Taking some time that I don’t have, to write down some musings on the continued Tuesday the 3rd adventures with Russell and Sam (better late than never!):
Sylvain Cathiard of Vosne: After an always interesting lunch at la Miotte, a place with real character and characters, we descended upon the spanky state of the art facilities at Cathiard. I have long been a fan of the powerful delicacy of Sylvain Cathiard’s wines, and this was my first chance to meet him in person. Within minutes, I could sense his gentle and kind spirit; it is no mystery why his wines display such a delicate intensity. Sadly enough, 2010 is the last vintage that Sylvain’s hands will touch the wines, as his son has taken the reins with the 2011 vintage. I do sincerely hope that the transition of familial power does in fact steer the domain in a good direction; I fear for the conflict of generational vision of ‘where to go from here’…
To the vino! All 2010s:
Vosne villages: a blend of three different village parcels, a total of 10 barrels made. This is simply brilliant, pale, floral, elegant, and well spiced. A fantastic villages…
NSG 1er Aux Thorey: Part of the Thomas Moillard shakedown, new to the domaine in 2006. 8 barrels. A good example of the Vosne side of Nuits, with the slightly firmer tannin, a bit of the ‘wild’ gamey side of things, but still elegant with good length. Quite nice, I give it point points, i.e. what’s the point??
NSG 1er Murgers: same deal with the vosney side of nuits, but with even finer tannin, and better length. Me likey even more…this is really nice…Sylvain noted that there was a particularly large amount of millerandage in this vineyard…
Vosne 1er Reignots: 5 barrels. From the top of Reignots, and somewhat young vines. Strikingly floral and long, with great floral drive and, one of my favorite Tanzerisms, ‘inner mouth perfume’.
Vosne 1er Orveaux: 5 barrels. From just above Echezeaux. I didn’t write anything. That must mean that it stunk, or, um, not…
Vosne 1er Suchots: 3 barrels. Classically Vosne, flowers and spice, with moderately fine tannin, good length and grace.
Vosne 1er Malconsorts: 16 BARRELS. Wow, this is the shtuff. Finely etched, delicate and filigree, this has the power without weight thing going for it and then some. Super long inner mouth perfume, I could drink this forever. If when i’m an old invalid, give me a glass of this everyday to remind me that, no matter how confused I am at what is going on, striking beauty is somewhat timeless…
RSV- 3 barrels- An additional level of power, with the intensity dialed up a notch in all departments. Filigree and weightless.
Not bad drink at all. Many many points.
Lignier Michelot of Morey St Denis:
Virgile is moving from strength to strength, having really honed and now is continuing to refine his house style. As i’ve said before, if these wines were from any village other than Morey, people would be freaking out. These 2010s had Russell and Sam oohing and aahing with each sample, as the aromatic intensity, in spite of the cold temps, was truly captivating.
Bourgogne rouge: principally from Bons Batons, this is a lovely bourgogne. I’d be a happy guy if Bourgogne always had this level of depth and refinement.
Chambolle VV- 50% whole cluster, from vines of over 50 years of age, two different parcels. Has the signature Chambolle aromatic charm, and is a very good village bottling.
Morey Rue de Vergy- 30% whole cluster. This was a stunning village. Great length, with great spice and floral qualities. Everybody’s eyes got big for this one.
Morey VV- A blend of three village parcels, Tres Girard, Chenevery (the village portion), and Cognees. 50% whole cluster. Again, great floral length, cherry fruit.
Gevrey Bertin- This has become one of my favorite village bottlings on the cote. I simply wrote ‘awesome’. At this point, people’s grunts were becoming a bit pornographic. Such stroketh the beauty…
Morey 1er aux Charmes- 45% whole cluster. Good nerve from the Calcaire, intensely spiced. Quite long. Great tension of elements here, between captivating fruit and a long mineral finish.
Morey 1er aux Chezeaux- 100% whole cluster. Almost salty with minerality, and also firmer tannin. This comes from redder clay soils, hence its broader shouldered profile.
Morey 1er Faconnieres- 50% whole cluster. Perhaps the most complete, finessed, multifaceted premier cru here. Just stunning…
Morey 1er Chenevery- from the Mother rock. Powerful, with strong but fine tannin. Great length. this will age very nicely…
Chambolle Jules- ah, the lovely, lovely princess…tres chambolle ici…all finesse and loveliness here…from Sentiers and Feusselottes, 70% whole cluster. Wow.
Clos Saint Denis- I wrote, ‘Wow, this shit is freakin’ good’. Tres sophistique, non?? 2 barrels, one of which is new wood.
Clos de la Roche- More zen focused, with greater finesse than the Clos St Denis. An absolute stunner. 5 barrels.
Charmes Chambertin- 100% whole cluster, 2.5 barrels, 50% new wood. Another jaw droppingly intense and finessed wine.
At this point (and probably since the Rue de Vergy) all three of us were just blown away, and Virgile was just smiling, proud of his work. I find that the house style is quite complete, and should satisfy all wine lovers, connoisseur and newbie; power and elegance are hallmarks here. The 2010s are knockouts.
Denis Bachelet of Gevrey:
Bourgogne rouge- 13 barrels. I was shocked to attention by this wine’s complexity and meatiness. Bourgogne level wine doesn’t get much more complex than this…From two parcels, Pressonnier and Grands Champs, from 45 and 25 year old vines respectively. Utterly delicious.
Cotes de Nuits- 15 barrels. 1/3 new wood. All Brochon fruit, a large part from Queue de Harang. This wine was once upon a time a silly value, but the world has caught up with it, with price tag to boot. A great great Cotes de Nuits, in its own class.
Gevrey VV- from 70ish year old vines. Fantastic carnal quality, richness, but no excess weight. Damn good…
Gevrey 1er Corbeaux-8.5 barrels. An additional level of depth and structure, but still soo much moderately dense extract and meatiness. Delishish.
Charmes Chambertin- 8 barrels, 90+year old vines. Surprisingly and perhaps deceptively easy to drink due to its balance and open personality. Classic Charmes, and is up there with Denis’ best. (he has a soft spot for 09, the power of the vintage perhaps being well suited to his house style).
Cotes de Nuits 09- wow. sexy time in my mouth. let’s drink.
There we go folks, my too-busy-to-be-pedantic shorthand impressions of these three houses. All three are well worth your consideration, if you can find them.