Planning a trip in the fall - any suggestions? I stayed at Bernard Loiseau eons ago (and loved it) - anyone know how its doing under his widow’s management? Also been to the Hotel de Montrachet for the snails and the breast of chicken with foie gras…anyone know if that’s as stellar a dinner as I remember?
Any other suggestions/alternatives gratefully received.
I believe I posted some recommendations in the thread Steve cited. You remember correctly, Le Montrachet is an excellent restaurant - I actually prefer their food to that of Jardin des Remparts (in the old town of Beaune).
In fairness to JdR, it’s food is very good, but it’s not as honest and “traditional” as that of Le Montrachet. JdR tries to fancy things up a bit, but I figure I get better in Paris for fancified eating. When I’m in Bugundy, I want their traditional, real deal, honest, somewhat rustic country cuisine - that’s why I always eat at Ma Cuisine when I’m there.
I first learned about Ma Cuisine several years ago from Jerome Francois - he runs his family’s Groupe Francois et Fils, one of the biggest wine barrel manufacturers in France. His roots are in Burgundy. When he suggested it to me, he said “This is where most winemakers eat” - and that sealed it for me.
It’s a small, simple place - no a/c - but I love the simple honesty of Fabienne’s cuisine. Don’t let the restaurant’s simple look fool you though, they have an incredible wine list - all the good vintages of DRC one could want (or afford).
If you’re to be in town only for a night, I’d suggest you stay in the old city of Beaune. I normally spend at least around a week when in Burgundy - winding up my Burgundy leg with a night or two in Vézelay before driving back to Paris.
I would stay in Beaune, so you can walk/stumble/crawl around without worrying about traffic stops. The French police are VERY strict in regards to drinking and driving, which is a good thing considering where you’ll be.
That said, I would eat either at Ma Cuisine (especially for lunch, it gets touristy at dinner-time) or at Le Gourmandin. I prefer the homier places to the high-end things, so La Ciboulette would be a choice too. Les Tontons in Place Madeleine is a good idea as well.
Michel, my sentiments exactly. Give me some good-sized snails reeking of garlic and some kick-ass chicken when I am in Burgundy (which is why Le Montrachet knocked my socks off last time) and I am as happy as a pig in shinola. Thanks for the reccos.
Thanks to you all, particularly to Messrs Mauss and Abood…the kind of local knowledge and expertise I’ll file away and follow when we ultimately make such a trip.
Which is to say, after all of that, we’re probably going to end up in Italy. But I have many pleasant memories of Burgundy from many years ago and I’m keen to return.