Some of you may recall, that by his generous donation of time and great good fortune, dad and I were able to squeeze in a lunch with Francois in Paris 3 years ago. Well, we went one better this time, with a dinner that lasted about 4.5 hours. Our venue was once again the Michelin 1-star (Francois will correct me if my info is out-of-date) Restaurant Laurent. Once again, the food was divine and the service spectacular. I am so happy that my friends Lynn and Jon, who will be joining dad and I for the Bordeaux portion of the tour, were able to join us and meet Francois. I explained to them later that there was just no way to describe to what an evening with him would be like, and that it really was like something out of Ali Baba and the 1001 Arabian Nights. As we chatted vivaciously about wine, food, music, family, Francois’ wonderful house in the south of France and environmental and political issues, we accompanied that with an evening of a lifetime, true as that. The warmth and camaraderie among all of us was, if possible, better than the food and better than the wines. And wait till you read…
With fresh green pea soup, cockles in veloute glace
2002 Pol Roger
We would have been very happy trying just what Francois had brought that evening, but he wasn’t, so off he goes and orders this from the list. Bien merci! There’s a fun white pepper and very light fresh herbs side to the pretty lemon presentation. Dans la bouche, it’s right in the wheelhouse, showing gorgeous feel, with just a dash of sweetness to complement the apple and lemon and very light ginger. Everything in such good balance. Very nice.
2008 Blain-Gagnard Criots-Batard Montrachet
My WOTY for 2011, I think, I had worried that I hadn’t had the chance to slow-ox this. I worried for nothing. Jon’s good–he caught crème brulee right off the bat, and that is there, but overlaid by the noisette/hazelnut that Francois and I both catch on the bouquet, along with minerality. Wow. This is expressive as heck, even more than expected. hazelnut through a medley of accents of apple, pear and lemon, and later, I would even venture to say a small touch of cured leather. Ah, but wait. 2 hours in, it absolutely explodes with peach flavour, crushing everything–food and wine–in its path. And later still, some matchstick comes whizzing through the nuzzie, but the palate remains pure finesse, almost like drinking pure apple and pear frangipane. Francois and I engaged in a sotto voce discussion about whether we like Criots more than straight Batard—we both do, admiring the purity and finesse that Criots can bring. This is top-end stuff and deserves to be in the WOTY race again. My #2, but it was very, very close.
With lobster, gnocchi (which Lynn swooned over, and she KNOWS from gnocchi), jus coraille and mousserons and with morels in vin jaune sauce.
1955 Chateau L’Evangile
This was Francois’ first contribution. He “warns” us of torrefaction and, indeed, there’s a coffee undertone to the dark, macerated plum and some lingering tobacco. But it is only at the start. And I turn to Francois and I say to him—you know what this makes me think of? Beaujolais—Gamay, but with so much more underpinning it. this is lovely and sublime, you see, an almost transparent lightness of being with berry and bright plum, yet lots of backing and sophistication. Even more fascinating, it attenuates a little with time and then, bam, back it comes with a second wind. For purity and an abundance of gentility of soul, this wine has it in spades, and it matched with my salmon (I’m allergic to lobster) and later my pigeon as well. Wonderful showing.
We won’t talk much about a 1949 Vosne Romanee Clos du Roy from Leroy et Cie which, among other things, was sadly corked.
1988 Bouree Clos de Vougeots
Both Francois and I have had happy experiences with this house, but this isn’t necessarily one of them. The fill was a little low, but still, with it only being a 1988 I wasn’t too worried. It does start out tight, eventually giving some mushroom, blackberry and possibly some baked baking spices. It does have zip on the palate, and later develops a deep cherry and terrific cinnamon pinch to the nose, but I remark to Francois that it resembles more a Savigny than a Clos. Neither of us end up convinced by this wine. Good, but no more.
With smoked pigeon in slightly sweet sauce and seasonal veggies. (I love how they do pigeon here, so good)
1929 L.A. Montoy Corton Clos du Roy
Let’s remember, boys and girls, this wine is EIGHTY-FIVE years old. I dare you to guess that blind, and that includes looking at it, as it pours a lovely deep dark magenta/purple colour. Francois opened this at 5:30, we served it at about 8:30 and we were still sipping on it at about 11 pm. Initially, slight molasses sidebar and good soy component to the nose. Oh—that’s really beautiful. Soy again, but surrounds and infuses itself with meat and the richest black forest cake. And, like the 1961 Naigeons Pommard that I still remember from 3 years ago, this got FRESHER as the night went on. Bales of character and sprightly as anything, this is bewitching stuff, talking long after you’d expect, and a splendid chocolate note late. WOTN by a hair, certainly in the WOTY discussion, and probably close to a 95. A fantastic experience, sooo grateful.
2010 Antonin Guyon Corton Clos du Roy
Once I found out Francois was bringing the Montoy, I wanted all of us to have the chance to look at the vineyard with 80 years of difference. On its own some months ago, this impressed me greatly. In tonight’s company, it shows itself for the infant it is. Very kinetic right now, but plenty of good elements in there. Tart, structure, lots of red raspberry and wild strawberry fruit. Some underlying meaty tones for me too. While it does show wonderfully just what advantage time gives to these wines, I still will stand in mild disagreement to Francois here, where he doesn’t feel it will have an extra gear, and I do think it will get there…in time…
With assorted cheeses (including THE best comte I’ve ever had) and an out-of-this-world lemon soufflé
1998 Kracher #11 Welschriesling ZDS TBA
I was laughing before I got here, as I paged through my notes and realized I’d brought the exact same wine the last time we met. Ah, well, always good to check in on it, right? If anything, the 3 years has intensified the tea, apricot and honey notes we all find on the nose and especially on the tongue. It writhes in your mouth with the apricot, and super-thick yet still full of character. Soup-spoon thick, guys, and be careful what you pair it with (you may just want to have it alone), but go-ood. There was a little left, we’ll see what a day does to that.
2001 Chateau Climens
Out of a halfsie, I brought this too, but wasn’t sure whether I was allowed to open it in advance. Obviously, I wish that would have been possible, because more or less popped and poured, this just can’t get there, it’s so tightly wound. I will say though, that in the aroma, it has some of what that magical D’Yquem had—it smells of everything. Honey, flowers, lime, ginger, vanilla, light pineapple…I could go on…the palate has promise of impeccable balance and levels and layers to match that nose…but with 2 more days of full aeration. Alas. It did go particularly well with the soufflé, though, and also matched nicely enough with the Roquefort, promising again good things to come.
This is one of those nights when you’re sprinkled with magic dust. I hope it won’t be 3 years before we cross paths again, but I am sure that cross paths we will. It was a special night we’re all going to remember.
Salud,
Mike
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