Old Corks!

WINE TALK
1

An Italian dinner with Sam, Jean, Steve, Matt, Ilene, Rob, John, George, Diane and I. We have all known each other over 15 years; in and out of each other’s lives but always connected by the internet; and what a fine thing that connection has turned out to be. ‘Nice to reconnect in person this night.

2012 Cowan Cellars, Ribolla Gialla:
Although this wine is not of continental origin, the grape is. Acquitted itself well; bright but broad, veritally correct and a pleasant accompaniment to starters and salad courses.

1997 Mascarello, Barolo Monprivato Res.:
Over the course of the evening, it “younged up” into a still youthful but well balanced expression of Barolo. Perhaps, my favorite of the evening, but only if forced to pick.

1998 Giacosa, Barolo Rocche:
Too early to this but it still has everything one would expect from young Giacosa; just not much one would expect from mature Giacosa.

1995 Biondi-Santi, Brunello:
Firm. Oh, so hauntingly delicious but firm. Years to peak.

1985 Gaja, Barbaresco Sori Tilden:
Fully resolved, tertiary, ready and maybe, just a bit passed it; but still, a lovely wine; somewhat frail in the company.

2010 Occipinti, Frappato:
Slurp-able and much more. Maybe starting to close just a bit.

1990 Ruffino, Chianti Classico Reserva:
Tight and structured and may have much more than I found.

1980 Shafer, Cabernet Sauvignon:
Before there was Hillside, this was it; fully resolved and tertiary; a lovely diversion.

Best, Jim

2

I had such a wonderful time. Rob organized quite a great meal at Piccino’s in Potrero Hill.

My take on some:

The Sori Tildin to me was the most perfectly expressed wine of the evening. It was soft, lovely, full, and aromatic. the first Gaja single vineyard I’ve had that wasn’t too young or too old (and the one I’ve had that was too old probably was heat damaged).

I think the Biondi Santi was the Greppo. I expected something more rustic and autumnal, instead it was racy and elegant with some unresolved very fine tannin. Super.

The 1998 Giacosa Roche Falletto opened up more and more and more, and by the end it was my favorite wine; maybe not the “best”, but I loved how warm and friendly and genuine it came across in spite of the obvious power (younger stronger and less floral than a regular 1998 Falletto a year ago which was beautiful but showed all it had). With each sip I thought of a leather chair in a study fuilled with books and a warm fire and a dog, none of which I have except the chair.

The Mascarello was the Ca Morrissio 97 and it’s got the fruit concentration that’s close to what the critics call liqueur-like. Then after an hour it just got ridiculously huge, not tannic or unbalanced, just huge. I had this experience with a Vogue Amoureuses earlier this year. I’d hold for five years. Nothing like the 1999 Monprivato which was too young solely because of tannin; this is just huge, fruit and structure. Rob pointed out that the combination of the lack of restraint and possible overripeness of the 1997 vintage was perfectly balanced by the producer’s restraint.

On consecutive days i had an Italian white I had not had before, Vernaccha the night befoer and Ribolla Gialla. The Ribolla is actualy quite pretty, the Vernaccha very earthy on the finish.