MADEIRA thread

WINE TALK
41

Mark Johnson wrote:
Roy, maybe you could explain some of the terms: Bual, Sercial, Verdehlo, Malmsey

Mark, those are simply the four main noble grapes of Madeira seen in bottlings these days. From dry to sweet: Sercial, Verdelho, Boal, Malvasia. Bual and Malmsey were created spellings/nomenclature by the Brits. All of these grapes are white. It is interesting to note where these are grown on the island and at what altitude, to gain the requisite acidity. I love exploring that every May.



Hi Tom F.,

Yes, I can recommend a fine 1977 Madeira, actually two. I have had them both twice, the latter, 3 weeks ago. Cossart Gordon and also D’Oliveiras both make very solid Terrantez from that vintage, but I prefer the former to the latter, if pushed to make a purchase decision.




Nigel B.,

Good call on the Quinta do Serrado. I have a friend who owns 5+ cases (yes, I said cases!) of that 1827 and is believed to have the largest stash of it left on the planet. I’ve only had it a handful of times and have always found it excellent too.



Megan/Adam,

Madeira’s process is very similar to what we think of as pasteurization. But there are two methods of warming Madeira. Estufagem is for the inexpensive bottles like Rainwater, 3 and 5 year old Madeira too. Canteiro is a more costly and significantly longer/slower warming/aging process used for Colheita/Solera/Frasqueira (Vintage) Madeira.



Blake J.,

Although V. Sattui is not really a Madeira, it is still a VERY tasty bottle from CA which I have had early and often … mostly in the 1990s, but a few bottles in this decade too. Always loved it, but more so when it was closer to $20 than $40. It is for those that don’t love the VA found in real Madeira and a bit lower acidity level too, although I am a slut for great over the top acidity in Madeira.



Craig G.,

One doesn’t get to see enough Lomelino these days except at auction. ; p


More … soon!

42

BTW - I really like the NY Malmsey from the RWC series. I found a bottle of it in Scottsdale when I was there for a NY Bankers Assn convention and brought it to the hotel for a desert reception. It was outstanding and the bankers loved it.

43

I think of this poem/song each time I hear or see the word “Madeira”, Roy.

Madeira M'Dear - Flanders and Swann" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Have some Madeira, M’Dear !

Hank [cheers.gif]

44

Bill B.

Nice list!

I’ve never had the 1795 Ferraz Terrantez but it sounds interesting. I had the Barbeito again this past May and it was one of the better versions I’ve tried over the years. Would like to compare it to the Ferraz.

As to your mention of 1907, I couldn’t agree more. Like 1863, 1875, 1895 and a few others since … it was one of those really special vintages. I remember a bottle of that exact same Blandy’s Boal and when letting it sit open in decanter for a few days, my entire downstairs smelled like someone had brewed roasted espresso down there. Intense experience walking down the stairs and it was even better to drink. Might be my fave too of all the 1907s that are around.



Richard J.,

When you’ve had three perfect Madeiras in a lifetime you can consider yourself not only fortunate; but keeping good company. I’ve only scored one Madeira 100 points, but should have scored the 1846 Blandy’s Terrantez higher, than the 98 points I gave it. After the fact I wondered what kept me from giving it 100 points and had no good answer for that. Anyway, I hope to have another Madeira strike me like the 1802 Acciaioly, but have yet to get back to that place.




Eric I.,

If you score those two bottles, I’d be willing to open up something really crazy too in order to try the 1802 again. One can never taste that one enough.

We often times agree on Madeiras and unquestionably that 1850 D’Oliveiras was one of the finest Verdelho bottlings I have ever had too. We tried it again this past May when RJ, my brother and others came along for the tour. It never fails to impress.



Bernard R.,

I’ve had that D’Olly Moscatel a few times now and have never rated it over 90 points, but that is just me. I must admit that Moscatel is not really my favorite style/grape. I do prefer the Barbeito 1900 Moscatel though and pretty significantly to the D’Olly version in that particular vintage. YMMV. Have you tried the Barbeito? Typically I prefer D’Oliveiras better than the same grape/vintage over Barbeito, but not in this case.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<< >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


This afternoon, I opened up six bottles of inexpensive Madeiras to evaluate for my next newsletter … mostly Colheitas. As whacky as this might sound, my first sip of each was a single glass blend of all six. I know for some this sounds like blasphemy. It gives me an interesting look into the style of the producer; again I know this sounds weird to those who are Madeira purists. Then again, after lots of tastings, I’ve gone around and made blends of the leftovers with some fine results. It’s strange what some people consider fun with Madeira. pileon

45

Sadly, I have tasted few Madeiras. Fortunatelly, one of them was 1834 Barbeito Malvazia

46

David Strange,

Come on over, I have a bunch opened from yesterday.

1995, 1996, 1997, 1998 Colheitas by Justino’s and their 5 and 10 year old Reserves. Right up your alley.

Agree, these low cost Madeiras really do provide a great QPR and freshness which is fun to enjoy. Then again, some of the older Frasqueiras also pack a ton of freshness on the palate, even if the nose speaks to their antiquity.

47

I recently had a 1900 and 1965. For my taste the 1965 was better. The 1900 was interesting to taste, but not worth the price of $100 per glass.

48

Eric I.,

If you score those two bottles, I’d be willing to open up something really crazy too in order to try the 1802 again. One can never taste that one enough.

We often times agree on Madeiras and unquestionably that 1850 D’Oliveiras was one of the finest Verdelho bottlings I have ever had too. We tried it again this past May when RJ, my brother and others came along for the tour. It never fails to impress.

No need to worry Roy, I definitely will open these with those who’ll really enjoy them, yourself included! I just hope it shows as well as you remember!

49

1907 Malmsey d’Oliveira, blind at Wild Ginger, and Fred Dame called vintage and producer with 4 other MS’s at the table. Never forget it.

50

Z. Schneiner,

Yes, I was pre-supposing that these were 750 ml bottles instead of 375s. Nonetheless, not a bad price and a great way to explore a range of Madeiras for a very nominal entry fee.




John D.,

Nice to see you posting John. I can’t believe after all these years of Port & Madeira discussions you and I have never met. One day soon!

I also like the 1900 Barbeito Malvasia, a very fine Madeira indeed. I opened one just prior to asking my then fiancee to marry me. She said yes, but did not like Madeira. I still married her, but have to drink bottles by myself or with friends as she has never gained the appreciation.

You also mention the RWC New Orleans. There were two bottlings. The first was the better one and had more Terrantez in it. The second was far more Negra Mole-centric and although still quite nice, is not up to the greatness of the original bottling. So if you have those released prior to this year … you are assured of the Terrantez vs. NM bottling. In that case, we are in total agreement as that was a GREAT one for the RWC Historic Series. My next favorite is like you, the Boston Bual.




Niklas,

Good to see you here too, spreading the love for Madeira. Believe it or not, I have yet to try that particular bottling of Barbeito. Next trip this May, we’ll make it a priority. Thanks for the tip.



Benjamin,

Clams and Madeira don’t quite mix … not even fried. But maybe a Sercial with a clam bisque would pair well, but I don’t know about adding 40 of them.




Robert F.

Which of the RWC bottlings of the New Orleans do you prefer, the initial release or the current one … and why?



Jay H.,

The 1922 D’Oliveiras Boal is very sound and a bottling I really enjoy too. I remember a fine offline dinner in NYC five or six years ago with Jamie K. Ken V., and others where after dinner we went to the bar and had a 1912 and 1922 D’Oliveiras by the glass. I believe it was Montrachet (the restaurant). Very fun and prices were quite reasonable at that time.

51

I prefer the original. Reason: It’s the only one I’ve tasted.


[berserker.gif]

52

Correct answer. [winner.gif]

53

Roy,

How would you compare the Broadbent 10 or Blandy’s 15 (this winter’s house madeira over here) to the Colheita’s that you recently tried?

Thanks,

54

Hi Roy,

The bottlings I have are the originals from a few years ago. I’ve stayed away from the current bottling mostly because of the introduction of some Malvasia, which I thought might be a bit strange. I also don’t care much for the RWC Malvasia bottling, so didn’t think the New Orleans would be improved by introducing some of that wine into the blend. Now that you’ve told me that there’s less Terrantez in the new bottling, I’ll definitely steer clear.

55

John,

Unlike you, I find the iclusion of a “small amount” of Malvasia, as described on RWC’s wbsite, intriguing:

This is only the second release of this cuvée and, like the first, it is extremely limited. The first was produced in 2007, with the profits from that release benefiting renewal efforts in post-Katrina New Orleans. Like the 2007 blend, the 2010 is a mindblowing Madeira, reminding us of the great and rare Terrantezes of the 18th and 19th centuries. However, this second release could be even more interesting than the first, as it includes a small amount of incredibly rare Malvasia from Faja dos Padres, Madeira’s most historically important vineyard. This adds a fudgy, spice cake complexity to the burnt orange and grilled nut character that pervades the wine. Like Savannah, it is lightly sweet, with all the flavors focused by powerfully tangy, juicy acidity.

I’ll order a bottle, and offer a second opinion.

Best,
Bob

56

My thought was based on the assumption that the Malvasia that was being added was the same wine as they bottle in their historical series. The quote you listed indicates that this probably isn’t the case. I’ll try to get a bottle as well and render a better opinion. It sounds like a side-by-side tasting is in order!

57

Ron Freed wrote:
How would you compare the Broadbent 10 or Blandy’s 15 (this winter’s house madeira over here) to the Colheita’s that you recently tried?

I have only had precursory sips of each and tomorrow night (now that they’ve had some air time) begins the more serious evaluations. From what little I can project, the Colheitas (which are baby Vintage Madeiras) appear quite different from one another in terms of flavor profile. Having four from consecutive years … although again, just a few sips so far … have shown these are singular in style because I have a feeling that there was different grapes used in each, plus probably a good amount of Complexa and Negra Mole used. The Broadbent is a pure Malmsey at least 85% pure and along with the Blandy’s 15 … they both seem more rich. I will let you know if that is the outcome after several days with the other bottles.




John D. and Robert F.,

I think a side-by-side tasting would be extraordinarily educational, however, if I am not mistaken … when we tasted the 2nd version while at Barbeito in May, I could swear they mentioned there was a good amount of NM in the blend too.

58

I trust your memory, Roy. And I understand that Negra Mole is generally (universally?) considered an inferior variety. But that knowledge won’t influence a blind tasting, will it?

59

Roy,

Has Mannie ever published the blends of either of these cuvees? If he has, I’ve never seen it. It would be extremely helpful to the side-by-side tasting. I can’t imagine there being a concern about “intellectual property”, because RWC has the Madeira market pretty much locked in the U.S. Can we get the percentage of each grape in the blends?

JD

60

Negra Mole (old name Tinta Negra Mole since it is a red variety) is considered a “lesser” variety, but can make some excellent wines. D’Oliveria’s 1957 Old Wine is 100% NM, if I’m not mistaken, and an excellent example.

The Faja dos Padres is a fabulous,famous vinyard; at the base of a cliff on the south shore side of the Island. For years accessable only by boat, but now has a tiny, rickety elevator along the cliff face.