Malconsorts and others, and a dry run at Apiary

Hooked up with Craig Haserot from Sojourn Cellars and his wife Ellen. Craig invited myself and a co-worker, along with his buds David Sugarman and Jeff Fillippi. Craig and I banter all the time about “undervalued” Burgundy, and Malconsorts when it’s on, it’s tough to beat for the money (and being next to La Tache, it ain’t that tough!)

We checked out Apiary, which luckily does corkage free Mondays. I was drawn in by my friend Brett Feore, who reached out to me a couple of weeks ago and mentioned he was there. The chef is Scott Bryan, formerly of Veritas, and I was shocked when I saw the menu. SUPER reasonable, and ultra tasty. I got a 3" bone-in Berkshire pork chop for $25. Hard to shake a stick at that in NYC. We kind of did family style with the food, ordering loads of stuff to share with the table. Awesome idea, as we had killer risotto, sweetbreads, skate and a few other nibbles.

On to the wines…
Open up with 89 Jadot Meursault Perrieres. Coming off an awkward experience with the 04 Jadot Batard, I didn’t really know what to expect. At first is was closed, but started putting out great vanilla and smoke notes, along with pear, quince, fig and baked apple. Really tasty, awesome texture with good underlying acid. Shockingly, no rush to drink this. 93+

Next was an odd bottle of 96 Billaud Simon Chablis Les Clos. Didn’t know what to make of this. Some really smokey, oaky notes on the nose with a really heavy handed texture (a la Cali Chard). This was not my cup of tea at all. The wine lacked good focus and verve. It wasn’t oxy, but had a lot of the character that goes along with it (basically, minus the sherry). Too odd to rate.

On to the super star of the evening, 88 Domaine Leflaive Batard. Sweet freaking jesus this is good stuff. Focused, bright, perfectly balanced, and had just the right amount of oily texture. Fresh picked apple, pear, mineral, lemon, white tea, saline and kerosene were all melded together really nicely. Best Chardonay I have ever had. 99 points.

A rather reserved bottle of 02 Baumard Clos Papillon was up next. It’s closed, but fresh and crisp and would have been really nice with some fatty oysters. Sadly, those weren’t on the menu. Too young to properly rate.

47 Barolo? Borgogno is generally not a fave of mine, but this was a great bottle. The consensus was this was topped off (the cork didn’t look 62 years old either), as the fruit was some what fresh, and had some really nice stink to go with it. Had some barnyard, trash, old grass and rose notes, odd combo indeed. The palate had fair texture, with really nice acidity. Was awesome with the risotto. 91 points

On to the VRs…88 Lamarche. Nice start, and really restored my confidence in 88 Reds. (I have had a bad run lately) Cranberry, cherry, raspberry and a hint of red plum mix well with brown spices and a hint of saddle leather. Great start. 92 Points

96 Cathiard was the preferred of the two 96s, and the Dominique Laurent was simply too light. Neither wine knocked me out, but showed good vineyard character, and very charming read fruits. Given the vintages, vineyard and producers, I expected more. I would have rated them 90 and 87 respectively. In a twist of fate, wine of the flight was the 03 Cathiard This had a ton going on: Darker, richer fruits, great texture and mouth feel, along with surprising amounts of secondary character and very good length on the finish. Not sure how long this will last, but feel free to dabble. It’s in a good spot. 92 points.

The 95 Hudelot Noellat was an oddity. Their wines are super elegant, and this really showed that. It did improve as the night went on, but didn’t have the texture of many of the other wines. Having said that, it was like a better version of the 96 DL. 90 Points

The show stopper in the Malconsorts flight was the 95 Thomas Moillard. WOW! Inky, fat, and rich, but with acid to rope it all together. 30+ second finish. The pork chop had a spicy component to it, and this was able to take it down a notch. Not a producer I have been exposed to before, but it’s got my attention now. 94+ points.

Awesome company too, was really a great group for this line up. Lots of killer insight and discussion.

you had a bad run of 88s man? that is running bad as nearly every 1988 bottle from Burg and Bordeaux i have enjoyed. Thomas Moillard is a new name for me too - what do you know about him now?

Thomas-Moillard had the “La Tache” plot of Malconsorts that went to Montille’s Christiane bottling, so you’d figure it ought to be good. I’ve only had the 2000 and 1983 and both were in the OK-but-not-great category, but it’s cool to hear that one of them showed what it can do.

Great notes Ian-your impression of the Lamarche would seem to substantiate claims that the revival at Lamarche is a recent phenomenon are nonsense, which is certainly my experience too. I’ve had quite a few Thomas-Moillard wines, real old-fashioned negociant stuff which seem pretty unexciting when young but can please remarkably with age.


Thanks for the notes, Apiary is still on my long list of places to go…

I met Craig on Monday at the MS tasting. We had never met. I went over to his table, and made fun of him and his wines for a minute. Told him how he should lower his prices further. How the guy in front of me hated the wines. Mentioned how Gary V sold all of the wine for him etc etc…Then I gave him my business card as I was about to walk away…He looked back at me and yelled, “POSNER, YOU’RE POSNER…I should have known!”

Funny guy, he sold me WL’s allocation in the end…

Ian, I didn’t know you were friends with Brett. Sounds like a great night.

Dan, let’s see if we can arrange a dinner to get you there. I haven’t been in a few weeks and miss it. Plus I haven’t seen you in forever.

Sounds good, Paul…Tuesdays are best for me, Wednesdays are worst…anything in between, I can work with…

Glenn, I don’t know what it is, but the last 8 or so red Burgs I have had from 88 were either passed, awkward, or just not interesting. Bordeaux, not the same case though. The 88 HB I had recently was eye opening.

I have had nothing but super experiences with Lamarche, but this was my first pre-96. Even a 97 Echezeaux was fantastic (thank you Winebid).

I know practically nothing about Thomas-Moillard, and there is very little press to advise on what are “safer” purchases. Hoping any T-M fans can sound off on the better bottlings and vintages. Only thing I really know is that the wines are generally old school.

Keith, Do you know what year Montille took over that plot? I love the Montille wines, and Etienne is a great guy.

Paul, didn’t know you knew Brett! HA!

As I mentioned, the do corkage free on Mondays, and we can do up to 8 at a table. If Posner can swing that, I’m in too! You can easily get out of there for $50 a head before tip.

2005 was the first vintage for the Montille (and a stunning wine). There are two bottlings, a regular Malconsorts and the Christiane which is from the plot spooned by La Tache proper.

I knew the rest, just not when they took it over. The 2005 has gotten completely stupid in the secondary market, and the importer just dropped the price on the 2006 by about 20%. Funny how that works headbang

Pretty nifty price you guys have on the '06… tempted to get a bottle or two to irrationally lower my average cost [cry.gif] Unfortunately the '06 wasn’t nearly as good as the '05… I haven’t even seen any secondary market prices on the '05 to evaluate their stupidity. I only got to try it by lucking into it on a restaurant wine list.

Dan, like Ian said, Monday is the only no corkage night. Let me know if you can swing it.

I saw the 05 Malconsorts (NOT the Christianne) for $450 a bottle about 6 months ago. [suicide.gif]

Mind you, that was retail. I saw some on winebid about 2 months ago, and the last I saw it was in the high 2s on Sunday night, and that was also the regular Malconsorts. Not sure where it closed at though.

Oh, sorry, I just skip over what Ian says…I can make a Monday work…


I will bring 90 Vogue then [wink.gif]

Thank you, Ian, I will bring a mag of Sierra Carche for comparison…

Indeed it was a great night of wines and company … love Malconsorts and Montille excluded it is usually a comparitive bargain in the higher end 1er space of Burgland.

That Moillard was truly something special … this is a producer that I have had a decent number of good experiences with. I think I enjoyed the Laurent & HN more than you did.

The 47 Borgorgno was a great drink … but boy was the 88 Leflaive great … Criag and I (and our SO’s) drank the 2004 on the Saturday before and it was mighty fine but this wine was easily the best Chard I have had all year maybe ever.

Overall 88 has always been a good play for me with few disapointments. Sounds like you just had a bad run.

If you’re all planning to rough up Posner some upcoming Monday @ Apiary I want in. LMK


I have instructed Paul to ensure we pick a night when you are busy.

FYI, had 1937 Borgogno about 6 months ago…great drink.