m sure someone else will. I’ve never visited Loosen.
I think the Erdener Praalat Auslese/GK is still quite often a very good wine, it’s the only one I remember buying in the last few years.
For some people, Markus Molitor is the top producer on the Mosel. But there are others who are less enamored.
As for Russell’s list, those are the producers that are often listed at or near the top. I would rank Weiser-Künstler among the best.
I agree with Russell that there seemed to be a drop in quality at Dr. Loosen, especially in the mid-aughts. That said, I liked what I tasted there a few years ago. The estate still has the same winemaker.
Lars. I don’t think they have the same winemaker since 1990s? Certainly a member of the team has left since.
I believe that Bernhard (“Bernie”) Schug started when Ernie Loosen took over the estate. Bernie was there when I visited the last time around.
Stephan is right. This is one of the best young dry Rieslings I ever tasted.
Loosen had a come back.
Unlike many large estate owners, Markus Molitor is truly making the wines in the cellar and is very consequent about old vines, low yields, naturally occurring yeasts, and long aging on the lees. He also favors skin contact for most of his wines. This gives them a different texture. If you like light, crisp Mosel wine, this isn’t the address for you.
Nice list, I’d probably drop Zilliken to second tier but broadly agree otherwise. Strongly agree on Loosen not being up there currently as well. Haven’t had enough Molitor to definitively say they don’t belong in the top tier, but the wines that I’ve had haven’t made a compelling case - definitely keen to try more when I can though.
I like Muller. I have a very hard time finding the wines. The last time I was able to buy a small cross-section was 2004/2005 vintages. They were very good! Top tier at the time, no. Next level, yes.
Where the estate is now - I wish I had a chance to know.
Not a big fan of Loosen.
The wines from Egon Müller seem to be going from strength to strength based on the reviews of various guidebooks and critics over the last several years. The cellarmaster Stefan Fobian was especially pleased with the quality of the grapes in the 2015 vintage, and Egon Müller told me that the grapes from the 2016 vintage were very healthy. I look forward to tasting the 2016 Scharzhofberger Kabinett.
My point was that Molitor, besides making brilliant sweet wines, (like this: Parker: 99 points
„The 2015 Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese *** (Golden Capsule) is clear, fresh and concentrated on the nose nose where deep and smoky flavors of crushed stones are displayed, giving just a hint of the true potential of this wine. Round and seamless on the palate, with perfectly ripe but vital and fresh fruit, this has a gorgeous mineral raciness and tension. There is also a quiet stream of perfectly balanced and concentrated melting stones and very fine salts that flows over the palate. This is an exiting, very well structured and tightly woven Riesling legend that will still fascinate wine lovers in 50, 60, maybe 70 years. This is a laser beam of great Riesling, tight and concentrated but still not that open like the corresponding Wehlener.” )
He has a special touch regarding the Trockens. From Mosel! Get that!
Thanks for the link to that older thread on 2005 GGs and GG-style wines. Markus Molitor has a long track record of making dry Mosel wine. After the lease agreement ended, Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt took back its large block in the core section of Niedermenniger Herrenberg.
Speaking of Kesselstatt, who is managing the estate since Annegret’s untimely passing?
I suspect her brother Carl Reh is managing the estate. But she gave her team specific duties. Mona Loch is responsible for sales and marketing. Wolfgang Mertes is the cellarmaster, and Michael Weber is the vineyard manager.
Glad to know that things will stay steady.