Big D decided to add a little twist to Monday Table proceedings this month. Eric McCusker is a Burgundy enthusiast and guitarist/songwriter for Mondo Rock, and he was to be our guest and play a few acoustic tunes in between wine brackets. For those who don’t know Mondo Rock, they were huge here in the 1980’s. INXS supported them in the early days. ‘State of the Heart’ was the standout for me, such a beautiful acoustic version. Honourable mentions for ‘Come Said the Boy’ and ‘Chemistry’.
The wine theme was Corton-Charlemagne and there were some terrific wines. Sadly, there were a few dead soldiers ravaged by oxidation. A 2009 Roumier and 2001 Henri Boillot weren’t served as they were completely shot. A couple of others were on the cusp. The PYCM line-up all showed very well. A 2017 Chartron was right up there for wine of the night and the two DRC’s were splendid. A solitary red was served and it was a beauty. A 1930’s Yellow Chartreuse at the end of the evening was not required but we had a little schluck each anyway as Eric continued to entertain us.
2012 Jacques Selosse Millésimé: Deep, complex, grapey and vinous. So rich, powerful and layered. A gentle nuttiness to the flavour profile. Loaded with chalk and salt. Extremely long.
2012 Egly-Ouriet Champagne Grand Cru Brut Millésimé : Compact, tight and powerful. Explosive through the mid. Preserved lemon and light florals. Seriously built and chewy. Oozes saline minerality. Muscular yet incredibly classy.
2022 Domaine des Croix Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru : Just a touch advanced with some chamomile notes sneaking in. A little flat and showing a hint of spice and a sprinkling of salt.
2015 Domaine Castagnier Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru : White peach, lemon drops and pineapple. Quite tight in the mouth and good flesh through the mid. Opens up beautifully in the glass. Long and layered. A good showing.
2017 Domaine Jean Chartron Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru : A hint of mineral reduction. Great weight and power in the mouth. Some candied peach and spiced pear. Excellent chalky chew. It has drive and expansion and is super long. Outstanding!
1999 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru : Fully mature. Honeysuckle and truffle notes. Full and silky. Nice mineral line. Powerful and persistent.
2002 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru : Some bruised apple, honey and lemon. Advanced and golden. All of the wines detail has been planed off by oxygen.
2005 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru : Elegant, pure white peach on the nose and in the mouth. Some smoky mineral reduction. Unctuous and fleshy through the mid. Good line and build, Loaded with chalky dry extract. Drinking superbly.
2018 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru : A few of us had this pegged as the 2017. Great drive and energy. White peach fruit clings to a high tensile mineral spine. Compact, linear and deep. Fabulous mineral cut and a finish that powers on and on. Very close to wine of the night.
2017 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru : Very good but just over-shadowed by the ’18 tonight. A strict and straight wine with great posture. There’s sappy orchard fruits and a hint of pineapple. It is loaded with chalky dry extract at the back-end. Finishes with power and authority.
2009 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru : Reaching maturity, showing some truffled honey on the nose along with spiced pear and fennel. It is full and layered in the mouth and quite silky and voluminous. The wine still has line but structural elements are relaxed.
2022 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru : Fabulous depth and intensity. Deep and chewy. Crammed with sappy orchard fruits. Oozes saline minerality. Layered, rich and heady and so long.
2020 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Corton-Charlemagne, Grand Cru : A ripe and penetrating wine with a touch of the exotic. Sweet fruit at its heart. Silky, layered and beautifully balanced. Great presence and drive. Very long. A crowd pleaser.
2001 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Chambertin, Grand Cru : Musky notes tinge brambly fruits. There are loads of florals and some Asian spice. It is a silky, calm and even and the structural elements have all but folded into the wine. It is perfumed and ethereal and a joy to drink as it is somewhere very close to its apogee.
1927 Gould Campbell Porto Vintage: Some earthy development coupled with an assortment of dried fruits. There are Indian spices and some volatility punching florals up into the nostrils. Full and heady, complex and engaging. Great length.
1920 Gould Campbell Porto Vintage: Sweet raisins, licorice and chocolate. Rich and heady. Punchy florals. Layered, deep and long. Some cardamom spice and salted caramel.
