Ok, not to please Eric Texier (who doesn´t like wine-„tastings“ but prefers drinking with dinner) – but simply because my wife and I have been invited to a nice evening in Vienna by a dear friend and Burgundy lover … ok, we went with pleasure … and brought some bottles* with us, too. With another couple and the hosts wife we were six people all together.
5.15 p.m.
- 2005 Lilbert-Fils Champagne, Cramant: nice, but not special, and a bit young
- 2009 Meursault Genevrieres 1er Cru, Michel Bouzerau: bright, very typical Meursault, excellent (89+p)
- 2009 Bienvenue-Batard-Montrachet, Carillon (edited): deeper, more intense, longer, but very youthful, great potential (for 94+p)
- 1985 Meursault-Charmes 1er Cru, Cuvée Albert-Grivault, Hospice de Beaune:* this IS really mature white Burgundy, golden-yellow, multi-dimensional, buttery, minerally, flowery, spicy, perfect balance, vital, mouthfilling and long, (95p) – talking about premox seems ridiculous when tasting such a wine!
Quiche Loraine and Quiche with herbs, vegetables and vineyard snails: very fine!
Red:
- 1988 Gevrey-Chambertin „Cazetiers“ 1er Cru, Philippe Leclerc* (opened for slow-oxy 10 (!) h in advance): right after opening in the morning not much fruit, but tannins and oak. In the evening the fruit has unfolded magnificently, red and dark berries, full ruby colour, hints of leather and herbs, but still very structured with a tannic bite and astringency, will still improve, potential for 91-92p, but only in another 5 to 12 years.
NOW we are talking:
- 1979 La Grande Rue (still Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru), Lamarche: full orange ruby, this is fine, velvet and fresh, sweet mature fruit, only with a slight hint of dryness in the finish, medium long, but very satisfying, drink now, 91p
- 1964 Mazis-Chambertin, Jean de Villedieu:* very bricky colour, but deep and saturated, very sweet and intense palate impression, meaty with lots of dried fruits, underwood, leather … and a nice tannic bite, 95p
Game ragout with napkin dumplings and cranberries, really excellent.
- 1976 Clos de Tart, Mommessin: very saturated ruby colour with transparent rim, lots of kirsch and other dark red fruits, minerally, almost Syrah-like, but balanced if really masculine and chewy, the site and vintage are adding up, impressive, long, slightly lacking in elegance, 92p
- 1945 Bonnes-Mares, Grivelet: full mature brown-red colour, forthcoming nose of warm and sweet fruit, herbs, tobacco and rotten wood, a treat, mouthfilling sweet and lush palate, no hard edges, layers of very complex fruit with long finish, 97p
- 1964 Musigny, Amsler-Lecouvreur: quite full and medium-dark colour, fragrant and complex, soft and silky on the palate, sweet, very classy and long, 93p
- 1972 La Tâche, DRC: slightly brighter, more masculine, full, intense, perceptible acidity, deep and complex, chewy, great ´72, 94p
Fine selection of cheese
- 1983 Traminer Auslese, Klöch (Styria), Weinbau Rudolf Schuster: golden, medium sweet, nice, but not on the level of the reds
Pana Cotta with raspberries
Finish: midnight
Conclusion: despite the fact that only one red wine was younger than 32 years (and in fact still too young), not one wine was over the hill, or even over apogee, a proof for the the longivity of red Burgundies. Sure it was mostly Grand Cru level – and all botttles were in fine condition.
Impossible for me to gain so much pleasure from young fruity primary wines … a real treat