Some of our usual group got together at Brasserie 8 1/2 to drink some Loire wines. We had far too much wine, with about 20 bottles between 11 or 12 people. First world problems I suppose.
Purely by coincidence, almost all the wines were Chenin Blanc and Cab Franc (with two Romorantin’s and one Melon de Bourgogne). I was surprised that no one brought a Sav Blanc, Gamay, Pinot Noir, Pineau d’aunis, etc. Never the less, it was very interesting to check in on a lot of wines that I buy regularly and to try some that are new to me.
On to the wines -
2006 Luneau Papin Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Vieilles Vignes Sur Lie Clos des Allées
Very nice, if a little simple, starter. The age seems to have toned down some the searing acidity I generally expect from Muscadet. With that said, it was still very energetic and showing that great crushed seashell character that I love in Muscadet.
2013 Richard Leroy Chenin Les Noëls de Montbenault
The nose on this wine was wildly intense. This is one of the more unique Chenin Blancs I’ve ever had. Absolutely explosive aromatics of ripe fruit, rocks, and honey. Apparently, this is zero sulfur and aged in neutral oak, however I got huge amounts of sulfur-esque notes and oak on the nose. It honestly smelled super reduced to me, so I’m not sure what the deal with that is (I know others agreed). This wine was either loved or hated by everyone at the table, not much grey area.
2012 Sandlands Chenin Blanc
The one ringer of the night. Holy tropical fruit. This thing smelled and tasted like pineapple, coconut and sunscreen. Possibly I could drink it over ice with a pineapple wedge while sitting at the pool? This is indicative of just about everything I don’t like about California Chenin Blanc. Even if served blind, I doubt just about anyone would have a hard time picking out this ringer. Not my jam.
2006 Domaine du Closel Savennières Clos du Papillon
I drink a fair amount of the La Jalousie, but not much of the Papillon. This was good, but I thought the alcohol was sticking out a bit. Others seemed to like it a lot.
1993 Olga Raffault Chinon Le Champ-Chenin
Whoa this is funky. This wine is definitely not for the faint of heart due to its intense, funky, wet wool characteristics. Polarizing for sure, but I loved it.
2006 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos du Breuil
Love Chidaine. This was very nice. Possibly missing just a touch of acidity, but had a very long demi-sec finish.
2008 and 2000: François Cazin Cour-Cheverny Vendanges Manuelles Cuvée Renaissance
Drank the 2008 and 2000 side by side. Made from the Romorantin grape which until tonight I had never heard of. These two wine were spectacular. Pretty sure these were some of the WOTN for a lot of people including me. The two vintages were quite different. The 08 was extremely bright and lively, with a lot bright fruit, spice, and flowers, while the 00 was much more resolved and seductive. Almost diffucult to compare them as they were quite different, but I think I prefered the honeyed aged quality of the 00.
2011 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Clos du Bourg
Stunner. Really, really enjoyed this wine. Perfect balance of fruit (pear, apple), acid, honey, and floral overtones. Had a second pour later in the evening, and it was just absolutely singing. Loved it.
2012 Domaine Huet Vouvray Sec Le Mont
I am interested to hear other people’s opinion on this wine. It was a considerably darker shade of gold compared to the '11 Clos du Bourg served beside it. Had a very distinct caramel aroma and taste to me. I don’t want to be the first to say it and throw everyone in a tizzy, but I think you see where I’m going here…
Raffault Chinon Les Picasses Flights - 1990, 2002, 2009, and 2010
Raffault is one of the few wines that I buy in relative quantity sight unseen every year. Very much my style of wine.
The 90, my contribution, is a personal favorite of mine. Really demonstrates what aged Cab Franc is capable of. Takes on a a very silky, almost Burgundian, texture. The nose smells of antique furniture and soil, however there is still plenty of fruit. I have never had a dissapointed bottle of this. Its availability and ultra reasonable price is astounding to me.
The 02, served next to the 90, showed extremely young despite being 14 years old.
09 and 10 were an interesting comparison. The 10 was open for business, showing huge fruit (relative to Raffault), while the 09 was much more closed and subdued.
2009 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Franc de Pied
Another favorite of mine, and this did not dissapoint. Breton’s Franc de Pieds are always so transparent and energetic. Especially after the Raffaults, this showed stunning clarity. Tons of bright cranberry backed by tobacco. I could drink this all night.
2009 Catherine et Pierre Breton Bourgueil Clos Sénéchal
I thought there was something off about this bottle. It was slightly spritzy, possibly suggesting some unintended secondary fermentation. This also did not blow off as the night went on.
2011 Domaine Guiberteau Saumur Les Motelles
I’m not sure if its that my palate was beginning to fade at this point, but I did not get a lot out of this. It was extremely tight and unyielding. Seemed to have good stuffing, just needs a ton of time.
1990 Domaine Pichot Vouvray Moelleux Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette
Obviously a perfectly stored bottle. Not at all cloying. I can’t remember much besides the fact that it was delicious and I drank my glass way too quickly.
All in all, a fantastic evening. Thanks to all who attended. Looking forward to the next one.