Last night, we got to see Nick and drink some really nice wines.
We started with a wonderful 2013 Taittinger CdC. One of my two favorite Champagnes (along with Dom Ruinart).
Then we went to a couple of really fabulous German Spatlesen - a 2003 from Weil and a 2005 Abtsberg from Maximin Grunhaus, von Schubert. Both really nice. I was surprised at how good a 2003 German wine from the Rheingau could be - even had good acidity. And, I am just a huge lover of the wines from Maximin Graunhaus. In times of a warming climate, there are no wines anywhere that retain acidity like those from the Ruwer and the Saar (for the latter see Falkenstein). The two wines each had a rich golden color and lots of rich honeyed fruit. The biggest difference between them was more acid in the 2005. [If you don’t know the wines of Maximin Grunhaus, learn!)
Our last flight of the night were two outstanding Burgundies - a 2013 Romanee St. Vivant from Hudelot-Noellat and a 2001 Chambertin from Rossignol-Trapet. The only issue with either one was they were too young. The RSV has a lot to it, but needs a lot more time. As for the Chambertin, I have been drinking a lot of 2001 Burgundies the last few years (including RT’s Latricieres Chambertin a couple of times) and the wines have been pretty much consistently at their peak. But, not this one. It has so much to it, but probably needs about 5 more years.
And, after the German wines and before the Burgs, we had what I might call our “Rich Brown flight.” Frankly, with a night filled with wonderful wines, the dominant topic of conversation by the seven of us last night was about the 1974 and 1975 Mondavi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignons. This really is the golden age of California wines. How many wines from anywhere in world would taste so good at 50+ years. The 75 was rich and smooth. The 74 started out with a bit of an off flavor, but somehow after a few minutes that flavor turned into wonderful complexity that gave the 74 an extra dimension that the 75 did not have. I love these types of old California Cabernet. If I ever criticize California wines on this board, it is because I know so many wines from this era and how great they are and am sad that so many producers have taken the easy way out and produce ink that please people who want big, simple wines. Thankfully, there are still some producers who still make the real thing. These were the real thing and are wines everyone should try at some point.
Seriously though, that sounds like an incredible night! Would loved to have been there in person but am honored you even briefly thought of me while drinking those wines!
I Appreciate the notes, and here’s to one day sharing a few glasses with you gents
It was wonderful to see these notes while I was out & about in the world. Now when I’m back home, I wanted to add a few thoughts as well.
It was Howard’s idea to feature some older California jewels on the evening, and we were much the better table for it! His notes are already very evocative. The juxtaposition between the more ‘complex’ 74 and the exceptionally pure '75 was terrific for conversation. I have continued to enjoy thinking about the '75, in particular. There is something about just outstanding purity. I mentioned this with the Maine notes from last Fall, as well. Maybe it’s from my increasing turn into Burgundy & Champagne. Or maybe it also derives from my joy of Riesling (one of my very first wine loves).
Sitting with a red wine that’s been sitting in a friend’s cellar longer than I have been alive & comes out with a such joy & purity is so resonant. Different palates have different interpretations, so I don’t think it’s an all or nothing alignment. But there is such a musicality (to my own palate) when having a wine with a subtle, lacy bandwith. One of my very favorite red wines of what turned out to be a busy weekend. Howard teased me with carrying around a special Bourgogne Rouge also known for its purity, and hopefully we’ll also get a chance to taste that together on a future dinner. These wines of subtlety & special fruit are very much energizing to my whole being these days.
Howard summed up the Burgundies quite well. They were quite nice, but straining a bit in their hesitancy to release all their fruit and aromatics. The '13 RSV was especially puzzling to me, because the '12 last year with @MChang & Eileen was utterly gorgeous and wine of the month material. And the '13 Charmes-Chambertin from the personal label of Charles van Cannyt showed quite expressively up in NY a few weeks back. This particular bottle definitely wants 5-10 more years tho.
Very grateful for another fond table with very thought-provoking wines . I’m glad the 13 cdc was so lovely as it is one of my favorites to bring around at the moment. I enjoy drinking wines in an atmosphere where spouses and wine drinkers of multiple generations are present. They are conducive to conversations with wide-ranging topics & remind me of my earliest wine dinners of my teenage years with my father.