DINNER AT POST HOTEL WITH JOHN, DANI AND FRIENDS, AUGUST 24, 2013
Perhaps the highlight of my wine week was my virgin dinner at The Post Hotel Dining room, which some have called the “Bern’s of the North”. To cement the enticement to go, my very good friends, who I see much too seldom, John and Danielle Chayka from Kelowna, made the 5 hour trip with their friends Stefan and Corne in order to help spread the wealth. And spread they did. My only regret is that Deb was unable to join us but she highly recommended the bison fillet. This I had, and it was very good (and the black lentil soup with smoked ham was awesome), but not as good as Dani’s beef stroganoff (I was also wise enough to leave room for, and order, the dessert degustation plate which was super-yum). There are very few people that I candidly wished lived closer to me. These two are two of those people. What’s more, this was another case of finding two additional great people to meet and talk to. It turns out Corne is an endurance rider. She and Deb, who owns 4 Arabians, will be in touch!
John and Stefan went all out, and I can’t thank them enough for helping to make a signature and memorable first experience for me.
2007 F.X. Pichler Loibner Berg Gruner Veltliner
I was definitely in the mood to order this off the menu, and doubly tickled to hear that Stefan and Corne had never tried one. I have one myself and it was a good chance to check in on it. Certainly, this had the Gruner qualities of (for me), white pepper, herbs, strict unripe apple—perhaps tinged with grapefruit—and light mustard brushing, while le gout adds a real salinity. It was more open than I would have given it credit for, but I was quite surprised to find that, as the night went on, it got quite a bit sweeter too, with more apple beginning to show. I’m not sure what to make of that, but I liked the wine when first opened and sipped and for the first hour or so, not as much after that. But it is much more the thing than the Prager 03 tried a couple nights ago.
2010 Ramonet Montrachet
Well, this sure wasn’t me, and I had no idea this was coming. John’s never had one of these (and I certainly haven’t either) and this is what he wanted. We ended up explaining to Stefan that this, and the red wines, were signature reasons and examples of why patience over the course of a night is needed. I am incredibly grateful to have had the opportunity to try this.
This, everyone, is a heck of a wine. At first, the bouquet really snaps at you with decided minerality, fresh squeezed lemon galore, some sea air even and possibly a dash of sage. And the first taste has laser-like precision that puts to shame all but perhaps Raveneau Chablis. But the marvel is that this is just Act One. Slowly, over 30-minute intervals, matchstick and toffee-covered ginger begin to poke their head out of the glass for a look-see. Slowly, over 30-minute intervals, the palate begins to expand until, at about the 2.5 hour mark, there is the purest expression of fresh pineapple with coconut milk, all bordered by nut paste and continued bracing acidity and minerality. The last tastes, with some pear and butterscotch being added, and possibly some star anise on the nose, provide the picture, only, of the skyscraper this wine will be. It is still being built, but this is the first dry white wine that I’ve tasted where I believe perfection is attainable. It also will, if it doesn’t suffer the premox curse, be a wine that, literally, will be able to last 100 years. Undeveloped as it is, this is a strong, strong candidate for WOTY and if you pressed me for a score, 97+ wouldn’t be out of line. It is the stuff wet dreams are made of.
2001 Rousseau Chambertin
All the more when, by the end of the night, the Ramonet was distancing itself from this wine as WOTN. And this wine didn’t suck. John hasn’t been to burgundy yet (this was actually Stefan’s selection), but the bouquet, I told him, besides having near-perfect presentation of fresh strawberry jam, light cocoa, chestnut and sweet currant, also has something ethereal that I can only describe as “the hillsides of burgundy”. You want terroir? This took me right back to the region I visited over 2 years ago. that’s a sense of place, boy. While we both agree this has come some way from my last taste of this with John (which was, I think, about 5 years ago), I had initially called for another 5 years before the drinking window opened up. I revised that to 10 years by the end of the night. The palate is long and structured, with plenty of acidity and crunchy currant and raspberry fruit. But it’s still filling itself out. And although after 3 hours it got closer to having more heft (and of course you don’t want too much of that), it still became obvious that it remains a very slightly ornery infant to taste. Right now, a real tease because of that incredible bouquet, and it’s worth opening for that, but if you have the patience, let a decade’s worth of sleep help these out. Still outstanding, easily WOTN on any other given night.
1996 Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia
I was interested enough, certainly, while believing that toddlercide was being committed. So indeed proved to be the case. To sniff, all of what you want is there, first very pure rosewater/rosehips, glints of leather and strawberries. Later, a tarry aspect does infiltrate and deepen the bouquet. Dans la bouche, the acids enter very aggressively indeed, and unbridled raspberries and wild strawberries march across the tongue. The acid really lashes at your cheeks and although some additional berry and very light red licorice flavours show up, it never loses its current lack of charm. That’s not to say it’s bad. Not at all. There are great bones and structure here, and the components for excellent wine. In 20 years.
This was a great finishing touch to a marvelous week of wine, food and fun for me. I can only hope to get to see these people again soon!
Maluhia,
Mike