Ryan organized a big tasting of this renowned property and ask me to write up the wines… so that’s what I’m doing. Many thanks to Ryan and the others who contributed bottles.
A shout-out to Leslie of Grippy Tannins, the είδος of what a wine store should be in a small prosperous educated American city. She provided charcuterie platters, general but knowledgeable commentary and a wonderful atmosphere.
But here are a few caveats:
As I’m retired, I didn’t take notes.
I’ve only had Musar twice before, both times very young (<10 years). I can’t claim to know anything about these wines.
Overall I liked the wines but honestly have to say that there was a lot of inconsistency and a few things I did not like.
Impressions more than tasting notes and no scores, but I’ll rank the wines at bit.
Listed in the order I tasted them.
I didn’t know Musar made white… apparently they make a few. I didn’t catch the exact blend on the 2022 entry level (I remember Chardonnay and Varmintino are in there). This was a reasonably pleasant but unremarkable white, saved from supermarket level by density and vigor, but not something I would buy.
Next (a big step!) up was the 2010 Chateau Musar out of magnum! This was a pale silver color with a green hint, looking more like 15 months than 15 years. The aromas were both leafy and flowery, the texture lean and muscular. It seemed very young and I would think it could develop breadth and subtlety with more bottle age, but…
The 2008 of the same wine had taken on a fairly deep gold color. The aromas showed signs of oxidation, but also signs of life. The palate was alive but dull, with some muted fruit. Not a wine I enjoyed, but…
The 2001 was even a little darker. The aromas were fresher and livelier, with a distinct floral note. The palate followed through with a touch of twisty, zingy acidity. Both very unusual and very good.
The 2010 and 2001 could not have been more different, but I enjoyed both.
The other two simply did not do it for me.
I believe the Rose was 2018; it tasted reasonably fresh for a 7 year old rose. I definitely would have liked it better in 2019 and it might have had something special to offer a year or two later. Perfectly drinkable but unremarkable.
1999 Chateau Musar red was what I tried first. I liked it but found that this and most of the other vintages had volatile acidity. A little bit distracts, more detracts. This fell on the detract side. There was a lot of fruit, but muted. The wine offered medium body and a nice texture. Without research, I’ve always heard that red Musar is mostly Cabernet and Cinsault. I could not really detect the Cabernet; the impression was more Mediterranean. I like this enough to enjoy a glass despite the VA, but next came:
1995 Chateau Musar – This was great wine. Others will hopefully post, but I think it was unanimous as WOTN. No noticeable VA, lighter in body and color than the previous, but with a beautiful panoply of fruits, mostly black, fine minerality, exceptionally subtle and finely layered texture, really harmonious, at a peak. I said no scores, but for me somewhere north of 95 and a total pleasure.
The 2004 was also excellent, just in a tough spot after the 1995. There was just a touch of VA here but lots of fruit in a broadly textured palate, almost as much primary as secondary, this would be a good bet to lay down for 5 or 10 years.
The 2001 disappointed, reminiscent of the 1999 with just too much VA to be a pleasure.
The 2000 was better, still a touch of VA but a slight bright spot between the 2001 and the 1999. A pleasant glass that is probably at or near peak.
The 1998 was along the same lines as the 2000, but I liked that just a little better. Again, a vaguely Mediterranean style of wine with some distinction; ready to drink and would be much better without the irritating touch of VA.
The 2021 Musar Jeune paralleled the entry-level white. It was pleasant, had no noticeable VA, seemed more international in style, like a modern New World version of a Syrah blend.
The 2020 Chateau Musar ‘Hochar’ was much better. Again, no VA to distract, a slightly more modern style than the Chateau Musar bottlings, but distinctive and balanced, albeit young. This is something I think would improve for another 5 years.
Ryan had decanted the 2012 earlier and I almost missed it! Which would have been worse than a shame. Much darker in color, this was the first wine that tasted of Cabernet to me. In fact, the black-currant and touch of tobacco aromas announced the grape before I took my first tip. This was the youngest of the reds (including the lower levels), showing almost primary freshness, some secondary subtlety just starting, a hint of pepper that made me think a little of Syrah, tightly wound, with lots of fine tannins a beautiful balance. This for me was clearly my #2 WOTN.
I am really grateful to have been invited to this tasting. I brought some Champagne and had a 1998 red Bordeaux lined up, but we had too much wine so I didn’t open it.
I liked most of the wines, honestly wished I had liked them more… but the top wines were as special as the reputation of this Estate. I would be happy to add a few bottles of ’95 and ’12 to my collection for very special occasions.
I said I would do notes, but I was hesitant both for my only moderate enthusiasm and especially my lack of knowledge. I hope those who contributed will not take these notes as churlish; having been itb for 40+ years, I can only call ‘em as I taste ‘em.
I also normally proofread and edit, but am on gofer duty and wanted to get this out before tonight’s big upcoming dinner.
Again, my thanks to all.
