First encounter with Melvin was in Lyon at L’Âme Soeur. I think Melvin and I both agree that this is a great address for Berserkers in Lyon. It doesn’t seat a lot of people so do reserve. The food was good, the wine list is good with very good prices and the service was absolutely lovely.
The price on the Ramonet made it a pick and it was expected to be the star of the show. We landed on the Bienvenues-Bâtard because I thought my very limited experience with Ramonet whites did include the 2012 vintage of this. But reading at my past notes as I’m writing this, I now realize that the 2012 I had was Domaine Ramonet and not JC. Age is definitely gnawing at my memory…
Jean-Claude Ramonet Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet 2015
On first pour, I was scared this would be an underwhelming effort. The nose was very shy (with the minty top note being the only thing of notice) and the palate wasn’t giving much either. As we came back to it later in the meal, the oak took over and brought a dominant vanilla note but the palate was finally opening up with some richness (peaches and cream). Time continued its magic and it finally fully came into its own. Wow. The mint came back on the nose, the vanilla being a distant supporting cast member and the fruit took its place. Concentrated, full, rich, layered without ever being heavy. The finish is uplifting with spices and minerality but with deceptively good length. Again, wow. If I had more of this, there is no way I would keep my fat fingers away from it.
Domaine Duroché Gevrey-Chambertin Champ 2017
Melvin’s pick as I had never had a Duroché. Before diving in Melvin pointed out that 2017 Duroché were particularly balanced and elegant. Based on this one, the man is right. This is just a beautiful Côte-de-Nuits drinking like it should. Red and dark berries, spices with the acidity being perfectly on point for the fruit profile on the palate. Tannins are not noticeable but they provide the necessary structure to achieve balance. Good length on this as well. Lovely wine.
Gonon Saint-Joseph 2021
Open opening, I thought the nose was dominated by florals (violets) and blue and black fruits. With time, this added some brine and crushed olives. No meatiness to this though, it really is the fruit that dominates here. Pure fruit, lovely acidity and somewhat soft tannins. It works to make this very pleasurable to drink on fruit and freshness but shouldn’t be paired with something too assertive food-wise. Lovely bottle.
Three bottles could have done it but the conversation was great at the table and with the restaurant staff so Melvin pulled out bottles from his magic pockets. I’m amazed at how Melvin always has amazing bottles of wine somewhere on his person (in his car, in his luggage)! I don’t know how he does it but I’m pretty sure black magic is involved.
Lamy-Caillat Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Champs Gains 2019
Melvin had brought this over to compare against the Ramonet. He was telling me that Lamy-Caillat has been known for getting a somewhat similar minty signature on his whites. This was a very good bottle of wine. It was already open for business when poured (had been uncorked earlier in the day) and didn’t need time to get going. I think (I know) it suffered from being served next to the Ramonet but Melvin’s experiment did indeed show that the Lamy-Caillat also exhibited that minty note to some extent. Good concentration on this so the fruit is able to match the acidity/minerality combo (plenty of tension here). Good wine.
Georges Mugneret-Gibourg Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots 2017
I was super excited when Melvin pulled this out of his bag of tricks. This was just wide open and singing from the get go. The nose on this was mesmerizing: ripe fresh red berries, spices all over the place, some damp earth seriousness and crushed stones as well. The palate was whole and integrated with the fine tannins adding chewiness to the texture and a long finish. Beautiful and I would drink this all day.
The odd man out:
Domaine Labet Chardonnay En Chalasse
I failed to note the vintage on this one. Maybe @melvinyeo can help?
Jura wine, Jura profile, Jura feeling. I like it. Citrus fruit hitting the gums like a freight train, crunchy red apple, maybe even a slight stink/funk from fallen apples and hay. Ripe citrus on the palate but the acidity dominates with a slightly saline finish. It felt a little out of place in the lineup but there was still joy in having this. The palate cleanser of the evening 
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The kind staff at the restaurant let us close the evening with a Chartreuse and off I went, sad to leave wonderful people behind but looking forward to reuniting with Melvin in Champagne. It was a great evening. And again, 
to Melvin for his kindness and generosity.