Absolutely sensational.
The perfect wine for the chook.
1985 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet ‘Les Combettes’ 1er Cru: An absolutely majestic bottle of white Burg. Colour was great and cork in extremely tight. It had complex aromatics of white mushroom, toast, honey and truffle. On the palate all elements were totally harmonious and it still had powerful fruit. There’s great shape in the mouth and flavor invades every crevice. It finishes with minerally acidity and length of flavor is superb.
Jeremy, sounds like a terrific trip (as usual!). Glad you enjoyed that 1981 Clos St. Hune. We popped our only bottle of the 1981 about two years ago, and likewise found it to be a lovely wine. Hope the remainder of your time in France continues to be memorable – as if there’s any doubt.
Thanks Xavier. A very full schedule planned for this week.
Always a fun read, and I do have a case of 14 PYCM St A’s to drink eventually.
Thanks for the great write-up!
I’m heading to Burgundy in 2 weeks, if you happen to have restaurant recommendations, please feel free to share them!
Great write up as usual Jeremy.
Is there a stylistic difference between wines made by Pierre-Yves and his wife?
Kristof, try the following:
Caves Madeleine
Ma Cuisine
Tontons
La Cabotte
Bissoh
Le Terroir
Aupres de Clocher
Lameloise
The bistro at Levernois
Le Chevreuil
Chez Guy
Only tasted one of Carloline’s wines Sanjay so not enough experience to pass judgment.
Collected our allocation of Dujac’s '16’s this morning.
Jeremy, going back up thread a bit, I believe that Lucien Jacob’s wines are some of the very best off-the-beaten path Burgs available. The domaine’s Savigny-les-Beaune Peuillets has remarkable depth of earthy, black cherry fruit, and purity and intensity for a wine of its level. At about $35 U.S., it is quite a bargain. I don’t have as much experience with the Beaune Cent-Vignes, but my recollection is that it has that same fruit purity with perhaps somewhat less soil influence. In any case, lovely wines and thank you for reporting about them.
Jeremy, thanks for the recommendations. Ma cuisine is still a great place but IMO not anymore what it used to be, après du Clocher we did last december, the restaurant was quite empty and at the cheese we ordered another bottle. The staff was really looking at our table to get out so not a place to go again for me (in that regard I prefer le Chevreuil). And the food was lacking finesse for me. La cabotte is indeed a great place too. Plenty more optionsto try, thanks!
Head of the class, in glass?
Seriously: I find it rather confusing always changing the title of the thread … ![[headbang.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/6/666dbba4286ab2e25eea6487145d74d0e20d3a47.gif "headbang")
Thanks for the comprehensive tasting notes Jeremy!
Subscriber benefit: see the original thread title!
Hi Martin, I really like the Lucien Jacob wines. Fruit driven with the potential to age. The Cent Vignes tends to have a sweeter fruit profile and a bit more flesh.
Gerhard, when I set up this thread one of my primary aims was to confuse you. Mission accomplished.
Laurent Fournier was just a tad shabby after attending a work send off for one of his mates the night before. He reckons he pulled the plug about 4am. He was certainly in great form as he tasted through his ‘15’s from barrel and ‘14’s from bottle with us. Domaine Jean Fournier are totally biodynamic. Laurent likes his whites to spend a lot of time on gross lees and they spend two winters in his cellar before bottling. He has taken the lead from Olivier Lamy and planted some Chardonnay high density in his Marsannay Longeroies vineyard.
2015 Domaine Jean Fournier Bourgogne-Aligoté Champ Forey: Ripe and round. Full of lemon curd flavour. Low acid but a fresh mineral finish.
2015 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Saint Urbain: Has dense candied peel and peach aromas and flavours. It is full and finishes with a lick of salt. There’s good energy here.
2015 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Clos du Roy: Ripe but fine and minerally. Expansive and floral.
2015 Domaine Jean Fournier Bourgogne Rosé Marsannay: Laurent is a big fan of Cotat’s Rosé and models his on that version. He doesn’t want to release the wine too early, giving it a proper elevage. It is raised 50% in stainless and 50% in old wood. It has notes of raspberry, strawberry and earth. It is complex with a fresh mineral finish.
2015 Domaine Jean Fournier Bourgogne: Black fruit and earth. Really supple in the mouth. Good concentration for its level.
2015 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Saint Urbain: 25% whole bunch from which you get a delicate rose petal scent. It is concentrated with black cherry fruit. There’s good underlying earthy structure.
2015 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Clos du Roy: A deep purple colour. Very concentrated, brimming with black fruits. Some mineral punches through the flesh on the finish.
2015 Domaine Jean Fournier Bourgogne Le Chapitre: Very powerful, loaded with black fruits. The finish is decidedly earthy.
2015 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Les Longeroies: This is the V.O version that has no Sulphur. It is ripe and juicy with a creamy palate and black fruit profile.
2014 Domaine Jean Fournier Bourgogne: Mainly declassed Chapitre, Clos du Roy and Longeroies. 100% de-stemmed. It is very pure, direct and crisp. You get cherry and berry fruits tinged with a little earth.
2014 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Saint Urbain: Engaging aroma of cherry and dried flowers. It is round and expressive in the mouth with bright, crisp acidity. Genuinely lovely.
2014 Domaine Jean Fournier Fixin Les Petits Crais: Ripe berries overlay a bed of chalk. Very mineral, fresh and bright. 50% whole bunch, 16 months in large wood.
2014 Domaine Jean Fournier Gevrey-Chambertin: Off a 0.5ha plot in the south of Gevrey. Has deliciously ripe berry fruit, some freshly grated ginger and plenty of iron. It is a detailed wine that possesses excellent clarity and balance.
2014 Domaine Jean Fournier Bourgogne Le Chapitre: Very red and very mineral. Some spice and finishing with an audible crunch.
2014 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Clos du Roy: Pure fresh nose of strawberries, cherry and plum. It has good volume and fruit weight in the mouth. It has excellent line and is really stony on the finish.
2014 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Les Longeroies: Elegant, cool and stony. Lovely fresh berry fruits. Some violet notes to the aroma. Very fine with a puff of chalk to the finish. 50% whole bunch.
2014 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Les Longeroies VO: The no Sulphur version is good but not as good as the standard version. It is very fruity with a full soft palate. There’s some crisp acid on the finish.
2014 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Es Chezot: Quite backwards and tight but great potential here. Juicy berry fruit in the mouth. It feels really cool and is inviting. Tannins are supportive.
2014 Domaine Jean Fournier Côte de Nuits Villages Les Croix Violettes: This one is easy going and accessible. It is fleshy, full and creamy. Fruits are of the red persuasion and there’s some freshly grated ginger to the flavour profile.
2014 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Trois Terres: 2/3rds whole bunch, very low yielding vines. Juicy red and black fruits abound. It is direct and chiseled and really builds through the palate. It has great cut. Fabulous wine.
2014 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay P’tite Grumotte: Two barrels only. This one is deeply pitched. There are dense blood plums and some pomegranate as well. This is Laurent’s highest acid wine of the vintage but you don’t feel at as it is so plush. The finish has pungent minerality.
2014 Domaine Jean Fournier Marsannay Pur Pot: This has plenty of old vine sap. It is complex with dense black fruit that is threaded with licorice. Tannins are round and it has great persistence.
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La Maison du Colombier is an exciting addition to the Beaune dining scene. It touts itself as being a gastropub and it does have a very good wine list with some serious bargains on it. There’s a main bar area and a couple of caves with tightly packed lounge chairs and tables and the place has a good energy.
We got settled into our lounge area and ordered a plate of very good Bellota Ham and exceptional chorizo to partner a 2013 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey St.Aubin ‘En Remilly’ 1er Cru. There’s a whiff of smoky mineral reduction to the aroma. It is a wine that is fresh and vibrant, with perfectly ripe peach fruit and some aniseed spice. It has great shape and outstanding line.
For entrée Heidi and my Tataki of Salmon highlighted the quality of the fish. It had a drizzle of honey which made the dish just a tad too sweet for mine. Colin continued to plunder France’s stocks of Foie terrine. It was absolutely superb.
You may wish to turn away for this next paragraph because I’m going on a rant. My pet hate is when a wine is listed on a wine list, you order it and the sommelier says it is not available because it is not ready. Don’t put it on the list if you don’t want to sell it! I don’t care what you have on your list, if it’s not available for sale it is not on your list! Our somm watched my usual easy going demeanour change to sourpuss as he told me the 2013 Jacques Carillon Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru was not ready because it was closed and hence unavailable. I explained I was happy to purchase it and take the risk. He relented. The wine was as open as a 24 hour service station. He later explained that it was his last bottle. I apologized. Colin said he should have ordered more. Colin rarely shows much compassion. In fact at his 50th birthday party his brother quipped during the speeches that ‘It took Colin many years to realise he wasn’t an only child’. The Carillon was beautifully expressive with the scent of citrus blossom, apricot and white peach. In the mouth it is like Montrachet with the volume turned down a notch or two. It possesses a high glycerol palate and is layered with all sorts of mineral and fruit things. All of the crisp things come out at the back-end and it is a wine of terrific fidelity and immaculate balance.
Heidi reckons her main course of asparagus risotto was one of the very best she has encountered. Perfectly cooked, great consistency and rich and creamy. My three poached eggs with mushroom puree was splendid and a scintillating match for the Bienvenues.
We left before dessert but will definitely be back to raid a bottle or two off the list that the restaurant has two or more of so as to not offend.
Love Maison du Colombier. Apart from the time I grew too brave and ordered Foire de Lotte. Not to lose face I gobbled down the whole bloody plate of concentrated cat food goo. I reckon the monk fish deliberately grew such a freakishly large liver just to taunt me. Bastard fish!