New Zealand Wine & Champagne Travelogue: The (Mis)Adventures of Marybeth and Warren

[Eric_White]

@Warren_Taranow

During this trip I kept trying to put into words what it was about New Zealand that affected us. By the end of our time there, we were so taken that it rose to the top of our list of places we might consider expatriating to. Only when we thought about the reality of living so far from the rest of the world did we hesitate. It is a remarkable place, but also very remote.

What struck me most as we traveled was how different New Zealand feels from almost anywhere else we have been. I kept searching for the right word. Pristine came to mind. Beautiful certainly fits. But the word I kept coming back to was unspoiled, especially on the South Island.

Again and again we found ourselves driving past vast stretches of coastline, enormous lakes, and sweeping landscapes that seemed untouched. There would be miles of beach with nothing but the two lane road we were on. No houses. No marinas. No rows of vacation homes.

The lakes made this even more striking. We passed half a dozen huge, stunning lakes that in the United States would almost certainly be ringed with neighborhoods.

Beyond the lakes, the natural variety of the landscape constantly awed. In a single day’s drive we might pass through wide plains dotted with farms and grazing sheep, follow along clear river and streams, pass a turquoise glacial lake, and then suddenly find ourselves looking out over a broad bay or the open ocean. Mountains seemed to rise everywhere, sometimes abruptly from farmland, sometimes plunging straight down toward the sea.

Part of that feeling comes from how much land has been preserved. New Zealand has a remarkably high concentration of national parks and protected areas, and unlike in the United States there are no entrance fees. These places feel accessible and genuinely protected at the same time.

Warren, I feel like you are talking for me here, I read this out loud to my wife (I’ve been to NZ twice, she has yet to make it), as it captures my feelings extremely well, particularly for something so difficult to articulate.

[Greg_Gardner]

+1. We visited in 2010 and Warren’s description above encapsulates our experience so well. Lots of great memories of driving a camper van (stick shift even!) on unsealed roads (as unpaved roads are called there). Very glad to hear it is unchanged.

[brodie_thomson]

@Warren_Taranow

During this trip I kept trying to put into words what it was about New Zealand that affected us. By the end of our time there, we were so taken that it rose to the top of our list of places we might consider expatriating to. Only when we thought about the reality of living so far from the rest of the world did we hesitate. It is a remarkable place, but also very remote.

What struck me most as we traveled was how different New Zealand feels from almost anywhere else we have been. I kept searching for the right word. Pristine came to mind. Beautiful certainly fits. But the word I kept coming back to was unspoiled, especially on the South Island.

Again and again we found ourselves driving past vast stretches of coastline, enormous lakes, and sweeping landscapes that seemed untouched. There would be miles of beach with nothing but the two lane road we were on. No houses. No marinas. No rows of vacation homes.

The lakes made this even more striking. We passed half a dozen huge, stunning lakes that in the United States would almost certainly be ringed with neighborhoods.

Hi Warren, this is definitely true for the South Island. Outside of Christchurch and Dunedin there is less than 3/4 of a million people for the rest of the South Island. It is very sparsely populated and as you observe a lot of wilderness.

The North Island has more than 75% of NZ’s population has more farm land is less mountainous and less native forest. It has its own beauty but the South Island is where the real action is IMO. The North is just more developed (but this is relative of course).

This is why we always recommend folks to spend most of their time in NZ in the South Island

[Warren_Taranow]

@brodie_thomson

Hi Warren, this is definitely true for the South Island. Outside of Christchurch and Dunedin there is less than 3/4 of a million people for the rest of the South Island. It is very sparsely populated and as you observe a lot of wilderness.

The North Island has more than 75% of NZ’s population has more farm land is less mountainous and less native forest. It has its own beauty but the South Island is where the real action is IMO. The North is just more developed (but this is relative of course).

This is why we always recommend folks to spend most of their time in NZ in the South Island

Yes, that was our experience as well. We spent most of our time on the South Island. That said, as you mentioned, the North Island certainly has its charms. Auckland is a beautiful city, and we loved everywhere you showed us. From our admittedly limited experience, the food and wine scene there is excellent.

Our week in Russell in the Bay of Islands was particularly special. It was one of those places where we felt we could happily stay much longer. In fact, it was the first time after a long trip that we found ourselves thinking we could extend our stay rather than feeling ready to head home.

There were so many other places we had hoped to visit as well, including the Kauri forests, Cape Reinga, and Wellington (and a visit with @Rauno_E_NZ )
Because we dropped out of our tour, we also missed a number of stops in the south: Te Anau, Oamaru, Dunedin, Preservation Inlet, Chalky Inlet, Dusky Sound, Acheron Passage, Doubtful Sound, Charles and Caswell Sounds, George Sound, and Milford Sound. Maybe another day.

[Mike_Grammer]

I echo your thoughts, especially the unspoiled and the carefree-but-helping vibes that I’ve never forgotten in the 40 or so years since I’ve been there. I really need to get back someday. I am reveling in the travelogue of close friends who are there now for the first time. Thank you, Warren, for sharing so much of your trip with us.

[Jenise_S]

Had a Burn Cottage pinot a month or two ago in Vancouver. Although it was redolent with black fruit as was yours, it was brawny and rustic. Without reading a more positive review like yours, I’d never go near this producer again. And this is why we read tasting notes!

[Reece_Warren]

Off to Gilt this Saturday.

[Warren_Taranow]

@Reece_Warren

Off to Gilt this Saturday.

Please tell Leah, the excellent sommelier, thank you from Brodie’s American friend for recommending the Bell Hill Chardonnay.

[Reece_Warren]

Will do Warren.

Glad you enjoyed New Zealand and got to taste some wines here.

Best,

Reece