Maggie Harrison’s War on Wine

She’s a very compelling character in person, and her dynamism really comes through. I joined their list blind when she first left SQN just to see what it was all about. I’ve stayed on, but don’t buy much. During the pandemic we did a “remote blending” project with them where they sent us a number of barrel samples and some measuring equipment, and there was a little blending contest where they tasted the blends we sent back blind. It was a very cool idea, and unique as far as I know. Great way to spend some time when we were homebound.

I do enjoy the AT wines (particularly the whites), but given their price and style, not that often. While the Times piece is undoubtedly overwrought, her vision and willingness to do her own thing is refreshing in an industry that certainly seems to encourage (or unintentionally achieve) a lot of herding.

Last thing that they do that is also fascinating is that the AT “wine club,” called the Collective, consists exclusively of other makers’ wines, much like the tasting room. I think that is pretty cool, and while it may not necessarily be a great value in the bottle by bottle pricing sense (I haven’t parsed it), it brings a lot of things into my cellar that I would never think of buying, or even have access to. And I have great faith that the selections were made thoughtfully and for a reason.

Anyway, YMMV with Maggie and certainly with the wines she makes, but I think it’s pretty great that she’s out there.

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I’ve met her twice when she’s come to Sweden and I’ve always enjoyed the interactions with her. Super friendly and knowledgeable, and very helpful as well. Fedex:ed over three bottles of the ‘05 Syrah to Sweden when I enquired about how to purchase. Loved the Syrah ever since, and they seem immortal. Opened my lone Blue Label Syrah ‘04 at an SQN tasting, including EBAs and it more than held its own.
The hassle of getting wines purchased of US lists to Sweden has precluded me from buying since the 08s, but have a few left includint mags of blue label and a blue label 05.

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I’ve tasted there twice and I truly enjoy the wines for how unique they are despite the fact that I generally prefer to drink Burgundy.

The author completely overstates Maggie’s opinion on terroir. Maggie truly loves Burgundy, and in fact celebrates it when you taste there. Why else would she pour Dauvissat, Roumier, Mugnier and Fourrier? She just believes that our vineyards are too young and that we don’t know enough about them to always warrant single vineyard blends at this early stage for the new world. Blind blending is a part of that learning process, and in another 200 years we will know a lot more about the best parcels of land in Oregon. It’s a refreshing take honestly, and she keeps detailed notes during these sessions to document what her parcels provide. She just removes the bias by concealing the name of the parcel until the blend is assembled. She sources fruit from some amazing parcels in the Willamette, so it’s sort of akin to blending multiple 1er Crus in Burgundy, or a more traditional approach to Barolo. Her flagship wine Antykethra is however a single vineyard wine from the Antica Terra estate vineyard. Antykethra is a truly singular wine. I’ve never had another Pinot with quite the same structure. The tannins are almost Barolo like, and they begin to soften into a beautiful texture around 8 years old. Despite what some people say, her wines are not overripe fruit bombs, they just reflect the vintage (I feel like this is bias based on her history as a winemaker at SQN and not representative of what she makes). Her 2019 Antykethra clocked in at 12.8 ABV…

Maggie makes singular and beautiful wines and that’s really all that matters. They are definitely worth seeking out to form an opinion based on what’s in the glass and nothing more. Also, they really need 8-10 years at a minimum and people typically drink them far too young since they are “new world.” Antikythera will easily go 20 years.

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I could be wrong but I believe the reference to sourcing fruit from California is to her Lillian Syrahs as she established those relationships when she was still at Sine Qua Non. All of the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is from the Willamette to my knowledge.

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Agreed, that all read as over the top

1e2a7p

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Agree that the anti-terroir label a bit much— click bait. Looks like half her wines (listed on the AT website) are vineyard-designate. But still that’s pretty cool to declare a Willamette Valley blend as being on par or better than a vineyard designate.

Just want to point out that loads of us make several Pinots from one vineyard (I settled on 5 this year) and go through extensive barrel and cuvée trials similar to what is described. We generally have multiple blocks and clones on a single vineyard, and within a block there can be variation. Then most wine makers I know will vinify and handle élevage separately for each block/clone. Then there is the question of whether press factions are kept separate from the free run wine (my understanding is that Maggie very carefully includes the press fractions in each barrel). Finally as pointed out in the article, within each lot, barrel variation can occur for any number of reasons.

On barrel tasting and blends, I have come to rely on advice given to me to taste every barrel at least twice, and best three times, over the course of a couple of months before the blending/cuvée trials. Just to make sure the great barrels are really great over time, and other considerations (MH may do this but the author perhaps didn’t know or ask). It’s a lot of work. Then just as the writer points out, the blends are not necessarily predictable and additive, so lots of iterations are needed.

I’ll end with a Teaser: there’s some big news from AT coming soon! I don’t think it’s my place to announce it, but stay tuned. I’ll post it here if others don’t when it’s officially in the news.

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As mentioned by Wil and David, I see this in relative, as opposed to absolute terms. Whereas most high end wine producers in the U.S. and Europe emphasize the vineyard and minimal intervention, Maggie Harrison’s (along with her mentor Manfred Krankl’s) emphasis is on the winemaking, not the site. While not an absolute difference, an important and fundamental variation of emphasis - minimal vs. intensive intervention.

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I have spoken to her staff and toured the winery a few years ago— everything is immaculate and in its place— the team is very detailed oriented. But I think the main point is that she is just putting the emphasis on the resulting wines and the best possible blends. Not necessarily a statement that winemaking is more important than the site per se…

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Yes. Maggie’s mission is very much looking to make the best possible wines with the fruit she has rather than seeking to express the true terroir of a single vineyard. Nothing wrong with that. That may not be what appeals for everyone, but I think there’s room for multiple voices in wine. Maggie’s approach does come with a certain winemaker ‘fingerprint’, but even producers that want to let the terroir speak for itself tend to have a unique signature to them. Nothing wrong with either approach on my book.

Each approach may not be what appeals to some wine folks, but that’s ok. No wrong way to drink wine. Buy and drink what appeals to you.

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Agreed. I’m a total Burg geek and I love digging into the nuances of terroir, but I also enjoy Maggie’s wines and recognize the painstaking work that she puts in to achieve her own unique results. I’m glad Antica Terra exists and I’m happy to buy a few bottles every year. If anything it’s a great counterpoint to my cellar which is roughly 80% Burgundy :sweat_smile:

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Here’s the press release:

Antica Terra Acquires Keeler Estate Vineyard

In its first acquisition since its founding in 2005, Oregon’s premier winery will add 147 acres of biodynamic vineyards and native oak savannah and woodlands to their existing estate in the Willamette Valley’s Eola-Amity Hills.

This expansion allows the team most respected in the wine industry for creating bespoke luxury experiences, the room to broaden their offerings, giving rise to new, exclusive, immersive experiences unlike any other in the region or the world beyond.

Eola-Amity Hills, Oregon – July 5th, 2023 – Antica Terra is pleased to announce that it has acquired Keeler Estate, its first acquisition on record. The Antica Terra and Keeler Estate Vineyards share a fence line in the Eola-Amity Hills AVA of Oregon’s Willamette Valley, and as neighbors share profound mutual respect.

Stewardship is at the heart of this acquisition. Keeler Estate was founded as a certified biodynamic vineyard, and includes over 80 acres of native oak savannah sited on prime vineyard soil. Most wineries would clearcut to plant more vines; instead, Craig Keeler painstakingly rehabilitated the ecosystem, clearing invasive tree species and planting native companions for the oaks. These trees will remain preserved in the Oregon Oak Accord for the lifetime of Antica Terra’s ownership.

“When it came time to transact, it was important to us that the new caretaker of this place would hold the same values as us.” said Keeler Estate co-founder, Craig Keeler. “Our only call was to Maggie [Harrison] and Antica Terra. We were not interested in giving our property to a large company that might change direction from decades of work by planting wall-to-wall vines, eliminating poly-culture, or destroying the oak savannah. I believe that in this transition, our stewardship will be carried in the same manner - or improved upon - as we have done since we first broke ground.

We are honored to carry Craig and Gabrielle Keeler’s incredible legacy of work,” said Antica Terra winemaker, Maggie Harrison. “We have long been impressed with the level of care and devotion to the land evident in every corner of the estate. The rigor of biodynamic practice and their profound ecological respect have built a foundation we are endlessly grateful to be allowed to build upon.”

The expanded acreage ushers in a new era of hospitality. To explore the conceptual common thread of an expanded landscape, Antica Terra has partnered with architecture and design firm, West of West. Experiences will populate the entirety of the estate, pushing out the walls of the traditional tasting room. With the help of ORCA Living, fallen oak and oceanic rock from the landscape will be transformed into the materials for interior and exterior furnishings.

Be it a wine flight at a 200 foot table winding through the oak savannah, fine dining in a greenhouse, or a corporate event in the reimagined barrel hall, there is room for each visiting party to inhabit a private world of wild luxury.

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Let’s be clear, Maggie is appeasing her investors….

I used to sell her wines years ago, we went to pick up some wine and she was in a conference call with her main investor… we were told that call was the main priority… just seen the release prices for the At Pinot $210 anyone and the Chard $17? Wow… gotta pay for the ‘61 LDH somehow…

Sorry, it’s all bullshit and posturing, cult of personality and all, sorry if this catches some people off guard , but tons of great Pinot being made by folks that work in the dirt on a day to day basis, not anointed by Manfred.

BTW, her personal cellar in the winery is amazing…

Hey, I’m going to pour you a $400 hermitage… but my wines are over $100 a bottle on the cheap end….

Wow, just wow

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I was hoping the article was more puffery than being an actual portrait. In fact, it seems quite spot on.

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Prescient post, given recent developments.

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Is that really true?

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Good question. In France, “terroir” seems to take center stage over the celebrity winemakers you find in California. That said, you do have the late S. Rhone blender Camby and the consultant Michel Rolland who have influenced winemaking styles and achieved notoriety. My sense is that even in California, most of the celebrity winemakers tend to focus on minimal intervention and site expression. I just don’t see the overt emphasis on intensive winemaking over site by many estates excluding SQN and A-T, but there may be some other notable exceptions (Screaming Eagle?).

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In my unscientific survey, I think the vast majority of the marketing of premium and above wines suggests terroir and minimal intervention, at least in N. Cal., because it plays into the branding aesthetic and mystery. Mass market advertising even suggests that - look at the TV ads for, say, Josh Cellars, which focus on grape farmers.

Telling tourists in the tasting room, “Our winemaker loves to manipulate the sh*t out of our estate grapes” probably wouldn’t sell many club memberships…

(This is not a criticism of the marketing - just an observation)

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While I haven’t had any of Antica Terra wines, I had subscribed for a while to their “Collective”" program. It was sort of like a wine club, but with a twist - you receive a case of wines that Maggie has curated, wines that inspire her winemaking. I liked the idea of trying our wines I wouldn’t normally buy.

I discontinued after two cases as I felt like I was paying substantially more than what those wines were available in the open market. Plus a lot of the wines frankly felt like below par.

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I kind of feel the languid passivity of modern life might be related to an over abundance of overly hyperbolic media being constantly promenaded out to try and wind us up (again) and make things “legendary” so often that legendary, genius, and unicorn simply become completely meaningless…

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