Well that strategy will work, right up until it fails.
Catastrophically.
Until then, however, let the Good Times roll.
Well, the vineyard was planted 45 years ago. I’m not sure what kind of yields they get, but I think most growers would call a 45 year old own-rooted vineyard a success. At some point, vines get replaced even in the absence of phylloxera, 45 years is at least late middle age for Chardonnay in California.
2016 Model Farm Chardonnay Santa Cruz Mountains- USA, California, San Francisco Bay, Santa Cruz Mountains (4/21/2018)
I remember tasting the Syrahs with Joanna last year on our stop to see Jamie Kutch. Joanna, who pairs with Jamie to produce all of his Kutch wines, was there on that day and it was a pleasure to meet her. I also believe that Joanna is married to Sean (who is the assistant winemaker to Jeff Brinkman at Rhys) and together Joanna and Sean craft the Model Farm wines. Having recently bought 3 of the new Chards, and further seeing a few TNs emerge from people who I respect, I figured I’d give one of my bottles a go. The label says 12.5% ABV and 2 barrels made. Opened about an hour ago, added a light chill, and then poured off for several ounces for this TN. Lots of things going on here. A mix of pear and golden apple form the core of the wine, along with a light butterscotch. As the wine continues to unfold, another layer of flavor in lemon curd and taut green apple. As it finishes, then saline and tangerine, all being held up by lemon peel. Finally, I like the texture here too, as it shows a touch of polish and creaminess, but only lightly enough to round off the acidity and pure fruit. This is a good first effort from Joanna and Sean.
Excellent, Counselor. I just poured off another few ounces from the bottle we opened last night and it’s drinking bright, lightly creamy and showing that cool lemon and tangerine note from last night. This is a terrific fit for your palate.
Looks can be deceiving, Russ, especially when the counselor is involved.
Chris, I wouldn’t be too unhappy about owning any of what I would imagine is a total 500-bottle allotment for the entire production
And yes, Will—like Frank, I pay attention when I see you post a note. Excited! I will almost certainly pair it with one of Jamie’s 14s when I open it, just for some fun.
I feel the urge to pop another bottle just to check if my memory of this wine is right. I felt that it had some special qualities we rarely see in Chards at this price point.
OK, opened it side-by-side with Jamie’s 14 Chard. Both given same treatment, very slightly chilled, no pre-ox, enjoyed over a couple hours. It is quite interesting just how different they are from each other. the Kutch 14 is still so infused with energy and laser-focused. The aromatics…the only thing I’ve sniffed that’s similar is PYCM or Leflaive. And it is super-tight. Joanna’s and Sean’s is already a rounder and more broad wine, but still with plenty of salinity, minerality and a slight bitter fruit ending. As it evolved some in the glass, it looks to have a decent lifespan. Glad I have more of these to check on them from time to time.