Now here’s the final part of our event:
5th Flight (Haut Brion decanted for > 6 h; Margaux > 12 h).
1986 Chateau Margaux
well, even more than 12 h swimming in a magnum-decanter could not convince the Margaux to leave its snail house; it is no secret that CM is what I love most but I’m beginning to become a “desperate housewife” with this inapproachable blockbuster; I read from a wine aficionado about a pressure ventilation of a half bottle using pure oxygen and I’m willing now to follow that drastic mode of action; coming back to the beloved bottle, restrictive notes of burgundian underbrush, some leather and tobacco in the nose but no fruit; on the palate this is a truly heavyweight champ, muscles everywhere, brute power and energy; this must be originated directly in the center of Pauillac or somewhere in a powerhouse garage, but where the hell is Margaux? This wine has the finesse, elegance and charm of a bulldozer. I wonder if this will ever come around [90+, for mercy reasons].
1986 Chateau Haut Brion
oh my goodness, now this compensates for the Margaux pain! Honestly it made me soo very happy that I quoted 98 points just for being identifiable as a fine, sappy BDX; an open nose with notes of tar, smoke, cigar box as well as red and black berries; medium+ weight on the palate, very concentrated, still some adstringency left; deep, glorious structure with fleshy bones; this is a true giant with its best period still to come; I got the impression that the HB showed a backward tendency with time in the glass. [96+].
5th Flight (Dominus decanted for > 6 h; Unico > 12 h).
1994 Vega Sicilia Unico
the Unico used the decanting time to develop in a great way! The smell of a lot of sappy blueberries (bramble, bilberries, some black currant) in the bouquet and no trace of that vanilla-toast-marmalade-wood-alc melange of many high decorated Spanish wines; on the palate it was very comparable to the 2001 Serpico in concentration and power; already in fine balance this wine will benefit from another 10+ years cellar time. [96+]
1994 Dominus
this flight was the absolute highlight of the evening, although the Dominus started with a quite angular note of green paprika; this lasted a few seconds, then a divine bouquet developed with fresh notes of mint and herbs, sappy cranberries and elder; on the palate it was a battle of titans between the Dominus and the Unico; for my taste, the Dominus is also years apart from maturity but accessible enough to leave a very deep and satisfying impression. The Dominus was already the 3rd wine I quoted 96+ and to the best of my experience all three of them own the skill and the perfection to reach the highest hights.
6th Flight (both decanted for > 8 h).
1990 Chateau L’Evangile
now Bob was perplexed about the Evangile, I’m perplexed about his rating; if this will lead to reduced quotation of the wine I swear I will buy till bust or blackout. This is really what we call here “very great cinema”! I stopped making notes and concentrated 115% on this glorious wine. Steps away from maturity, in divine balance, so sweet and warm and sappy and deep and concentrated and…… [97].
1990 Chateau Pichon Longueville Baron
no doubt, lactic notes are per se nothing bad but coming up late night in the glass very close to the 1990 Evangile? I was NOT amused; yoghurt around midnight? I must have been in the wrong fairytale; this wine was ok, but nothing for me at this “advanced” stage. [?]
Closing Flight (both decanted for > 8 h).
1997 Ridge Monte Bello
though in very good shape it was a hard slice of bread to dance on stage right after Unico, Dominus and Evangile. In the nose some chocolate, dark fruit, a slight coffee note and all this packed together in an eucalyptic freshness; very young and promising on the palate, fine balance, fleshy bones; green tea in the mid palate and black berries; the wine required attention and he received it though we all were close to the end of concentration; I wish I had a case cellared. [94+]
1997 Ornellaia
the Ornellaia performed much better than expected; some of group reported after disclosure of the flight about tired and powerpoor bottles of this wine; this bottle did not reach the class of the Monte Bello but was very close; notes of black currant, plums, leather and cedar in the attractive nose; a good midweight on the palate, fine balance, good structure and length; there was absolutely nothing to complain about and I like the fact to have some more bottles in the cellar. [93]
Hope not to have crucified the English language too much…
Dieter